New Bill Kelso A-1 (seal Victory capeskin, size 44) - Part 1

[Dr H]

Here is my new Bill Kelso Type A-1 in seal 'Victory' capeskin.



The Bill Kelso Type A-1 is a custom jacket (made to individual wearer's dimensions) consequently the fit is exceptionally good - I supplied a set of standard measurements (chest, sleeve length, shoulders, front and back length) and the result is the best fitting jacket that I own. It is labelled a 44 and wears as such.

External photos were taken with weather overcast and light rain, but this is fair reflection of the colour - a rich chocolate. The closest match to the colour/weight/grain is the capeskin Doniger/McGregor A-2 (from 1942) that I owned for a while.



The hide is soft and pliable with a great smell and terrific grain - I opted for a slightly mismatched graining without too much figuring (much like the hide that I've seen in period photos and have not been disappointed. It got a little wet this morning during the photo session and it dried quickly before it was put back on the hanger.

The pattern is first class and has been modelled very closely on the images in Suit Up for the standard Type A-1 from Bill Kelso. Notable exceptions to the other commercial offerings are the depth of the waistband - proportionately a little deeper than the A-2 (and best seen in the images of Gary Eastman's A-1).





The sleeve is inset and rotated and the positioning of the grommets under the arm differs from the Eastman and Good Wear Type A-1 jackets.



The collar knit is the one that you see rarely in some of the early images of Type A-1 jackets (with a single button/button loop, more pronounced turn down and a rebated stitched line).





The tailoring is exceptional (straight and regular) and this is something that really pleases me as the A-1 is not forgiving of sloppy stitching (particularly in this triple stitched sleeve).

 

[Dr H]

You can really see this on the pocket with the double seams around the edges of pocket body and flap.




The knits are high quality - taut and with a close weave.



Attention to detail has been extremely high - all labels were newly produced for this project.



The button holes (keyhole) are very well executed and the stitching is tight and even with a well finished edge.



The jacket currently wears the lighter (honey) buttons, which look very fine, but I felt that a slightly lesser contrast would work better. It's a subtle difference - a honey (right) is shown alongside the slightly darker coconut (left) on this hide sample.



I requested a set of buttons for exchange and BK supplied this and plenty of thread to do the stitching promptly and with no complaints, which is excellent service for a finicky A-1 wearer.

The team at Bill Kelso did an admirable job and met my requirements very well without hassles. Customisation (in terms of pocket placement/pocket flap profile/colours is available of course).

You can direct questions about the jacket to Andy Falzon on the official Bill Kelso thread.

 

[Nathan Flowers]

That hide is fantastic looking.

 

[Fanch]

The A-1 looks fantastic. Would like to see pictures of you wearing it.

 

[Smithy]

What a stunner. That hide is really going to have some character once you get a bit of wear going.

I reckon that's the nicest A-1 repro I've seen. Kudos to BK, that's an absolute corker.