Help with Schott Perfecto sizing

[tmcowboi13]

Hello,

I am a new member but I’ve been stalking the forums when it comes to suits. Leather jackets and even cowboy hats. So very excited to have finally made an account and start interacting. So I bought my first Schott perfecto, it’s a 618 size 34 and appears to be an early 80s model due to the Schott tag on the coin pocket. The issue is, it’s way too small. My chest measured 34.5 and I’m 5’4 and weigh about 135. I can get it to zip but it’s not comfortable one bit and it looks like it’s painted on me. My question is, would going to a 36 be a big difference or would a 38 be what’s needed. Any advice or help I would be very appreciative. If it would help I can also post a picture of me wearing it.

 

[Aloysius]

Hello,

I am a new member but I’ve been stalking the forums when it comes to suits. Leather jackets and even cowboy hats. So very excited to have finally made an account and start interacting. So I bought my first Schott perfecto, it’s a 618 size 34 and appears to be an early 80s model due to the Schott tag on the coin pocket. The issue is, it’s way too small. My chest measured 34.5 and I’m 5’4 and weigh about 135. I can get it to zip but it’s not comfortable one bit and it looks like it’s painted on me. My question is, would going to a 36 be a big difference or would a 38 be what’s needed. Any advice or help I would be very appreciative. If it would help I can also post a picture of me wearing it.

Numbers can be misleading because they've meant different things at different times.

For the intended look, you're going to want a Perfecto that measures 19-20" pit to pit, regardless of the labeled size.

 

[Tom71]

Numbers can be misleading because they've meant different things at different times.

For the intended look, you're going to want a Perfecto that measures 19-20" pit to pit, regardless of the labeled size.

I think this is spot-on advice.

You can e-mail Schott, and they will send you actual measurements of the model(s) you are interested in. Also, the size-recomendation on the webpage is a good starting point.

 

[Edward]

I've always found Schotts to be way undersized. I think most of the ones I've tried on the size label was the actual size of the jacket, rather than the person for which it is intended. By trial and error, I found I needed to go up usually two sizes from what I'd wear in anything else to fit a Schott.

 

[Aloysius]

I've always found Schotts to be way undersized. I think most of the ones I've tried on the size label was the actual size of the jacket, rather than the person for which it is intended. By trial and error, I found I needed to go up usually two sizes from what I'd wear in anything else to fit a Schott.

My 1950s one is listed chest +2 inches; current ones are listed chest +4 inches (thus they tell people to go up a size).

 

[AeroFan_07]

All the Schott Perfecto's I've found that fit me are 48 or even a 50. Ordinarily I'm usually more 44 - 46.
That said I do not own any either currently.

 

[Edward]

My 1950s one is listed chest +2 inches; current ones are listed chest +4 inches (thus they tell people to go up a size).

There does seem to have been a variation in how they measure the sizing over time. My current 618 is a 50, which from memory measures 52". I could probably get away with a 48, but I like how this one fits (and, more importantly, it came used as the new price in the UK now is more than I'd be willing to pay for one). I also had a 46 at a time, which I can still do up but it looks like a sausage skin on me now. I don't think there's much taper in either of them, though. In other jackets, I'm anything from a 42 (at one extreme) to a 50 (at the other).

 

[Aloysius]

There does seem to have been a variation in how they measure the sizing over time. My current 618 is a 50, which from memory measures 52". I could probably get away with a 48, but I like how this one fits (and, more importantly, it came used as the new price in the UK now is more than I'd be willing to pay for one). I also had a 46 at a time, which I can still do up but it looks like a sausage skin on me now. I don't think there's much taper in either of them, though. In other jackets, I'm anything from a 42 (at one extreme) to a 50 (at the other).

Yeah going back to the 50s they had something like a 4 inch taper, which is why it's funny when I see posts here about how 613/618 jackets don't taper as much now. The taper has been the same for 70 years!

 

[AeroFan_07]

^^ Which makes it important to consider your jeans waist size as well. I wish I was a "34" waist, but I have been a consistent "36" for over 20 years, despite workouts, etc.

 

[rain113]

For an FYI, the Schott 118, has a 5 inch taper. And the Japanese models have a 6 inch taper.

 

[Aloysius]

For an FYI, the Schott 118, has a 5 inch taper. And the Japanese models have a 6 inch taper.

Not really. It can seem that way depending on how you measure the underarm footballs. The overally drop ranges from 4-5" among the models and it's 5" at most (Japanese 613 pattern). 118/613/618 are exactly 4 inch. 613S/SH are just over 4".

 

[rain113]

The spec sheets for the 118 show a 5 inch drop and the 613/618 show a 4 inch drop. They both have footballs, so the measurement nuances are the same for both. This might be a new introduction im not sure.

 

[rain113]

This might be a new cut. I'm not sure.