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Footwear to go with our jackets

ABCD

I'll Lock Up
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7,710
Corthay Paris, bespoke Oxfords.

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dudewuttheheck

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Messages
4,543
Grain is really low density on the left boot across the entire vamp as soon as I put them on. Not loose grain territory I think? but makes it really uneven with the right boot.

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It looks like loose grain to me, especially on your left boot. I can't feel it, but it looks like loose grain. Even if it is not technically loose grain, it's damn ugly. This is an issue with Onderhoud. He doesn't click anywhere near as well as Flame Panda for example.
 
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ABCD

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,710
It looks like loose grain to me, especially on your left boot. I can't feel it, but it looks like loose grain. Even if it is not technically loose grain, it's damn ugly. This is an issue with Onderhoud. He doesn't click anywhere near as well as Flame Panda for example.
What is loose grain and how can the maker / clicker spot it? Is this not something that only appears after the shoe has been worn?

(I've never seen something like this on my shoes / boots but maybe that's because I only wear dress shoes?)
 

matchankh

One of the Regulars
Messages
123
It looks like loose grain to me, especially on your left boot. I can't feel it, but it looks like loose grain. Even if it is not technically loose grain, it's damn ugly. This is an issue with Onderhoud. He doesn't click anywhere near as well as Flame Panda for example.

FP is a lot of more selective and use the leather wastage to make small leather goods to sell locally. Meanwhile Onderhoud wastes only 10-20% of his leather (He mentioned it in one of his ig post). That's why FP consistently puts out boots with good density hides and Onderhoud could be hit or miss.

Luckily Rizky understands my concern and agreed to a remake. I dont mind the grain being loose on the shaft as it is covered by jeans anyway but its across the entire vamp.

He also said the batch he received from Maryam was bad and he won't use this leather (or at least this batch) from now on.
 

matchankh

One of the Regulars
Messages
123
What is loose grain and how can the maker / clicker spot it? Is this not something that only appears after the shoe has been worn?

(I've never seen something like this on my shoes / boots but maybe that's because I only wear dress shoes?)

Im by no means an expert like @dudewuttheheck but my guess would be when clicking if the maker stick with the centre part of the hide the density would generally be good but if you start using the outskirt of the hide more then there might be a problem?

Also I think you maybe can feel the difference by touching the hide. Loose hide will feel softer I guess? The left boot with loose grain i have feels softer and actually more comfortable to break in.

But I could be dead wrong.
 

Mich486

One Too Many
Messages
1,689
On the loose grain topic… that’s not something to worry about in terms of structural integrity of the boots? Am I right?

I have it on at least a pair of boots and thought it looked cool but yeah I wouldn’t want it to compromise the integrity of the shoe.

I wouldn’t want it on a pair of calfskin dress shoes or cordovan boots but imho on this kind of boots isn’t a massive deal breaker. I understand though if someone isn’t happy.
 

Bfd70

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5,400
Location
Traverse city
I can live with loose grain on the vamp (though at a certain price I shouldn’t have to) if it’s that way on both boots, but when the left and right don’t match it’s an absolute deal breaker.
 

Tom71

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3,945
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Europe
Im by no means an expert like @dudewuttheheck but my guess would be when clicking if the maker stick with the centre part of the hide the density would generally be good but if you start using the outskirt of the hide more then there might be a problem?

Also I think you maybe can feel the difference by touching the hide. Loose hide will feel softer I guess? The left boot with loose grain i have feels softer and actually more comfortable to break in.

But I could be dead wrong.

I had this on a pair of Wolverine’s. Appeared out of nowhere after a few wairs. No difference in feel, and it didn’t develop further. I don’t mind it at all. Yeah, it’s not perfectly matched, but it looks natural. Still good boots for the money.
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
The pictures are after wearing them for 6-8 hours. It seems like the batch of black maryam Rizky received has similar problems and he told me he cant do the remake using the same leather as he cant guarantee it will be better
wow, that's not a whole lot of wear. I received mine in May so hopefully that Maryam batch is good. maybe go black shinki horsebutt? that will be cool but you may have to pay for more. is rizky asking you to send your boots back? hopefully he still lets you keep it. hopefully it's just aesthetics and doesn't affect the boot construction.

Lovely! Wish they wouldn’t cost that much over here. Have had two Vibergs over the years and loved both!
I also don't want to buy new viberg horse **** since it costs a lot but I got these on a trade so I'm happy to get it. They make the slip ons that I think looks really cool and I hope to try that out one day.
 

matchankh

One of the Regulars
Messages
123
wow, that's not a whole lot of wear. I received mine in May so hopefully that Maryam batch is good. maybe go black shinki horsebutt? that will be cool but you may have to pay for more. is rizky asking you to send your boots back? hopefully he still lets you keep it. hopefully it's just aesthetics and doesn't affect the boot construction.


I also don't want to buy new viberg horse **** since it costs a lot but I got these on a trade so I'm happy to get it. They make the slip ons that I think looks really cool and I hope to try that out one day.

I don’t have to send them back until I receive the remake. I don’t think Rizky has ever stock shinki horsebutt, only shell cordovan.

Also he doesn’t have anything in black at the moment except this batch of Maryam which he won’t use again. He offered me the hand dyed black option from the other 3 leathers he has right now. Badalassi cognac, Olive (Like the matcha core sagara) and 1071 Maryam. I would prefer the 1071 dark brown as I’m not that into the boot changing color too much after wear but I’m a little scared of Maryam after this lol He told me he would inspect if the 1071 is good on Monday and let me know.

From him not stocking much leather I suspect He might not be offering mto option anymore (slots are closed this year anyway) which he mentioned before on ig.
 

Jin431

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,912
Location
Bay Area CA
I don’t have to send them back until I receive the remake. I don’t think Rizky has ever stock shinki horsebutt, only shell cordovan.

Also he doesn’t have anything in black at the moment except this batch of Maryam which he won’t use again. He offered me the hand dyed black option from the other 3 leathers he has right now. Badalassi cognac, Olive (Like the matcha core sagara) and 1071 Maryam. I would prefer the 1071 dark brown as I’m not that into the boot changing color too much after wear but I’m a little scared of Maryam after this lol He told me he would inspect if the 1071 is good on Monday and let me know.

From him not stocking much leather I suspect He might not be offering mto option anymore (slots are closed this year anyway) which he mentioned before on ig.

that's good atleast you can still wear the boots so you'll know if there's anything you'd want to adjust as far as sizing/details goes when it's time for the remake to get made

that ***** there's no black shinki horse **** and that he doesn't have any other black leather to choose from although that hand dyed dark brown Maryam horsebutt will be cool if there are no issues with the leather. I hope it works out well and there will be no more issues later on.

I know right I was hoping he would agree for another MTO request from me but no luck lol maybe next year.
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,543
What is loose grain and how can the maker / clicker spot it? Is this not something that only appears after the shoe has been worn?

(I've never seen something like this on my shoes / boots but maybe that's because I only wear dress shoes?)
I don't handle much leather before it's on boots or jackets so I wouldn't actually be the best person to ask. However, I would imagine there must be a way to tell because there are lots of makers that basically never put out stuff like what you see above. White Kloud leather always looks perfect. He is incredibly selective. Flame Panda is good at it too as are Clinch.
 

barnabus

One Too Many
Messages
1,852
Location
Britain's oldest recorded town
Bit of advice needed please:

My eye has been taken by some Grinders Camelot boots. Down at the budget end of things, I know, but I really like the classic WWII styling. Look;

grinders-camelot-cs-black-leather-buckle-biker-steel-toe-goodyear-welted-boots-p10810-55379_medium.jpg


But I've never owned Grinders before. Can anyone with any experience of the brand give me a clue how generous their sizing is, please?

I tend to be an EU44, lately, but something tells me Grinders might size big.

TIA.
 

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