Opinion needed, please.

[Robert Conway]

First off I would just like to say what an amazing site this is. I've been reading the archives, for the past few days, and the amount of knowledge that is concentrated here and represented by it's members is quite amazing.

For many years I've been fairly despondent about the state of men's clothing. Nothing really fits me well (I'm a 46/48R with a 34 waist and 32 inseam, long waisted) and as we all know, in addition to all of the other deficiencies, most modern cuts fit about as well as a potato sack, regardless of how much money you are willing to spend.

In the meanwhile I would watch a movie like "My Girl Friday" and there would be Cary Grant wandering around in an outfit, which in 2006 is next to unobtainable. It really is amazing. We can put a man on the moon, but I can't go down to the local store and get a well fitting suit; something which was the norm and not the exception just 50 years ago.

So, I've resigned myself to the fact, that the only way I am going to get what I want, is to take matters in my own hand.

I believe that I have located an experienced costume maker / tailor here in Hollywood, who will be willing to make me a suit. Since actual patterns for vintage men's suits are unavailable, I plan on purchasing an example(s), that a pattern(s) can be made from. Ultimately I hope to accumulate several patterns that can be used down the road to make me a new suit as needed

For starters I would like a Windsor or Kent double-breasted suit, as was typically worn by Cary Grant, William Powell, Clark Gable etc.


I'm still doing my research and have two questions, that perhaps someone here can help me with.

A) What are the differences between a Windsor and Kent double-breasted suit?

B) Could someone please analyze this example I have found? I'm considering the purchase of this piece, to make a pattern from. It appears to be a nicely done jacket, all the way down to the skeleton lining.



Thanks in advance. I'm very glad to have found you folks.


Thanks,

Robert Conway

 

[Solid Citizen]

Period Suit

Hi Robert,

1. Buy the suit jacket from the Ebay seller, I've dealt with him & he is a good seller.

2. If the tailor you found has mens "costume'" making experience that person should be able to help you create a pattern.

3. Cary Grant was a clothes horse & bought suits like tap water & had money to put in the tap, besides being the BEST looking actor in movie history.

4. Take this jacket in #1 with pictures of the Grant & Powell suits you like to your tailor & work with him to achieve the look YOU want!!!

Peter

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Do you mean the difference between the suits the dukes of windsor/kent wore? I didn't know there was any difference in style. I believe the duke of kent just buttoned his DB suit jackets on the bottom button rather than the second button. The roll of the lapel would necessarily be different. I may be completely wrong on this point.

As for the jacket you've found. It is certainly a period peice and will probably have been well made. The skeleton lining with taped seams, the wide lapels with a buttonhole on both sides are nice indicators. What a beautiful windowpane pattern, too.

If you use it for a pattern, my personal preference would be to have the tailor put it back together again when the patterns were made (he'll have to rip it to pieces to make the patterns). Then you'll have some patterns AND a nice vintage sports coat! I hate to see these vintage peices being lost. The ones i've bought to make patterns are in unwearable state - badly sundamaged, covered in moth holes, huge rips, etc. A jacket in perfect condition i'd never cut up. These are just my personal thoughts on these matters. If the jacket isn't in my size i don't really care.

bk

 

[Robert Conway]

Do you mean the difference between the suits the dukes of windsor/kent wore?

Yes.

>I didn't know there was any difference in style. I believe the duke of kent >just buttoned his DB suit jackets on the bottom button rather than the >second button. The roll of the lapel would necessarily be different. I may be >completely wrong on this point.

I couldn't find a difference either. I thought one may have slit pockets, instead of flaps, but haven't been able to find more accurate information.

>As for the jacket you've found. It is certainly a period peice and will >probably have been well made. The skeleton lining with taped seams, the >wide lapels with a buttonhole on both sides are nice indicators. What a >beautiful windowpane pattern, too.

>If you use it for a pattern, my personal preference would be to have the >tailor put it back together again when the patterns were made (he'll have to >rip it to pieces to make the patterns). Then you'll have some patterns AND a >nice vintage sports coat!

Unfortunately it's a few sizes too small for me... It's also just the jacket. The pants and vest are missing from the set.


> I hate to see these vintage peices being lost. The ones i've bought to make >patterns are in unwearable state - badly sundamaged, covered in moth >holes, huge rips, etc. A jacket in perfect condition i'd never cut up. These >are just my personal thoughts on these matters. If the jacket isn't in my >size i don't really care.

Yes, I fully agree. If she has to take it appart, I will either have her reassemble it right away or store it and do it at a later time. I certainly will do my best to preserve it for the future.

Like you said, I have been looking for some heavily worn or damaged pieces to use as patterns. It's borderline unethical to cut up a good piece... ;-)

thanks,

Robert Conway

 

[Marty M.]

Style = SUCcess / Fashion = SUC*s

Robert,
The first thing to do is check your tailors work. Can your tailor make a garment with type of mojo. He/She is not just makeing a suit, they're makeing your peice of art. There's more to makeing a suit then just using your needle and thread. Will he make a lapel with a beautiful sweep like this garment has? Or, will he do the path of least resistence and just put a straight line lapel on? Will he do a rope shoulder like shown in the pictures? Will he use real horn buttons or use plastic buttons? Is the tailor on the same page as you? The main thing is: doe's he have Mojo?

Marty

 

[Robert Conway]

> The main thing is: doe's he have Mojo?


I think she does. She's not just a tailor, but a costume designer/manufacturer here in the movie business, with a long track record.

My day job involves a lot of art direction, so I'm good at getting the results I want from an artists. I'm also a stickler for quality...



Cheers,

Robert Conway

 

[Robert Conway]

By the way that is a very, very, very important point.

Is he/she an artist?

Making a beautiful piece of clothing is not the same, as working in a widget factory. It's that extra touch, that makes a garment come alive and not just look like a bunch of cloth, that's been sewn together.

Robert Conway

 

[Marty M.]

Mojo rising

Amen to that brother Conway.

Marty

 

[John in Covina]

Hey Robert!

First, I like to extend to you all the wishes for great success in this. The jacket you've shown is really a fine looking one, i have been keeping an eye out for a grey DB suit for a while and not really getting any good hits.

I hope you will be able to match this to a great vest and pants to come up with an extraordinary complete suit.

Please keep us posted to the details and let us know how it turns out. I also would love to know what the $ turn out to be for such a suit.

Warmest regards,