What Jacket Are You Wearing Today?

[ton312]

TMC "Code 33 Durable" repro. The "Johnny" jacket...

Thanks to @Mr.Leong and @soundwavvves for the inspiration and the later for helping out with my questions!

This is a size 44, and I suppose I could easily get away with one size up too. Chest, shoulders, sleeves are all fine, and I can zip it up without an issue, but it´s mighty short.
Fit ranges somewhere in between my two other "Black Crosszips", The LL Lightning (which is a bit tighter) and the Schott 613SH (which is a bit looser/longer).

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Looks like a perfect fit aside from the length. Personally, I can't wear jackets above my belt. Looks great open. The only way to remedy the fit closed is with a pair of Steve Erkels jeans. It looks like the back dips a bit?

 

[Atg_Stl]

This exact problem happens to me on my veg tanned lambskin Schott P213. If it gets water on it, the droplets stain the leather black and they don't go away for... Weeks if not longer.

I hate it. Stays at the back of the closet unless it's 100% sunny and dropped Schott down to a B tier maker for me.

Have never had that issue with any of my Thedi or Aero, aniline veg tanned.

In my experience those spots don't really go away- but they are right on the surface, so you can kind of brush the leather or scratch it in that area and then run over it with your thumb to help blend.

I agree with Tom. If you wipe the jacket down (or simply wear in rain) it will even out a lot. Your jacket reminds me of the Mr Freedom sunshine finish. Will get better with rain and UV exposure.

Thanks guys. I assumed that sun exposure would help lighten the stains so it's been getting regular exposure to the elements. The hide is definitely darkening and turning into a nice, caramel brown that I'm excited about, but the stains seems to be sticking around longer than I would've thought. I may give consideration to wiping the entire jacket down if they don't lighten up, but that feels like a last resort at this point.

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

Thanks guys. I assumed that sun exposure would help lighten the stains so it's been getting regular exposure to the elements. The hide is definitely darkening and turning into a nice, caramel brown that I'm excited about, but the stains seems to be sticking around longer than I would've thought. I may give consideration to wiping the entire jacket down if they don't lighten up, but that feels like a last resort at this point.

Sounds like you're overthinking all this... just let the jacket evolve bro
this tends to happen to lighter-colored veg tan hides anyway

I get that it's a new jacket and the first sign of imperfection is always the hardest... just let it be, trust me, after leaving it alone for a while you won't even think about it. Had the same experience with some boots that I got when it rained unexpectedly.

 

[Atg_Stl]

Sounds like you're overthinking all this... just let the jacket evolve bro
this tends to happen to lighter-colored veg tan hides anyway

I get that it's a new jacket and the first sign of imperfection is always the hardest... just let it be, trust me, after leaving it alone for a while you won't even think about it. Had the same experience with some boots that I got when it rained unexpectedly.

I feel ya. Certainly not concerned, just not used to seeing this type of reaction on any of my other pieces and curious if this is the norm. Seems like it is and it's part of the evolution process, which is all good!

 

[Kevin O'Sullivan]

I feel ya. Certainly not concerned, just not used to seeing this type of reaction on any of my other pieces and curious if this is the norm. Seems like it is and it's part of the evolution process, which is all good!

It's not the norm, and it's definitely annoying. But it is a risk with very light or natural aniline finishes for sure.

Grab a Thedi for the next one and then it comes with the relicing (or vintaging, whatever you want to call it) and you will never worry about it. I got a used Thedi shawl for $750, which is in the range of standard used for them, and it's been an amazing jacket through all weather.

 

[Buick]

Wearing this Aero Highwayman today, from 2014. Love the colour and the FQHH is less shiny and somehow softer than my black Aero. What do you think about the sleeve length? Personally I often fold back sleeves on denim jackets etc so they are more out of the way, so I quite like these just coming to the top of my hand - but I wonder if it is seen as an ‘incorrect’ fit? (I’m not particularly concerned either way - just interested in perspective on this). Thanks!

 

[Bfd70]

That is where i prefer it

 

[Monitor]

Wearing this Aero Highwayman today, from 2014. Love the colour and the FQHH is less shiny and somehow softer than my black Aero. What do you think about the sleeve length? Personally I often fold back sleeves on denim jackets etc so they are more out of the way, so I quite like these just coming to the top of my hand - but I wonder if it is seen as an ‘incorrect’ fit? (I’m not particularly concerned either way - just interested in perspective on this). Thanks!
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I think it's good. Sleeve length is very subjective and depends on the jacket of course but generally (and in my opinion, of course), for a leather jacket of this style, you don't want them to go much below your wrists, precisely so they're not in the way.

 

[Buick]

Thanks @Bfd70 and @Monitor - that’s good to hear. The sleeves on my black Aero are a little longer but still not right down onto the back of my hand. I imagine opinions would vary, but it’s encouraging to get a couple of positives. Much appreciated.

 

[Tom71]

It's not the norm, and it's definitely annoying. But it is a risk with very light or natural aniline finishes for sure.

Grab a Thedi for the next one and then it comes with the relicing (or vintaging, whatever you want to call it) and you will never worry about it. I got a used Thedi shawl for $750, which is in the range of standard used for them, and it's been an amazing jacket through all weather.

i don’t know about annoying. I guess it’s a question of expectations.

With my „unfinished“ hides, I am open to constant evolution due to exposure. Similarly, with veg-tan hides, I do expect the leather to soak up water as opposed to repelling it.

Thedi makes one great jacket for sure. He treats a lot of his hides with beeswax, applied while soaking the pieces. That pretty much renders the jackets waterproof.

I don’t think, water stains is a defect per se. It does affect the optics, but not the integrity.
I guess there’s no right or wrong in this question.

 

[Tom71]

Looks like a perfect fit aside from the length. Personally, I can't wear jackets above my belt. Looks great open. The only way to remedy the fit closed is with a pair of Steve Erkels jeans. It looks like the back dips a bit?

Thanks. Yeah, high rise jeans is not for me.

I would prefer an extra inch, but I can live with it. It’s more or less the same length as my Y2 (which is a totally different patter, and the dramatic taper in the TMC enhances the shortness, IMO.

Good point about the back drop. Haven’t checked yet, actually.

 

[Cane sciolto]

Appena arrivato, dovevo provarlo!!!! Non potevo sperare in un capitolo migliore.
Grazie a Mandarino che mi ha venduto questo Sugar Cane Indian

 

[Atg_Stl]

i don’t know about annoying. I guess it’s a question of expectations.

With my „unfinished“ hides, I am open to constant evolution due to exposure. Similarly, with veg-tan hides, I do expect the leather to soak up water as opposed to repelling it.

Thedi makes one great jacket for sure. He treats a lot of his hides with beeswax, applied while soaking the pieces. That pretty much renders the jackets waterproof.

I don’t think, water stains is a defect per se. It does affect the optics, but not the integrity.
I guess there’s no right or wrong in this question.

I had not even heard of this brand before today, but damn does he make some fine looking jackets!! Curious, anyone have an average price point for one of his pieces or ballpark? This custom Double Helix ended up being about $1300 all-in (maybe slightly less) which I think is reasonable all things considered (far cheaper than buying online or retail) so wondering how these might compare to Japanese brands.

 

[Tom71]

I had not even heard of this brand before today, but damn does he make some fine looking jackets!! Curious, anyone have an average price point for one of his pieces or ballpark? This custom Double Helix ended up being about $1300 all-in (maybe slightly less) which I think is reasonable all things considered (far cheaper than buying online or retail) so wondering how these might compare to Japanese brands.

You can expect a Thedi to be around USD 1.500, depending on model. If you’re based in the US, you can have a look at the Thurston Bros. webpage. They should be one of the largest stockists of Thedi that side of the pond.
This is one of his bestselling models. The hide is water buffalo, finished with beeswax. Very hardwearing and water resistant which makes it a great travel jacket.

 

[cbez]

My bounty hunters in natural Maryam also do it. Altho, some water will stain and some will dry clean seemingly without logic. I've found a slightly damp cloth wipe followed by vigorous brushing with a hh brush will help blend it somewhat. As the leather ages it will be much less noticeable but some just stay forever.

May want to apply a wax heavy conditioner like saphir, that may help somewhat.

 

[Ulysse]

Sorry to bother you with my nonsense, guys, but I think I found a new use for my D-1: turning it over, haha

 

[Aloysius]

Appena arrivato, dovevo provarlo!!!! Non potevo sperare in un capitolo migliore.
Grazie a Mandarino che mi ha venduto questo Sugar Cane Indian

I am a massive fan of Sugar Cane and every one of their leather jackets I've seen has blown me away, yet I pretty much never see them for sale even on Japanese sites.

Sorry to bother you with my nonsense, guys, but I think I found a new use for my D-1: turning it over, haha
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Ha the Japanese stores do this when posting sizing pics of every item.

 

[cbez]

I am a massive fan of Sugar Cane and every one of their leather jackets I've seen has blown me away, yet I pretty much never see them for sale even on Japanese sites.



Ha the Japanese stores do this when posting sizing pics of every item.

I've seen some nice Sugar Canes and a lot with pretty cheap looking leather that has lost topcoat in an ugly way. I believe some are made in China but sure. Quality seems up and down.

 

[Aloysius]

I've seen some nice Sugar Canes and a lot with pretty cheap looking leather that has lost topcoat in an ugly way. I believe some are made in China but sure. Quality seems up and down.

I know what you're referring to, but you have it slightly wrong (not your fault but people doing sneaky mislabeling).

Toyo Enterprises, which owns Sugar Cane, owns the rights to Indian Motorcycle merchandise in Japan.

Now this merchandise ranges in quality from mall clothes (although some of those are actually well made) to high end stuff made by Dehen and Sugar Cane.

So you're probably seeing listings for the mall market "Indian" stuff but they're sneakily labeling it Sugar Cane on the auctions and such.

 

[cbez]

I'll have to keep an eye out then. But I haven't seen evidence that sugar cane leather items are made in Japan exclusively, and I don't think I've seen a made in Japan tag on them. Since Toyo has farmed some stuff out to China it makes me more suspicious.

But I think my mr freedom headquarters jacket is made by sugar cane and it's quite high quality so no complaints there.

Example: sugar cane made in China

Sugar Cane Leather Yoke Padded Jacket Men's 60/40 Quilted Western Jacket SC14451 Beige/Brown

SC14451 Sugar Cane (Sugarcane) by Toyo Enterprises Men's Leather Yoke Diamond Quilted Western Jacket with Classical and Fashionable Forms of Western and Outdoor Clothing / Vintage Outdoor Style Quilted Insulated Jacket Accented with a Leather Yoke Panel for Urban Style / Mens Western Yoke 60/40...

rodeo-japan-pine-avenue.com

Here's one listed as made in Japan

Aviator Heavy Weight SC80435 Horsehide Black Leather Jacket CANE5802

Aviator jacket from Sugar Cane. The exterior of this leather jacket is crafted from 100% heavyweight horsehide. Styled with adjustable buckle straps at either sides on the waist, you can fine-tune the fitting of this jacket from relaxed to a closer fit. The inner lining of the body of this black...

sugarcanejeans.com