Optimo nutria natural

[gcollins]

Hey fellas:

Thought I'd share some pics and assessment of my new optimo nutria natural. Been in India for a while, so haven't had a chance to take photos.

Specs: size 7, brim 2-3/8, crown front 4", side 4-3/8. White liner, brown sweat. 1-7/8" black ribbon. Underwelted brim.

My assessment:

First, the purpose: this was to be my most flexbile hat, THE travel hat--one that I'd wear in small India villages; with suits in Shanghai jazz clubs; with more casual gear to play flute in my Irish jam sessions in Tokyo.

The felt is awesome and dense and soft--note the nice texture in the color. Hard to believe that this is the lightweight Optimo felt! Very sensibly stiff, yet soft. It's a little too fuzzy though, and I guess I thought it would be sanded or pounced a bit more as a fine custom hat. But the natural color is great, goes with anything and the color changes depending on clothes and the light source. Quite cool.

I re-bashed the pinch and front of the crown as the hat arrived with a barely noticable right side front dimple and a bit too much uncertainty in the front crown--the hat apeared as if it needed direction as to what kind of hat it should be. But it looks pretty cool now, at least I think so, and that's as important as anything else.

As my first custom felt hat, I can see the advantage of going to see the hatter yourself and getting a proper conform fitting. the hat doesn't fit the way a custom hat should fit as the crown came out a bit shorter than I would have liked and the hat feels a bit "shallow" for my head--A good wind in Seoul would blow this baby right into the Han River. But differences in expectations should be no surprise when you order a fine hat over the phone--and your head has not met the hatter in person.

The craftsmanship and stitching are first rate--very even, uniform and with fine materials all around. Love that floating bow!

Nonetheless I like the hat, but nothing worse than a hat you love that doesn't fit--and you're in China thousands of miles away from the hat maker. But I can get to the US and Chicago at some point soon, so I'll take it to Graham to see if he can re-work it a bit. And, as has been said many times, Graham is a superb guy and we have many common interests to work on in Asia. He'd have no issue if I were to return this hat and have him re-work it or exchange it. But I'll wear it and wait till I can get to chicago for a proper fitting.

But anyway, it is what it is. Here are some pics.

 

[gcollins]

From the front

 

[Nathan Flowers]

That's a neat looking hat. I'm sorry to hear about the fit, and you're right: Graham can and will make it right for you.

As for the fuzziness, that's intentional, and something that Graham always does with that color. I think he just likes how it looks that way. I am sure you could have it pounced finer, as the other hats I have from him are not fuzzy at all.

How does it look on you?

 

[gcollins]

Hi Zohar:

Thanks for personal mail reminding me to post about this hat! You're a good cat.

I've been in some seriously exotic places lately--even for me--and trying to get off the booze for months (leading to a disagreeable edginess you have to have noticed!)...so I somehow forgot to get some photos.

Other than my ugly mug, the hat is looking good...but it's not a safe hat for travel due to the fit issues. So I'll need to get to Chicago soon, or it will just sit in its box for an e-bay auction in 30 years. I'll change my avatar to one with this hat on so you can check it out.

Regards,
G

 

[fedoralover]

I too have a couple of Optimo's and like you had a bit of a problem with getting the exact fit for my head. What I did was to go to a hardware store and get some thin foam insulation strips that you would put around doors or windows. You can cut the width down to a narrower strip and then put it under the sweatband. I have done this on many hats I have bought off ebay and were a bit loose. Also you will find that wearing them in the hot weather and sweating some in them will shrink them up a bit as well. If you have access to anything like that where you are, you might give it a try and see how it works.

regards fedoralover

 

[schwammy]

Nice looking chapeau, and good photos as well. I can see how lightweight that felt is. Looks like real 1940s stuff. I know what you mean about a too-shallow-feeling hat, though. I have yet to get a hat that really fits my oddly-shaped, too-big head. I have ended up having to remove the liner and hatband from every fedora I've ever owned to get a proper fit.

We will all have to make the pilgimage to Chicago at some point, I suppse. Most of us won't have to come as far as you will.

 

[Canadave]

Great looking hat! What do you mean by "floating bow"?

David

 

[STHill]

I agree. That's a great looking lid. I love that tight front pinch and the kind of rakish way the hat flows from front to back.

 

[gcollins]

Originally posted by fedoralover
What I did was to go to a hardware store and get some thin foam insulation strips that you would put around doors or windows. You can cut the width down to a narrower strip and then put it under the sweatband. I have done this on many hats I have bought off ebay and were a bit loose.

regards fedoralover

Good idea, Fedoralover! I've used types of foam for years in hats a bit too large, but it's not that the size of the hat is too large, it's more like it doesn't fit enough of my head--but I'll try anyway and let you know.

David, the bow is cool--you can't see the stitches on the bow externally, so it apprars to just float on the hat. Nice touch.

ST, yep, me too. I like a nice rakish look myself, but most I've seen with that effect have a tapered crown, which this one does not. The hat I like is a 40's bogie that mated with an Indy.

 

[Matt Deckard]

The natural is supposed to be a bit fuzzier... even the swatches I have seen have it fuzzier than Graham's other felts.

Hat looks nice. did you crease the crown or did Graham?

 

[Art Fawcett]

Great looking hat GC. Optimo is setting the standard IMHO for quality and is a great target to try to reach in my own work. I'm absolutely certain that Graham would be happy to modify the hat and if you sent a pic of it on he would surely know what to do to make it right.
Enjoy

 

[gcollins]

Hi fellas:

Graham did in fact crease the c-crown, but I re-did the front crown creases and pinch. Credit to Graham for the crown. I just messed with steam to give it a bit more character.

Thanks for the comments on the natural fuzziness. Now I understand, and id does in fact have more texture than other felt colors, which is cool. And as I mentioned above, but worth repeating: I feel that it actually changes color in different lights and clothing choices. Quite amazing. the chameleon of hat felts. And no dye whatsoever to bleed.

G

 

[SHARPETOYS]

Gcollins wrote

Hi fellas:

Graham did in fact crease the c-crown, but I re-did the front crown creases and pinch. Credit to Graham for the crown. I just messed with steam to give it a bit more character.

Thanks for the comments on the natural fuzziness. Now I understand, and id does in fact have more texture than other felt colors, which is cool. And as I mentioned above, but worth repeating: I feel that it actually changes color in different lights and clothing choices. Quite amazing. the chameleon of hat felts. And no dye whatsoever to bleed.

G



G,
When i was in Chicago i saw your felt body and Graham told me i could have it like yours or he would pounce it smooth. I liked the felt like yours more.! I think its a persons taste.

As far as the way he does the bow and the ribbon where you don't see the stiches i like that as well.

I told Fedora about that and he makes his hats without the stitch showing as well i should know i have 2 of them and 1 more on the way.

I got the same color as yours from Fedora in pure beaver.

My hats from Art have the hidden stitch also.

I did see one of those so called 1000X a friend bought and the you could see the sewing on the ribbon.

I think for a truly custom hat all of them should be made like yours.

G, you have a nice looking lid and i hope you have years of good service from it.

 

[gcollins]

Hi sharpeytoys!

so you got to chicago to visit Optimo. That had to be fun. It's a wonder you got out of there with only one hat.

You must have had one of the last natural bodies from last year's lot...or did Graham have some new ones in this year's felts? what does he tell you about the composition of the new felt he has? Still 49/49/2?

I agree on that color--goes with anything and I like the texture. And the hairier, less pounced felt is a little more casual I find. If I were to get this hat again, I would have to ask for it to be pounced like a dress hat. But how was I to know the first time he would not pounce it like a dress hat? I'm in china and try to get things right the first time--troubling to be sending back and forth.

With that natural hat, after wearing for quite some time, the best things about that hat are the color, floating bow and the underwelt--did you get a welt? Adds a lot of body to the brim.

Unfortunately, the sweat assembly was not so solidly sewn, and the sewing has come loose. I also had the hat re-blocked by Art with the block of your smoky blue beauty--still one of the best hat designs I see these days, especially with the slightly contrasting ribbon and bound edge. Graham needs that blocking of Art, just awesome.

I'd love to hear how you find the difference between the Optimo felt and that in 100% beaver from Fedora? I have a couple of beaver felt hats, and they feel so much different than Graham's blend. One might think to find a good beaver body and then take it to graham to make a hat.

I'm soon going to be trying out--as part of my Pilgramage series in search of the perfect hat--a belly beaver from Gladhatter. I kind of used your smoky blue as a model.

Hope you enjoy that new hat, and show be some pics, baby!

Regards,
G

 

[SHARPETOYS]

I can't judge a Optimo beaver since i never bought one.

The beaver Fedora made (two of them) I'm very proud of them and they are a first class hat to me.

Steve charges $225.00 that includes vintage ribbon,roan leather sweats and satin liners. A perfect IJ block, one was open crown.

The hat was all hand made by Steve( not made by another hatter)

Could have three beavers from Steve for price of one 1000X from other seller.

Happy Happy hat owner.