Do try this at home: leather jacket repair tips

[Will Zach]

I picked up an old Taubers jacket recently that had this small cut in the back. It's still held together, the cut probably goes 80% through the leather thickness and is approximately 2.5cm (1 inch) long.

What options do I have to fix this?

View attachment 709162

I fixed a similar (but a bit shorter) cut by putting 2-part epoxy glue with a tip of a needle into the cut. Then squeezed the two edges together for a few minutes. Could barely see where the cut was.

 

[Retserrof]

I fixed a similar (but a bit shorter) cut by putting 2-part epoxy glue with a tip of a needle into the cut. Then squeezed the two edges together for a few minutes. Could barely see where the cut was.

This is what I was going to do if I had no responses - good to know it works. Did you use clear epoxy or black? And did you use a short cure or 24 hour cure epoxy? Thank you!

 

[Will Zach]

This is what I was going to do if I had no responses - good to know it works. Did you use clear epoxy or black? And did you use a short cure or 24 hour cure epoxy? Thank you!

Short cure, otherwise it may split again. Clear, but black is better.

 

[Carlos840]

Any suggestions for how I might repair this snap? Issue where the snap male part comes undone.

I have the same issue on the jacket’s epaulet. Any easy solutions?

View attachment 709167

Only thing to do is buy some new snaps, remove the broken male part and replace it with a new one.
A lot of snaps are cross compatible so you should only have to change the broken bit.
The "standard" are DOT snaps, they are used by a lot of manufacturers.

You are going to need a setting/riveting tool and die, they can be bought in a kit for a few bucks.

Something like this will sort it:

Durable DOT press snap fastener kit brass nickel plated canvas to canv

Our snap fastener kits are great for doing small repair jobs. Tooling can be very expensive for snap fasteners but the little three piece tool kit is a good solution. This set comes with the 3 pc tool kit which is great for fitting brass nickel plated snap fastenersIf you choose pack of 10 sets...

www.jclarkemarine.com

 

[Destruct]

Only thing to do is buy some new snaps, remove the broken male part and replace it with a new one.
A lot of snaps are cross compatible so you should only have to change the broken bit.
The "standard" are DOT snaps, they are used by a lot of manufacturers.

You are going to need a setting/riveting tool and die, they can be bought in a kit for a few bucks.

Something like this will sort it:

http://[URL]https://www.jclarkemari...ener-brass-nickel-plated-kit-canvas-to-canvas

[/URL]

Thanks! Seems easy enough

 

[PeterRocco]

I picked up an old Taubers jacket recently that had this small cut in the back. It's still held together, the cut probably goes 80% through the leather thickness and is approximately 2.5cm (1 inch) long.

What options do I have to fix this?

View attachment 709162

I have great result with this.

 

[Carlos840]

Thanks! Seems easy enough

There are many youtube videos showing the proces, it's a 5 min job.
Good luck.

 

[unhatted]

I’ve always avoided anything more than a vinegar spritz but I had to wash a Schott 118 due to a very musty smell from about 30 years of storage.

I hand washed it in Woolite and a little vinegar. The smell is thankfully gone and it’s also dealt with most of the storage creases. It was initially quite dry but a coat of Renapur on the body and two on the sleeves seems to have brought back the suppleness. However, it’s lost quite a lot of the glossy finish. I would have thought there wasn’t much of a topcoat to lose on naked cowhide. Is there any way of bringing it back or am I stuck with the matte finish? Not a huge problem if so, but I quite liked the gloss!

Before:

After:

 

[Will Zach]

I’ve always avoided anything more than a vinegar spritz but I had to wash a Schott 118 due to a very musty smell from about 30 years of storage.

I hand washed it in Woolite and a little vinegar. The smell is thankfully gone and it’s also dealt with most of the storage creases. It was initially quite dry but a coat of Renapur on the body and two on the sleeves seems to have brought back the suppleness. However, it’s lost quite a lot of the glossy finish. I would have thought there wasn’t much of a topcoat to lose on naked cowhide. Is there any way of bringing it back or am I stuck with the matte finish? Not a huge problem if so, but I quite liked the gloss!

Before:
View attachment 709401
After:
View attachment 709402

You could restore some of the gloss by applying a very very thin layer of Urad.

 

[unhatted]

You could restore some of the gloss by applying a very very thin layer of Urad.

Thanks! There’s quite a range of urad products on Amazon. Ignoring the coloured ones, which of these would you suggest? The beans perhaps?

 

[Will Zach]

I think this one has been tried by several folks on TFL. An extremely thin layer gives the leather some shine. It is really a topcoat, not a conditioner.

https://www.amazon.com/URAD-step-Leather-conditioner-Bestseller/dp/B0003A1MH2/ref=asc_df_B0003A1MH2?mcid=9e3c5eecd8e036dc967590283e410824&hvocijid=14016593501563615492-B0003A1MH2-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14016593501563615492&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011965&hvtargid=pla-2281435178818&psc=1

 

[photo2u]

I often get good results with this. https://fiebing.com/product/leather-sheen/
As a general rule, always try it first in a hidden small area to review results. Good luck with your project.

 

[pillepalle123]

I fixed a similar (but a bit shorter) cut by putting 2-part epoxy glue with a tip of a needle into the cut. Then squeezed the two edges together for a few minutes. Could barely see where the cut was.

I would worry about it being brittle/not flexible when cured and causing more damage in the long run. There are some 2k flexible CA glues you could use.

The usual procedure is to glue a piece of leather or thick fabric behind the cut with e.g. contact cement. You can use that to close the cut from the outside as well or a special leather glue.

 

[Retserrof]

I would worry about it being brittle/not flexible when cured and causing more damage in the long run. There are some 2k flexible CA glues you could use.

The usual procedure is to glue a piece of leather or thick fabric behind the cut with e.g. contact cement. You can use that to close the cut from the outside as well or a special leather glue.

I'll have to do some research on leather glues. The cuts as mentioned are not all the way through and just needs to be closed up. The procedure you described I thought was for when you have a tear through.

 

[pillepalle123]

Depending on leather thickness and area of the damage it is still best practise.
But yes, it can be enough to just glue it oftentimes.

 

[Will Zach]

You don't need a special leather glue for this. The trick is using a fast-setting glue so you won't have to squeeze the edges together forever. You don't want it to split again before the glue is cured. Epoxy will do just fine. You can try to find a flexible grade. Or a flexible cyanoacrylate (crazy) type glue. Contact cement might work, but the solvent might take a long time to escape from the cut and the cut might split open again if not held together.

 

[pillepalle123]

1k flexible ca glue only works properly on non porous Materials or you would have to somehoe coat it. Otherwise it will Not be that flexible. The 2k CA glue works on nearly anything thought.

Contact cement does not need to be hold together, you let it dry and Hammer/Press it together. Somewhat tricky on cuts, true.

Flexible epoxy will work, yeah.
For smaller cuts on non bending areas any epoxy will propably work.

 

[Jiantle]

I’ve always avoided anything more than a vinegar spritz but I had to wash a Schott 118 due to a very musty smell from about 30 years of storage.

I hand washed it in Woolite and a little vinegar. The smell is thankfully gone and it’s also dealt with most of the storage creases. It was initially quite dry but a coat of Renapur on the body and two on the sleeves seems to have brought back the suppleness. However, it’s lost quite a lot of the glossy finish. I would have thought there wasn’t much of a topcoat to lose on naked cowhide. Is there any way of bringing it back or am I stuck with the matte finish? Not a huge problem if so, but I quite liked the gloss!

Before:
View attachment 709401
After:
View attachment 709402

Was the detergent you used unscented? If so, which one was it? I'm also considering washing a jacket but I've heard about the scent from the detergent staying in the leather. I'm curious to know what your experience is.

 

[RedBird]

Quick question on a shinki leather jacket with a few scratches on the finish. Will a deer bone help any? I’ve heard it may help flatten the scratch but have no experience with it.

I’ve also seen Saphir Repair paste may help, but didn’t want to potentially make a focal point of the blemish if the repair wasn’t near 100%.

Here’s a pic of the area

Otherwise, I’d rather leave the area and be honest with the wear.

Thoughts?

 

[Jiantle]

Quick question on a shinki leather jacket with a few scratches on the finish. Will a deer bone help any? I’ve heard it may help flatten the scratch but have no experience with it.

I’ve also seen Saphir Repair paste may help, but didn’t want to potentially make a focal point of the blemish if the repair wasn’t near 100%.

Here’s a pic of the area

Otherwise, I’d rather leave the area and be honest with the wear.

Thoughts?

I would just leave it be.

1. It's barely noticeable to begin with and not even in a noticeable spot i.e. collar, chest
2. You're going to be picking up all sorts of scratches and wear marks eventually
2. It's a leather jacket. It's meant to be worn hard and looks all the better for it.

Keep wearing it and you'll forget it was even there.