Regular or Long?

[randooch]

Simple question for someone here: I am wondering if the difference between, say, a 44R and a 44L includes a difference in sleeve length, or just coat length.

I've been buying a few vintage cashmere jackets, all 44R, and sometimes the sleeves are long enough, sometimes not, with no evidence of alterations. Maybe I should be buying 44L's anyhow, because I'm 6'3".

Any guidance would be appreciated!

 

[TexDavid]

I'm 6'3" as well and I wear a 46 long. You will notice the difference in a long size in both the sleeve length and the length of the body of the jacket. How to tell a good fit in a sports jacket or suit coat:
1.) Sleeve length: Put on a long-sleeve shirt and your jacket. As you hang your arms loosely at your side, you should just be able to see about 1/2 inch of your shirt sleeve extending past the sleeve of your jacket. Sleeves too short - you look like a Vegas card dealer. Sleeves too long - you look like you borrowed your older (and taller) brother's jacket for the evening!

2.) Jacket body length: Put on your jacket and extend your arms loosely at your side. Now curl your fingers at the knuckles. You should just be able to grasp the bottom of your jacket body in your curled fingers.

Hope this helps!

David

 

[randooch]

Thanks, Tex -- I just tested my other jackets (coats?) and the length seems just right. I appreciate the tutelage.

 

[John in Covina]

Measurements and sizes don't always correlate as you would think. If you had a bunch of different make jackets all the same size, you wil find that the fit will be different. Same with shoes!

I believe that the vintage experts have a series of measurements of sections of a suit jacket or sports coat for their personal fit.

Knowing those, they can make an inquiry about a coat requesting the item be measured in a very specific manner.

They give the seller the list of critical measurements: "from here to here" over several sections or parts of the jacket or coat.

If the seller measures rightly the buyer will know if it's going to be a good fit, too small or can be altered, taken in, etc.

 

[cookie]

Simple question for someone here: I am wondering if the difference between, say, a 44R and a 44L includes a difference in sleeve length, or just coat length.

I've been buying a few vintage cashmere jackets, all 44R, and sometimes the sleeves are long enough, sometimes not, with no evidence of alterations. Maybe I should be buying 44L's anyhow, because I'm 6'3".

Any guidance would be appreciated!

If you are 6'3" you need long arms size (L) but will have no trouble finding your cash roll....lol lol

 

[Slim Portly]

Typically the difference in Short/Regular/Long in a suit is going to effect only the sleeve length (shoulder to cuff) and jacket length (collar to bottom) and usually not by very much. What won't be effected is the chest, shoulder, and waist fit, and also the pant size won't be effected either.

I wear a 44 Regular and I always have to have the sleeves shortened on my jackets, by sometimes only as much as a half-inch, which usually isn't enough of a difference for me to get a 44 Short.

 

[Mike in Seattle]

Exactly - the listed sizes are just sort of a guideline, or starting point. It all depends how it looks on you and how it fits you.

 

[Tomasso]

the pant size won't be effected either.

As you go up from Short through Extra Long the waist won't change but the rise and inseam will increase.

 

[Tomasso]

2.) Jacket body length: Put on your jacket and extend your arms loosely at your side. Now curl your fingers at the knuckles. You should just be able to grasp the bottom of your jacket body in your curled fingers.

It seems that this little tidbit of misinformation will not die. :eusa_doh: (Sorry, Tex. )

Jacket length should be fitted to one's body, regardless of their arm length as men of the exact same height can have arm length variances of several inches.(I won't even get into torso/leg length ratio variances.)

(Note: Once one has determined their proper jacket length, they can then use the point where the jacket hits their hand as future reference).

As simply stated as possible: A jacket should, at the very least, cover your rear end.

 

[der schneider]

sleeve length is as personal as your shirt sleeve length.
coat body should cover your a_ seat.

If you are over 6 foot tall you should look at long sizes
if you are under 5' 6" you may want to look at short sizes.

the rise of the pant is an important part of a good fit.
the rise is the difference between the outseam and inseam 11 inches is pretty standard for a regular size suit

standard drop suits are 6 inches athletic cut drops are 8 inches
the drop is the difference between the chest measurement and the waist measurment a common 46 chest suit will have a 40 inch waist on the pant.

fit the coat in the shoulders and chest, you can alter the waist and length
as well as tweeking the collar.

Pants can be taken in easier than letting out. You should be able to let out a waist 1.5 -2 inches you can safely take in most pants around 3 inches with out messing up the look of the pant. if you take in the waist that much you will usaully need to adjust the seat and thigh some as well.

 

[MisterGrey]

Something else to consider is that if buying OTR, most reputable suit manufacturers will not finish the pants; they will go down past your feet and be unhemmed. This way you can customize them to whatever length you find comfortable. A proper fitting jacket is more important; the pants are easily modifiable, and even meant to be tinkered with to a degree.