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Fine Creek Leather

sweetfights

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,221
Location
Canada
All valid points @Carlos840 . . . if you intend to use your jacket on a motorcycle and functionality on a motorcycle is a relevant consideration. On the other hand, if one has no intention of using their jacket on a motorcycle, the foregoing analysis is not material and aesthetic personal preference prevails. Ever since a near death accident over thirty years ago, I have declined to ride a motorcycle. Therefore, motorcycle functionality is irrelevant to me.

Ps: Your jackets look great @Carlos840!

It is not getting any easier here in Canada riding. Dirty bastards everywhere with zero consideration for riders.
 

Motocann

One Too Many
Messages
1,586
Location
San Francisco
I agree. I have tried on several FCL jackets and the patterns did not work. I just ordered another (without trying it on). It may be in the Classified section next week if it doesn't fit.

The Flat Head jackets never fit me. The shoulders were far too broad in relationship to the chest. I have the same problem with their shirts.

I have had very good luck with RMC jackets, both leather and non-leather.

I have yet to find a Freewheelers leather jacket that fits me. Some are too short in the body or the sleeves. Others are too narrow in the chest, or too broad in the shoulder at the correct chest measurement. Freewheelers non-leather jackets are a different story. I have three that fit well.
The eternal search for the perfect jacket!
 

Bender

One of the Regulars
Messages
108
Thanks,

Something else they did to that jacket, was make the wrist openings huge.
All 10 of my Vansons have wrist openings that are between 4" and 4.5" measured flat side to side when zippered shut.
With that mesurement i can comfortably fit shorty gloves inside the sleeve opening and get a tight seal, or feed the bottom of my sleeve inside a gauntlet gloves and get a perfect seal.

The commando wrist openings are 5.5" across, that is IMO huge. There is never a need to unzip the gussets, when you do they are literally funnels:

jjpFlBp.jpg

F4w0WxV.jpg


With 5.5" across, the sleeve is too big to seal above a short glove, and too bulky to fit inside a gauntlet glove.
It's all good if you live in California and ride in nice warm weather, but to me the wrist are a killer in the bad weather i get around here, i can never seal my wrists and the cold always comes in.

Why you ask?
I am 99% sure they did that so people can put the jacket on and off whilst wearing thick watches without having to open and close the zippers, as well as being able to zip the sleeve shut above a watch. If you look at the pics of the Butterscotch guy, he is wearing huge watches on most pics of him wearing the commando...
Once again they sacrificed on the bike functionality just for ease of life off the bike.

Again, on my custom commando i had them remove 2" from the wrist circumference, bringing it down from 5.5" to 4.5" across, like my other vansons.
I can't wear a thick watch with it, but i can ride my bike....
Yeah, I love the whole uber-high-end bespoke leather jacket company thing, but I wouldn’t ride any of mine. Vanson for me, all the way. They are actually built for being on the bike, not merely looking like you might be on a bike... In 1963... while looking intensely into the distance.

Speaking of sensible modern bike jackets, and bringing back the earlier debate about brand/build quality... I have to say, my current Vanson is every bit as nicely constructed as my Lewis Leathers.

I think it just goes to show that it’s perhaps less about the brand, and more about the particular people responsible for building the jacket having a good day or a bad one.

My Vanson is actually a special build for Union Garage, so maybe they pulled out all the stops on these or something... but it’s gorgeous. Stitching is immaculate, panels are absolutely symmetrical and perfectly matched... The leather is even a little nicer than the standard Vanson Competition Weight hide. I mean, it’s definitely the same stuff, it just appears they went through their hides until they found a few particularly nice ones for these jackets. Zero imperfections, and a nice even grain is present (most of the Comp Weight doesn’t have very visible grain).

It’s a nice jacket off the bike without the armor in, as well. I mean, definitely a purpose-built bike jacket with armor pockets, so it’s never going to have the ultra slim silhouette of, say, a Board Racer... but it’s not bad.
 
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BloodEagle

A-List Customer
Messages
435
Location
UK
Here's a couple more pics of my FCL Leon Custom for any interested parties. It's a size 44, and I'm 6'2, and I feel it fits really well, and as a bonus is supremely comfortable. The measurements as per the websites don't tell the full story with this particular jacket - I was sure it would be too long in the body or the arms too short, but it turns out to be neither (for my tastes at least). I dont ride a bike or any of that stuff and Im mostly concerned with it looking and feeling good, so whether this would fit the bill for a motorcyclist I have no idea. Apologies for the poor quality of some of the pics, but hopefully they give the general idea.
IMG_20210113_095559.jpg
IMG_20210113_095650.jpg
IMG_20210113_100016.jpg
 

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Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,920
Location
London
Here's a couple more pics of my FCL Leon Custom for any interested parties. It's a size 44, and I'm 6'2, and I feel it fits really well, and as a bonus is supremely comfortable. The measurements as per the websites don't tell the full story with this particular jacket - I was sure it would be too long in the body or the arms too short, but it turns out to be neither (for my tastes at least). I dont ride a bike or any of that stuff and Im mostly concerned with it looking and feeling good, so whether this would fit the bill for a motorcyclist I have no idea. Apologies for the poor quality of some of the pics, but hopefully they give the general idea. View attachment 300463 View attachment 300464 View attachment 300466

Rickenbacker 4001 and Gibson Thunderbird, a man of taste i see.
 

sweetfights

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,221
Location
Canada

dannyk

One Too Many
Messages
1,812
Yeah, I love the whole uber-high-end bespoke leather jacket company thing, but I wouldn’t ride any of mine. Vanson for me, all the way. They are actually built for being on the bike, not merely looking like you might be on a bike... In 1963... while looking intensely into the distance.

Speaking of sensible modern bike jackets, and bringing back the earlier debate about brand/build quality... I have to say, my current Vanson is every bit as nicely constructed as my Lewis Leathers.

I think it just goes to show that it’s perhaps less about the brand, and more about the particular people responsible for building the jacket having a good day or a bad one.

My Vanson is actually a special build for Union Garage, so maybe they pulled out all the stops on these or something... but it’s gorgeous. Stitching is immaculate, panels are absolutely symmetrical and perfectly matched... The leather is even a little nicer than the standard Vanson Competition Weight hide. I mean, it’s definitely the same stuff, it just appears they went through their hides until they found a few particularly nice ones for these jackets. Zero imperfections, and a nice even grain is present (most of the Comp Weight doesn’t have very visible grain).

It’s a nice jacket off the bike without the armor in, as well. I mean, definitely a purpose-built bike jacket with armor pockets, so it’s never going to have the ultra slim silhouette of, say, a Board Racer... but it’s not bad.
I’ve been saying this a lot lately it seems ha. But totally agree. Most Vanson’s can and should be ridden on a bike. But that aside Vanson to me is the best dollar value company. So don’t get me wrong other companies make beautiful stuff. Fantastic stuff. Stuff I drool over. What I mean is when you buy a Vanson they are for the money exactly what you expect and want. The value of the jacket equals the amount you’re spending. At a certain point to me the extra dollars start having a diminishing return on the actual jacket. Jackets are worth whatever people are willing to spend. I’m not going to debate costs. A ton goes into that calculation and I wouldn’t ever judge the companies choice to charge that; nor whether someone should buy a 200 dollar jacket or a 2,500 jacket. I just find the price point of Vanson in that 500-1,000 dollar range to be the best for that price range. That’s for brand new. Cause their could be jackets new that cost 3,000 but being sold used for 800. In that price range direct from the maker or retailer is what I mean. You know exactly what you’re going to get. You know exactly what to expect. Ok like 99% of the time haha. Every maker has off days, a flawed stitch or bad batch of leather etc... everyone does at some point. I just have yet to find a jacket maker that so consistently gives me exactly what I’m expecting based on what I pay. To me they just always give me what I think it is I’m getting for tang cost. In any case that’s me and I am fully acknowledging that is my opinion and based on my buying/selling/trading history. I may have just been lucky with all my Vanson history. And this thread was originally about FCL so I’m going to leave my comment here and move on.
 

ksozay

One Too Many
Messages
1,071
Location
Seattle
I have now amassed a number of FCL jackets and really enjoy wearing them casually. That said, no way would I ever consider riding my motorcycle wearing one of these jackets. Just my personal choice.

As Carlos mentioned, Vanson makes a pretty decent jacket for riding. My preference for street riding has been Dianese and Klim for off-road. Both jackets offer the type of protection I'm looking for, but there are a ton of different options/makers to choose from.

Like Aero, and even Lost Worlds, I prefer to wear most of my jackets off the bike. FCL makes a pretty comfortable, fashionable jacket for my body type which is a pretty standard off-the-rack 40.
 

Coke20x

New in Town
Messages
40
Location
USA
@Superfluous
Thought I might get your opinion on something. Have been reading your posts on Fedora Lounge for several years now and quite respect your thoughts and insight. I'd also seen photos of you wearing that Himel Frobisher, which is a gorgeous jacket, by the way, and it looks great on ya.

I've been selling off a few things including an ELMC Winward that wasn't fitting as well as I'd like and, aside from a nice roughout 3sixteen x Schott collab jacket, I don't currently own any other leather jackets. Trying to see if it might be possible for me to have just one really great leather jacket. (Of course, then, it would have to be black though I do somethings like that dark brown seal shinki Himel creates with). After getting such a jacket, I might unplug myself from these forums, instagram, other social media, and from retailer emails so that I can just enjoy that one jacket and stop obsessing about jackets I don't own. I'd like to stop amassing more shit than I need and just have that one. Is this possible? Would this make me happy? maybe. Probably would make the wife happy. HA! J/K. She doesn't know what kind of money is spent on this hobby (I'm including also my obsession with Iron Heart and other types of selvedge).

Anyway. I'm considering owning a simple single rider and I much like your Frobisher. I can also see, on the other hand, that you have an immense appreciation for Fine Creek Leathers. I'm not quite sure what you feel about the new Alonzo jacket but I'd imagine you might quite like it as it seems your style... ?? If you had to do it over again and pick only ONE single black single rider jacket which would it be... the Frobisher or the FCL Alonzo. If you can try to not factor in your personal involvement in convincing Himel to develop this jacket as part of his line up that might help to alleviate any bias. lol.

I'd also thought of the IHJ-54 from Iron Heart and really like that bi-swing and ability to move those arms around. It looks comfortable and maybe it would be more comfortable than the trend of vegetable-tanned jackets that have been trending on the retail shops I review. What's your thought of that IH chrome-tanned jacket in comparison to the 2 aforementioned jackets. Side note, I've also quite liked the ELMC Highway Star jacket from afar but I feel I read on here some issue someone had with fit which, from my experience, is true given the tendency towards short sleeves (not good as I am 6'3" tall). Perhaps that jacket isn't even in the same category though it does appear that people have an genuine appreciation for the craftsmanship of Eastman/ELMC.

If you've time to respond to me then you would have my sincere appreciation.

Anyone else have thoughts and would like to throw in that would be awesome too!!
 

dannyk

One Too Many
Messages
1,812
@Superfluous
Thought I might get your opinion on something. Have been reading your posts on Fedora Lounge for several years now and quite respect your thoughts and insight. I'd also seen photos of you wearing that Himel Frobisher, which is a gorgeous jacket, by the way, and it looks great on ya.

I've been selling off a few things including an ELMC Winward that wasn't fitting as well as I'd like and, aside from a nice roughout 3sixteen x Schott collab jacket, I don't currently own any other leather jackets. Trying to see if it might be possible for me to have just one really great leather jacket. (Of course, then, it would have to be black though I do somethings like that dark brown seal shinki Himel creates with). After getting such a jacket, I might unplug myself from these forums, instagram, other social media, and from retailer emails so that I can just enjoy that one jacket and stop obsessing about jackets I don't own. I'd like to stop amassing more shit than I need and just have that one. Is this possible? Would this make me happy? maybe. Probably would make the wife happy. HA! J/K. She doesn't know what kind of money is spent on this hobby (I'm including also my obsession with Iron Heart and other types of selvedge).

Anyway. I'm considering owning a simple single rider and I much like your Frobisher. I can also see, on the other hand, that you have an immense appreciation for Fine Creek Leathers. I'm not quite sure what you feel about the new Alonzo jacket but I'd imagine you might quite like it as it seems your style... ?? If you had to do it over again and pick only ONE single black single rider jacket which would it be... the Frobisher or the FCL Alonzo. If you can try to not factor in your personal involvement in convincing Himel to develop this jacket as part of his line up that might help to alleviate any bias. lol.

I'd also thought of the IHJ-54 from Iron Heart and really like that bi-swing and ability to move those arms around. It looks comfortable and maybe it would be more comfortable than the trend of vegetable-tanned jackets that have been trending on the retail shops I review. What's your thought of that IH chrome-tanned jacket in comparison to the 2 aforementioned jackets. Side note, I've also quite liked the ELMC Highway Star jacket from afar but I feel I read on here some issue someone had with fit which, from my experience, is true given the tendency towards short sleeves (not good as I am 6'3" tall). Perhaps that jacket isn't even in the same category though it does appear that people have an genuine appreciation for the craftsmanship of Eastman/ELMC.

If you've time to respond to me then you would have my sincere appreciation.

Anyone else have thoughts and would like to throw in that would be awesome too!!
What’s your size and that Schott-3Sixteen rough out.....want to trade/sell? Haha. I’ve been eyeing that one for forever and rarely comes up in my size and when it does people never really want to trade or work anything out. I do hope you find the jacket you’re looking for though. I would highly recommend finding your “one” jacket and then never looking again. Just disappear as you said. Because if you stick around here you’ll never be satisfied and will be spending way too much time and money. Get a great jacket and just wear it. That’s the best thing you can do.
 

Superfluous

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,995
Location
Missing in action
@Superfluous
Thought I might get your opinion on something. Have been reading your posts on Fedora Lounge for several years now and quite respect your thoughts and insight. I'd also seen photos of you wearing that Himel Frobisher, which is a gorgeous jacket, by the way, and it looks great on ya.

I've been selling off a few things including an ELMC Winward that wasn't fitting as well as I'd like and, aside from a nice roughout 3sixteen x Schott collab jacket, I don't currently own any other leather jackets. Trying to see if it might be possible for me to have just one really great leather jacket. (Of course, then, it would have to be black though I do somethings like that dark brown seal shinki Himel creates with). After getting such a jacket, I might unplug myself from these forums, instagram, other social media, and from retailer emails so that I can just enjoy that one jacket and stop obsessing about jackets I don't own. I'd like to stop amassing more shit than I need and just have that one. Is this possible? Would this make me happy? maybe. Probably would make the wife happy. HA! J/K. She doesn't know what kind of money is spent on this hobby (I'm including also my obsession with Iron Heart and other types of selvedge).

Anyway. I'm considering owning a simple single rider and I much like your Frobisher. I can also see, on the other hand, that you have an immense appreciation for Fine Creek Leathers. I'm not quite sure what you feel about the new Alonzo jacket but I'd imagine you might quite like it as it seems your style... ?? If you had to do it over again and pick only ONE single black single rider jacket which would it be... the Frobisher or the FCL Alonzo. If you can try to not factor in your personal involvement in convincing Himel to develop this jacket as part of his line up that might help to alleviate any bias. lol.

I'd also thought of the IHJ-54 from Iron Heart and really like that bi-swing and ability to move those arms around. It looks comfortable and maybe it would be more comfortable than the trend of vegetable-tanned jackets that have been trending on the retail shops I review. What's your thought of that IH chrome-tanned jacket in comparison to the 2 aforementioned jackets. Side note, I've also quite liked the ELMC Highway Star jacket from afar but I feel I read on here some issue someone had with fit which, from my experience, is true given the tendency towards short sleeves (not good as I am 6'3" tall). Perhaps that jacket isn't even in the same category though it does appear that people have an genuine appreciation for the craftsmanship of Eastman/ELMC.

If you've time to respond to me then you would have my sincere appreciation.

Anyone else have thoughts and would like to throw in that would be awesome too!!

@Coke20x , In my personal experience, the Himel Frobisher pattern is the best fitting half-belt available today. I have two and they are my best fitting jackets. Himel really nailed this pattern. If I had to choose one half-belt, to the exclusion of all others, it would definitely be the Frobisher.

The FCL Alonzo, like many other FCL patterns, has somewhat wonky measurements. It is very long and narrow. According to Self Edge, the size 40 has a 44 chest, 17 shoulder, and 27 length. That is a long tube. Before I found the FCL Tyler -- which has better proportions -- I tried on several FCL jackets, including the Alonzo (I think), that did not fit me. I don't know how you are shaped, but the Alonzo is made for a string-bean.

Your desire to secure one all-purpose jacket and thereafter unplug from TFL is a noble pursuit. That said, I have only seen one person -- @A-1 -- successfully accomplish this. For most, it is a case of:

giphy.gif
 

dannyk

One Too Many
Messages
1,812
@Coke20x , In my personal experience, the Himel Frobisher pattern is the best fitting half-belt available today. I have two and they are my best fitting jackets. Himel really nailed this pattern. If I had to choose one half-belt, to the exclusion of all others, it would definitely be the Frobisher.

The FCL Alonzo, like many other FCL patterns, has somewhat wonky measurements. It is very long and narrow. According to Self Edge, the size 40 has a 44 chest, 17 shoulder, and 27 length. That is a long tube. Before I found the FCL Tyler -- which has better proportions -- I tried on several FCL jackets, including the Alonzo (I think), that did not fit me. I don't know how you are shaped, but the Alonzo is made for a string-bean.

Your desire to secure one all-purpose jacket and thereafter unplug from TFL is a noble pursuit. That said, I have only seen one person -- @A-1 -- successfully accomplish this. For most, it is a case of:

giphy.gif
Yup! I hope A-1 is out there living his best life as they say. Not giving a single fu** about TFL or oz measurements or patterns or hide and finish. Be free @A-1!!
 

Coke20x

New in Town
Messages
40
Location
USA
@Coke20x , In my personal experience, the Himel Frobisher pattern is the best fitting half-belt available today. I have two and they are my best fitting jackets. Himel really nailed this pattern. If I had to choose one half-belt, to the exclusion of all others, it would definitely be the Frobisher.

The FCL Alonzo, like many other FCL patterns, has somewhat wonky measurements. It is very long and narrow. According to Self Edge, the size 40 has a 44 chest, 17 shoulder, and 27 length. That is a long tube. Before I found the FCL Tyler -- which has better proportions -- I tried on several FCL jackets, including the Alonzo (I think), that did not fit me. I don't know how you are shaped, but the Alonzo is made for a string-bean.

Your desire to secure one all-purpose jacket and thereafter unplug from TFL is a noble pursuit. That said, I have only seen one person -- @A-1 -- successfully accomplish this. For most, it is a case of:

giphy.gif


lol. wardrobe addiction is real.

Your response sounds pretty convincing to me. I've been burned a bit from FCL with that lightweight Leon and their weird sizing. Enough of that crap.

Probably should do this Himel while we are still very fortunate to have this incredible creator around... in the North American continent of all places. I might otherwise look back, decades from now, and regret not having ordered at a time when he would very likely be directly handling and creating this work of art.

Ok. That will probably be where I go from here. Thank you, @Superfluous

Suppose I'll soon start a dialogue with Himel's company and start moving in this direction. Time to clear the closets again! lol. Wonder how long production might take. Would be great to have it done by next fall but whatever. I've got these denim jackets to break-in during the meantime.

And @dannyk . My Roughout jacket is a size XL. I'm on the fence in regards to selling until I actually get ahold of a Himel but I might be open. I dunno. I had picked this one up from grailed and, from what I believe, it was on there for a while so perhaps it wasn't your size else you might've grabbed it.
 
Messages
10,196
Yup! I hope A-1 is out there living his best life as they say. Not giving a single fu** about TFL or oz measurements or patterns or hide and finish. Be free @A-1!!

Probably for the best. The build quality of his DD would have been shredded to bits. He may not have come out on the other side. He did better than even he probably realizes.
 

dannyk

One Too Many
Messages
1,812
lol. wardrobe addiction is real.

Your response sounds pretty convincing to me. I've been burned a bit from FCL with that lightweight Leon and their weird sizing. Enough of that crap.

Probably should do this Himel while we are still very fortunate to have this incredible creator around... in the North American continent of all places. I might otherwise look back, decades from now, and regret not having ordered at a time when he would very likely be directly handling and creating this work of art.

Ok. That will probably be where I go from here. Thank you, @Superfluous

Suppose I'll soon start a dialogue with Himel's company and start moving in this direction. Time to clear the closets again! lol. Wonder how long production might take. Would be great to have it done by next fall but whatever. I've got these denim jackets to break-in during the meantime.

And @dannyk . My Roughout jacket is a size XL. I'm on the fence in regards to selling until I actually get ahold of a Himel but I might be open. I dunno. I had picked this one up from grailed and, from what I believe, it was on there for a while so perhaps it wasn't your size else you might've grabbed it.
Not my size. I’m a small. If you do stick around you’ll hear me complain enough about my size. I’m a like a 16 year old kids size with the mind of a 34 year old adult male. It does not make getting new jackets easy. I do ok with vintage as people were smaller back then. But anything after like 1970 it gets harder and harder to find used in my size.
 

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