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jackets you designed thoughts and concepts and ideas

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
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6,711
Location
East Java
I think it is a good time to start this thread now, since lately we have more and more custom jackets very successfully done here by the recent development in new jacket makers that open door for you playing the role in designing your own dream jackets.

So please share your experience, your dream, concept, realization, and in retrospect, what element you would try again better, and what mistake you have done.
 

navetsea

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Messages
6,711
Location
East Java
I start, since joining here 7-8yrs ago I always like the idea of mc jacket, but at the time I was heavily into center zip 2 chest pockets all symmetrical look, can't really see how a jacket wildly non symmetrical could work on me. last few years I get closer and closer to my probably final jacket, and then it has to be an eventual mc cross zip.

So I've been trying to find balance in asymmetrical form, both in look and weight of the two front panels when worn open or close.
so here is the latest idea I have, bringing back the similar patch pocket I find very useful and help balancing the wear to the left side (right hand side), so hopefully both panels would crease and and wear feel more symmetrically... if that make any sense at all.
shield-pocket-cross-v01.jpg

def love the longer cuff zip, so I would do that again now more on the top and in contrasting exposed zip tape, same thing goes to right slant chest pocket, however the main zip would be tonal (black).
above the slant pocket I add narrow chest pocket to balance the look and wear and function as pen or glasses pocket. Handwarmers is more 45 degree since I use it for quick storage, covid mask, usb stick and keys, etc.

material wise, I think I will stick to natural vegtan again, but this time I will try to pigment coat it black myself, in diluted black so probably semi translucently, and I will make the belt loop, patch pocket myself with 3mm hide and slick the edges. the belt is still work in progress, I want sturdier belt on the side and back, but around the buckle it should be thin and soft enough to coil over itself, or hang more naturally.

hem length is probably similar to my current cross toggle, but since the tip come to a point and zipped & weighed down by the belt, it would not sticking forward like my nat cross toggle's

any input and thought from veteran crosszippers ? it would probably be my ultimate goal jacket, my post covid jacket:). thanks!
 
Messages
16,405
I occasionally try to come up with something but always fail. I guess I'm just no good at it, despite my obsession with leather jackets.

Your Perfecto looks good. Great, even! Reminds me tiny bit of something by Lee Trevor, similar pocket setup, top sleeve zips, etc.

What I would recommend is that you get rid of snap-on belt loops as it's a pointless idea on any leather jacket - Never saw any practical purpose behind the idea, especially if the belt didn't feature its own loops - and probably why very little jackets them done that way. And I personally would also delete that tiny chest pocket as it just clogs what is otherwise very clean front and is ultimately pretty useless addition to have right next to regular chest pocket, which can just as easily fit any of the items you carry. Especially if you angle it a bit more, perhaps so that it'd match the angle of a hand-warmer.

What are those snaps on the belt, on each side?

Regarding belt; in my experience, if it can be removed, it will remain removed. Forever. I never deliberately carry a belt on any of my leather jackets that can fit it. No idea why but that's why I prefer fixed belt as I'm not given any choice in the matter which in turn simplifies things.

Lastly, add Lewis Leather collar snap! It's a nice little design detail, always neglected on US Perfectos.
 

navetsea

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6,711
Location
East Java
shield-pocket-cross-v01r1.jpg

thanks Monitor, regarding belt it was a mistake I forgot to fix from mirroring half the jacket to the left ( I didn't manually draw the left sleeve so I mirrored the image the belt end thing is no supposed to be there but there is a snap to snap back the belt end to itself.
 
Messages
10,200
I love this jacket. Make me one!

I would delete the small horizontal chest pocket, or maybe move it to somewhere on the left sleeve. Then the slanted chest pocket I would make larger, move it up and position it horizontally. JH1 style.

Belts are awesome but can be a pain when not buckled. Perhaps consider a snap to keep the buckle from flapping around?

Otherwise, I wish I could draw and do what you do. Put idea to paper and then to leather. Awesome. I would buy this design in a heartbeat and look forward to seeing your project come to life.
 

lina

Practically Family
Messages
973
Location
Washington DC
I've posted a lot over the past three years or so about my Dave Sheeley custom jacket and probably most here have seen it, so I'll only say a few words here. I've always like button up leather jackets, and I tried an Aero, but the fit was not quite perfect and the buttons kept breaking. I had seen a vintage Sears Topline jacket that I liked a lot, and then the contemporary Freewheelers Switchyard. I combined aspects of both, added pocket ideas from Terry Mitchell's vintage Rough Wear jacket, and sent the ideas to Dave, who I knew had built some great jackets for others on the board. He gave me some feedback on my ideas and sent some leather samples, and he added to the design his own very nice halfbelt action back. I found some Pendleton plaid wool lining on the Ebay for it, which I sent to Dave. We ended up with a very cool jacket to my mind, showing the influence of those precursors but unique in the end result.

Here's a link to my original post about the jacket:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-new-dave-sheeley-custom-jacket-lots-of-pics.91707/

And following are pics of my jacket, the Sears and Freewheelers jackets, and Terry's Rough Wear. Apologies to those who have seen or heard all this before...

PB023215 (2).JPG

PB023217 (2).JPG

sears button jacket 1.jpg

Freewheelers switchyard coat.jpg Terry's rough wear.JPG
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,711
Location
East Java
I've posted a lot over the past three years or so about my Dave Sheeley custom jacket and probably most here have seen it, so I'll only say a few words here. I've always like button up leather jackets, and I tried an Aero, but the fit was not quite perfect and the buttons kept breaking. I had seen a vintage Sears Topline jacket that I liked a lot, and then the contemporary Freewheelers Switchyard. I combined aspects of both, added pocket ideas from Terry Mitchell's vintage Rough Wear jacket, and sent the ideas to Dave, who I knew had built some great jackets for others on the board. He gave me some feedback on my ideas and sent some leather samples, and he added to the design his own very nice halfbelt action back. I found some Pendleton plaid wool lining on the Ebay for it, which I sent to Dave. We ended up with a very cool jacket to my mind, showing the influence of those precursors but unique in the end result.

Here's a link to my original post about the jacket:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-new-dave-sheeley-custom-jacket-lots-of-pics.91707/

And following are pics of my jacket, the Sears and Freewheelers jackets, and Terry's Rough Wear. Apologies to those who have seen or heard all this before...

View attachment 313720

View attachment 313721

View attachment 313722

View attachment 313723 View attachment 313724
I rembember this custom jacket, i think he makes really cool curved look on the collar lapel and pocket flaps, that a stealth action back all the way to full width of the back, how do like that feature over time, how does the back creases or does it get caught on things?
I like the subtle waist tapering on your jacket too, how does the corner buttoned flap? is the pocket wide enough for it to work as it supposed to?
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,711
Location
East Java
I love this jacket. Make me one!

I would delete the small horizontal chest pocket, or maybe move it to somewhere on the left sleeve. Then the slanted chest pocket I would make larger, move it up and position it horizontally. JH1 style.

Belts are awesome but can be a pain when not buckled. Perhaps consider a snap to keep the buckle from flapping around?

Otherwise, I wish I could draw and do what you do. Put idea to paper and then to leather. Awesome. I would buy this design in a heartbeat and look forward to seeing your project come to life.
Thanks man, oh noo the small pocket get disliked:eek:, hmm i will think about this. It might look like a clutter. My thinking behind it is I'm trying to make a chest section balanced between the left and the right in how they would crease when being worn, i will come back with v02, last 2 days been tweaking this and not putting any work on the commissions... so will come back after i deal with some of the pages. Thanks
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,711
Location
East Java
I blackened out the jacket more to quickly assess the silhouette and contrasting zip placement
I dropped the shoulder slope and hem more, and incorporate pocket bag that mimics the patch pocket on the other side and applied to the input from @Monitor, and @ jmax
shield pocket cross v01r1 inputs.jpg

again I repeat, while this is my drawing, this one or any of my other I posted here I see it as community project I took many references from photos and catalogue picture shared here while not directly remember which part I borrow but I always get inspired by interesting things I've seen, so if anyone want to try to order it through any makers who open to new design feel free to do so, as long as not for business purpose. I would welcome beta testers :D
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,711
Location
East Java
@navetsea, I am with Jmax. I love the design. I am a pocket guy. I would try and keep the little horizontal pocket, especially if it has a purpose. I would keep the belt also. It just adds to the M/C vibe.
thanks man, I personally like that small pocket haha also an excuse to put on rivets there matching the other side:D. the real cargo bay pocket is below the pectoral, the zippered pocket is where I have my interior pockets usually at, can carry a lot of stuff without the jacket look stuffed from outside, I think most interior pockets are in that area.
 

red devil

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Messages
3,814
Location
London
Late to the party but I have to admit not liking that mini pocket either, sorry :oops:

I would put instead some sort of metal ornament. I think you design is very balanced and I would easily order it as is overall. But at the same I would say don't try too much for balance, the charm of a cross-zip, at least to me, is that it is asymetrical.

If it were me, I would also probably put the zippers on the under side and put a few studs in front. Always fun to add studs :D
 

Riu

Practically Family
Messages
703
Location
UK
I think it is a good time to start this thread now, since lately we have more and more custom jackets very successfully done here by the recent development in new jacket makers that open door for you playing the role in designing your own dream jackets.

So please share your experience, your dream, concept, realization, and in retrospect, what element you would try again better, and what mistake you have done.
Great idea, hoping to join you with some designs :)
 
Messages
16,405
Good thing you've ditched that small pocket, seriously. Only cops carry pens in their leather jackets and that's been sorted out by a pen holder on the inside of the jacket.
And I've found that angled chest pocket is by far the best best place for glasses on a Perfecto, as they sit firmly secured at the bottom of the zipper and don't slide sideways as they would on a horizontal pocket. Plus you can always fit them inside the pocket.

Another idea - Why not have the belt insertable behind the back panel, like on an early Sears Oakbrook or Sugar Cane jackets?
20200208-130123.jpg
 

roadking04

Practically Family
Messages
938
Location
The Rock 'n Roll Capital
^^^ I am actually going with that concept with my custom JL. I got the Idea from Aero's King of the Road jacket. I don't really like the look of 3 twisted belt loops in the back. Also don't want the studs wearing out/scratching seats and chairs (I'm not sure if they do or not).
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,737
Location
London, UK
View attachment 313575
thanks Monitor, regarding belt it was a mistake I forgot to fix from mirroring half the jacket to the left ( I didn't manually draw the left sleeve so I mirrored the image the belt end thing is no supposed to be there but there is a snap to snap back the belt end to itself.

I really like this. As others have noted, the sunglasses pocket above the chest pocket is a bit fiddly. Perhaps a leather loop instead that could be used just to slip a leg through? I'd want to keep the well away from the zip on the chest pocket as that could cause scratching to lenses.

The jeans-style pocket on the other side is nice, that would be great for stowing gloves if actually in use as a motorcycle jacket.

I like them but I love detachable shearlings better for sure. Two for 1 jacket! That's a nice looking minimalist cross zip D pocket. Is this your next project?

I think a lot of us round here would prefer the excuse to have two jackets.... :p My issue with the removable version is that they tend to either be prone to riding up, or need excessive studding... (That said, I keep meaning to pick one up for my Schott 618 to try it on that. I do like the look, very Johnny Thunders). Given though I'm not at the stage of having other leathers for warmer days, I'd like a fixed mouton with a Winter liner inside too.

Late to the party but I have to admit not liking that mini pocket either, sorry :oops:

I would put instead some sort of metal ornament. I think you design is very balanced and I would easily order it as is overall. But at the same I would say don't try too much for balance, the charm of a cross-zip, at least to me, is that it is asymmetrical.

If it were me, I would also probably put the zippers on the under side and put a few studs in front. Always fun to add studs :D

I'm wary of studding on a metal ornament of some sort lest it catch and tear the leather, or pull out and leave extraneous holes. Also not so much a fan of logos. That said it could be cool to make it like the eyelets patch for a police leather, and then a range of badges and bits could be created for wearing in it - an accessory people could change out as the mood takes.

Were I designing an idealised take on the cross-zip, I'd like to give it sleeve zips like the Durable - nice and long. Aside from the occasional replica of Brando's jacket, that's a zip-style nobody seems to be doing now (I supposed it does create extra work and expense without much market demand?), but it's got a great, distinctive look. With a shorter zipper, I'd be inclined to go gusset-free for a lighter, Summer jacket. Unlined would be fun; that's one thing I've never owned in a leather and would be open to, a nice, unlined goat with a bit of body to it, like the goat Aero use.
 

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