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Please recommend YOUR custom hat maker

Naphtali

Practically Family
Messages
760
Location
Seeley Lake, Montana
For a pair of built-to-order 100 percent beaver fur felt fedoras, identical except for colors, please recommend several makers.

I make the assumption that no one will recommend a maker whose quality is variable or poor, nor one whose dependability is questionable.

1. Regarding pricing, if possible try to identify each maker's starting price for a hat described. A price range is better.

2. Try to include makers who do not do this work full time.

3. I prefer responders with first-hand knowledge of the maker(s) recommended -- that is, responder owns the hat about which he writes.

4. I prefer location in USA.

5. If there is anything I've neglected to ask for, please respond as though I asked.
 

pointystuff

New in Town
Messages
20
hat maker

Naphtali said:
For a pair of built-to-order 100 percent beaver fur felt fedoras, identical except for colors, please recommend several makers.

I ordered a fedora from Adventurebilt; it just arrived today, in fact.
It's excellent--couldn't be more pleased.
Good luck,
Brad
 

SHARPETOYS

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,425
Location
Titusville, Florida
Real soon!!

I spoke to Art today and it should be just a few weeks. He told me to go ahead and mail the hats I wanted done.:) :) :) :) :) :)

His address is

Art Fawcett
P.O. Box 334
Butte Falls
Or. 97522
Ph. 541-865-7878
 
SHARPETOYS said:
I spoke to Art today and it should be just a few weeks. He told me to go ahead and mail the hats I wanted done.:) :) :) :) :) :)

His address is

Art Fawcett
P.O. Box 334
Butte Falls
Or. 97522
Ph. 541-865-7782

Darn you you sneaked in under the wire. I have some to go over too. Butte Falls here they come. I can just see him burried under a pile of boxes now. :p

Regards to all,

J
 

Naphtali

Practically Family
Messages
760
Location
Seeley Lake, Montana
. . . About felt thickness . . .

Several of you have mentioned differences among felt thicknesses and weights. For example, Adventurebuilt's felt is identified as thinner or lighter weight than Peters brothers.

I understand high density is desirable for felt. How does density correlate with thickness or weight among the hatters mentioned? Among these hatters, is concern about density of beaver fur felt worth the effort?
***
I understand Jim of JPDesigns in Fort Worth is about to enter the custom hat business. The forum has verified his reputation as a good craftsman. I kind of like the idea of helping a good workman get started. Does anyone have his web address? Does anyone know where on the spectrum of density/thickness/weight of fur felt he will be?
***
The hat colors I want are taupe (I think a dark gray-brown, or "Feldgrau") and a dark gray one notch less intense than charcoal gray. Is either of the colors a problem to obtain in 100 percent beaver fur felt?
 

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
Messages
10,045
Location
A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
For modern hats... I still have to side with Optimo in Chicago... they are the closest to vintage in my opinion. Soft and able to take a beating.

They don't droop in the rain and they can take being rolled up.

Graphiteroll1-vi.jpg


Grapjite2-vi.jpg


IMG_1213_edited-vi.jpg
 

Naphtali

Practically Family
Messages
760
Location
Seeley Lake, Montana
Jim Pierce's initial reply to my query

I wrote to Jim Pierce of JPDesigns, Fort Worth, with my preferences. This is his reply. Note what he has to say about felt weights.
*****************REPLY FOLLOWS*********REPLY FOLLOWS*************
I have just emailed my body supplier and asked if I can add to my latest order.

aside from what you have told me I would just need your size and how stiff you like your hats befor I place the order.

the hats I am going to be making are going to be a little differant than most. One of these differances will combat on of your concerns. While a teardrop crown may accelerate wear(it has more to do with handleing and how a person grabs their hat) the somwhat thicker felt I am going to use will negate part of this effect. A normal dress hat felt weight is somewhere between 4 and 5 onces. a western hat is 8 onces. This hase to do with the weight of a certain surface area of felt. I will be using a 6 once body. It gives just enough to the felt to make it last much longer without making it too heavy. As far as discoloration, I don't have a problemn with it on my hats. It goes back to how a hat is grabbed, and body chemisty. If a person body produces a lot of natural oils, and tey touch there hat a lot, they will develope dark spots on the felt. If their body chemistry is very alkali (or they sweat a lot), they might actually develope light spots, from bleaching. It all depends on the person, and really all comes back to handling. If a person grabs their hat by the crown, the hat needs to be shaped so that it can be grabbed ther and held onto (or pulled on to remove from the head) without squeezing the felt too hard, or pulling it out of shape. No teardrop block is shaped for this. A teardrop crown that is going to be grabbed by the crown always needs to be adjusted by hand after being blocked.

As far as price, I belive my pure Beaver hats are going to run approx. $400. I know this is higher than others, but it has to do with the felt weight. I am using bodies which in the western market will sell for $800 and up.

Please let me know if yo have any other questions. I will write again as soon as I hear from my body supplier.

Thank you
Jimmy
 

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
Messages
10,045
Location
A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
Mycroft said:
Wow, Optimo's can be crushed?!?

The light weight ones can be rolled... it has been crushed too though i don't want to talk about it.

I will say that if I didn't have vintage, Optimo would be the hat I grabbed for because they can take the abuse and still be dressy. It's not a cowboyt hat, though they are tough dress hats.

I only role the light weight Optimos.
 

Nathan Flowers

Head Bartender
Staff member
Messages
3,652
I crushed a lightweight Optimo this past weekend when I was camping. It was in my tent, and I accidentally rolled onto it during sleep. It looked awful for about five minutes till I reset all the creases. Now it looks good as ever.
 

gdkenoyer

Familiar Face
Messages
81
Location
Colorado
were it not for your 100% beaver requirement, I'd recommend that you look at the Camptowns (from what I read - no personal experience *yet*). This link would get you started.
 

Strider

One of the Regulars
Messages
255
Location
.
Personally, I recommend Steve "Fedora" Delk. He has made me two fine quality hats, and can make them in any number of shapes, tailored to fit your individual tastes. Also, his customer service is second to none, and the man is very friendly and outgoing.
 

Mycroft

One Too Many
Messages
1,993
Location
Florida, U.S.A. for now
Matt Deckard said:
The light weight ones can be rolled... it has been crushed too though i don't want to talk about it.

I will say that if I didn't have vintage, Optimo would be the hat I grabbed for because they can take the abuse and still be dressy. It's not a cowboyt hat, though they are tough dress hats.

I only role the light weight Optimos.

Oh, I see, what makes them so tough?
 

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