Questions about the Buzz Rickson "Greyhound" pea coat from HPA

[ton312]

I'm a gnats nut from ordering one of these from HPA. I wonder if anyone here has one and can speak to the weight and quality of the wool? I know these are melton wool and not kersey, like the early originals (of which I have two). Being on the spectrum as I am, I need to know about this Buzz, so there will be some jackets of mine for sale in the classifieds as these aren't cheap and I don't need to stuff anymore **** in my closet. If you have pics of yours or general comments about these and how they feel next to the originals, I'd love to see and hear them!

 

[Daniel Veit]

I second that question.

I have trouble finding a vintage peacoat that would fit me.

I am about 6,3 feet tall with long Arms (26,5 to 27") but with narrowish shoulders (~17,5").
I hope that HPA might be able to help.

 

[Aloysius]

I very nearly bought one of these until I reminded myself I have a fantastic Ulster coat that serves similar purposes. Beautiful jacket, especially this prewar model.

 

[ton312]

I very nearly bought one of these until I reminded myself I have a fantastic Ulster coat that serves similar purposes. Beautiful jacket, especially this prewar model.

I'm stuck and need convincing I don't need this based on the two originals I have....But with the actual naval pieces, I always have to make some concession on condition. with the Buzz....it's pure mint.

 

[Observe]

Ever since I bought a surplus (don't think it's old enough to call vintage) USN peacoat, I have not been able to justify buying another. This is a great looking coat though, and certainly piques my interest.

 

[El Marro]

I can’t speak to their pea coat but I have bought two Buzz Rickson MA-1s and an L-2A through HPA and they are truly top notch.
If I were you, I would give Charles at HPA a ring and put your questions to him directly. I have called him a couple times before purchasing jackets, and always found him to be very well informed and a pleasure to speak to.

 

[ton312]

I can’t speak to their pea coat but I have bought two Buzz Rickson MA-1s and an L-2A through HPA and they are truly top notch.
If I were you, I would give Charles at HPA a ring and put your questions to him directly. I have called him a couple times before purchasing jackets, and always found him to be very well informed and a pleasure to speak to.

Yeah I wanted to sniff around before bothering Charles....I'm just really curious as to how these feel next to the originals, which are a different type of wool. I want to know how close Buzz came to replicating the dense kersey wool of the originals, before the navy went to melton.

 

[Aloysius]

Yeah I wanted to sniff around before bothering Charles....I'm just really curious as to how these feel next to the originals, which are a different type of wool. I want to know how close Buzz came to replicating the dense kersey wool of the originals, before the navy went to melton.

This is a good thing to ask Charles. (His father was a vet–which is why he was part of the historical advisor role along with Charles for the film (which he got to see before he passed)–and he is a militaria collector separate from his business.)

 

[Aloysius]

I’ll add that I own a different wool jacket from Buzz (if you count wool-lined flight jackets, I own several but I mean a strictly wool jacket) and it really was a fantastic fabric, wool gabardine in that case. I loved tailoring long before I got into workwear or militaria type jackets so that’s something I’m very picky about.

 

[Sloan1874]

I literally took delivery of a vintage navy issue pea coat about an hour ago. I took a bit of a flyer on it as i was working off the measurements on the ebay seller, but i was really lucky and it’s an aazing bit of kit: 70s issue, kersey cloth with pewter buttons. It’s a bit crumpled and in need of an airing but it’s as close to NOS as I’ve got with vintage purchases. Cloth is pristine, pockets intact, all original buttons, no real signs of wear etc. Fit is just right, loose enough for a jumper, sleeves long enough to keep the wind out.
it’s arrived in a tiny box so I’ve hung it in the conservatory to relax and air for a couple of days. Cost me £90 but i hate to imagine what the Japanese repro equivalent would cost!

 

[ton312]

I literally took delivery of a vintage navy issue pea coat about an hour ago. I took a bit of a flyer on it as i was working off the measurements on the ebay seller, but i was really lucky and it’s an aazing bit of kit: 70s issue, kersey cloth with pewter buttons. It’s a bit crumpled and in need of an airing but it’s as close to NOS as I’ve got with vintage purchases. Cloth is pristine, pockets intact, all original buttons, no real signs of wear etc. Fit is just right, loose enough for a jumper, sleeves long enough to keep the wind out.
it’s arrived in a tiny box so I’ve hung it in the conservatory to relax and air for a couple of days. Cost me £90 but i hate to imagine what the Japanese repro equivalent would cost!

HPA has them for around $600 shipped.
I have these two, both Kersey and nice fits:
WWII 10 button (like the buzz) has some exterior condition issues which I addressed.

50’s 8 button, mint exterior but buttons were not terribly well aligned when reattached at some point in its life:

The allure of the buzz is that I won’t have to make any concessions in terms of fit or condition. It also looks like
They really nailed the 10 button pattern, which I absolutely prefer.

 

[Boyo]

The quality of Buzz Rickson stuff is top tier.. if you nail the fit you'll have the jacket you're after...
I also wouldn't be surprised if the wool BR used isn't just as good or better then kersey

 

[Grayland]

Just trying to convince you to keep what you have:

I gave thought to buying a Pea Coat through HPA as well. I had been considering it before the Greyhound version even became available. I just couldn't convince myself that a reproduction (which BR goes out of their way to copy) could be significantly better (and 2 to 4 X as expensive) than an original.

As I mentioned in the Pea Coat thread, I was lucky to pick up a (pretty damn mint) 1966 USN Pea Coat for $114.99. It was delivered Tuesday and I haven't even worn it yet, but after I wear it a few times, it won't be mint. Same with the $520 + $55 shipping BR Greyhound Pea Coat - it won't be mint after a season of wear. As as clothing nerd, I also love having something made when I was 2.

Originals in great condition are getting tougher to find, but they are out there. You're bigger than me and that means your selection is narrower. You have a couple already, but I find that sizing down one works best for me. I'm a 40 and an original Pea Coat in 38 works best for me. Fits me trim but I still have plenty of room for a sweater. As a Army veteran, it almost pains me to say that the Navy really had it going on in winter jackets (Pea Coats and the N-1 are the shi%$#).

Also, if Buzz Rickson had access to the original 32-oz Kersey wool, don't you think they would have used it? They settled for 36-oz Melton.

 

[ton312]

Just trying to convince you to keep what you have:

I gave thought to buying a Pea Coat through HPA as well. I had been considering it before the Greyhound version even became available. I just couldn't convince myself that a reproduction (which BR goes out of their way to copy) could be significantly better (and 2 to 4 X as expensive) than an original.

As I mentioned in the Pea Coat thread, I was lucky to pick up a (pretty damn mint) 1966 USN Pea Coat for $114.99. It was delivered Tuesday and I haven't even worn it yet, but after I wear it a few times, it won't be mint. Same with the $520 + $55 shipping BR Greyhound Pea Coat - it won't be mint after a season of wear. As as clothing nerd, I also love having something made when I was 2.

Originals in great condition are getting tougher to find, but they are out there. You're bigger than me and that means your selection is narrower. You have a couple already, but I find that sizing down one works best for me. I'm a 40 and an original Pea Coat in 38 works best for me. Fits me trim but I still have plenty of room for a sweater. As a Army veteran, it almost pains me to say that the Navy really had it going on in winter jackets (Pea Coats and the N-1 are the shi%$#).

Also, if Buzz Rickson had access to the original 32-oz Kersey wool, don't you think they would have used it? They settled for 36-oz Melton.

View attachment 478823

You have illuminated all the yins and yangs swirling around in my head! I did send a message to Charles. I’m eager to hear his perspective!

 

[willyto]

HPA has them for around $600 shipped.
I have these two, both Kersey and nice fits:
WWII 10 button (like the buzz) has some exterior condition issues which I addressed.
View attachment 478802
50’s 8 button, mint exterior but buttons were not terribly well aligned when reattached at some point in its life:
View attachment 478801
The allure of the buzz is that I won’t have to make any concessions in terms of fit or condition. It also looks like
They really nailed the 10 button pattern, which I absolutely prefer.

I wouldn't bother buying a new one if you already have two that look fantastic.

We usually crave what we don't have but in this case I don't believe it will be any better than an original issue. Also it's worth mentioning that you will worry all the time wearing the $600 peacoat while wearing the originals which were cheaper you don't have to worry that much.

I undertand the alure but unless the condition was really terrible on the originals I wouldn't buy a new one.