Goodwear Jackets why the attraction

[jchance]

To me the attraction was knowledge...
The reason i buy from all these different manufacturers is to see how things are made differently, to see how high craftsmanship can be pushed, when i heard that JC was "the best" i just had to get one so i could see it with my own eyes. It had nothing to do with exclusivity, price, wait time, it was about knowing if what people said was true.

If I may ask, what is your conclusion after trying all these different brands—how would you distinguish and rank them?

 

[Carlos840]

If I may ask, what is your conclusion after trying all these different brands—how would you distinguish and rank them?

Honestly, i don't really spend much time thinking about or ranking leather jackets anymore.
They have gone from something i used to obsess about and think about all day to something i just use without thinking, like a pair of socks or a hammer.
I think the only answer i can give, is tell you which jackets i actually wear on a daily basis, and that is Lost Worlds.
I have around 60 jackets, if i had had to sell all of them and only keep my custom LW Leathertogs A, i wouldn't miss a thing.

If LW was to become banned everywhere on earth, i would switch to Vanson and be ok.
I would miss my LW, but to me a Vanson does 90% of what a LW does.

They are the two brands that i own that feel like the jackets are "tools".

Keep in mind that my use has changed massively, when i first joined TFL i was a Londoner who only ***** leather to feel good. Now i only wear leather to ride my motorcycle which is a daily thing for me as most of my traveling is done on two wheels.
Jackets have gone from wearable art to tools in my mind, and that changes how I see them a lot.

I will most likely never spend money on a Japanese leather jacket again, they are beautiful, but to me now they are not functionnal as leather jackets as i need them to work on a bike and they dont.

Not a popular opinion, but the only brand i actually regret spending time and money on is Aero, i have not worn one of mine in years and if i ever try to wear one on a special occasion i always end up taking it off before leaving the house.
They are the least comfortable jackets i own, and i now feel that life is too short to wear uncomfortable jackets.

Special mentions for Lewis leathers and Langlitz, i never use them day to day but they have "something going on".

PS: if you have specific questions i'm happy to answer, but it's hard for me to come up with a full comparison write up about 60+ jackets...

 

[Tom71]

Honestly, i don't really spend much time thinking about or ranking leather jackets anymore.
They have gone from something i used to obsess about and think about all day to something i just use without thinking, like a pair of socks or a hammer.
I think the only answer i can give, is tell you which jackets i actually wear on a daily basis, and that is Lost Worlds.
I have around 60 jackets, if i had had to sell all of them and only keep my custom LW Leathertogs A, i wouldn't miss a thing.

If LW was to become banned everywhere on earth, i would switch to Vanson and be ok.
I would miss my LW, but to me a Vanson does 90% of what a LW does.

They are the two brands that i own that feel like the jackets are "tools".

Keep in mind that my use has changed massively, when i first joined TFL i was a Londoner who only ***** leather to feel good. Now i only wear leather to ride my motorcycle which is a daily thing for me as most of my traveling is done on two wheels.
Jackets have gone from wearable art to tools in my mind, and that changes how I see them a lot.

I will most likely never spend money on a Japanese leather jacket again, they are beautiful, but to me now they are not functionnal as leather jackets as i need them to work on a bike and they dont.

Not a popular opinion, but the only brand i actually regret spending time and money on is Aero, i have not worn one of mine in years and if i ever try to wear one on a special occasion i always end up taking it off before leaving the house.
They are the least comfortable jackets i own, and i now feel that life is too short to wear uncomfortable jackets.

Special mentions for Lewis leathers and Langlitz, i never use them day to day but they have "something going on".

PS: if you have specific questions i'm happy to answer, but it's hard for me to come up with a full comparison write up about 60+ jackets...

Well done, @Carlos840! That is about as definitive a statement on the whole hobby, as I have ever seen.

And even if you are more in the "wearable art" camp, you can easily get behind the gist of the summary. Of course, makers are interchangeably, but even then, the "they have something going on", phrase sums it up perfectly.

 

[ericsanpablo31]

Honestly, i don't really spend much time thinking about or ranking leather jackets anymore.
They have gone from something i used to obsess about and think about all day to something i just use without thinking, like a pair of socks or a hammer.
I think the only answer i can give, is tell you which jackets i actually wear on a daily basis, and that is Lost Worlds.
I have around 60 jackets, if i had had to sell all of them and only keep my custom LW Leathertogs A, i wouldn't miss a thing.

If LW was to become banned everywhere on earth, i would switch to Vanson and be ok.
I would miss my LW, but to me a Vanson does 90% of what a LW does.

They are the two brands that i own that feel like the jackets are "tools".

Keep in mind that my use has changed massively, when i first joined TFL i was a Londoner who only ***** leather to feel good. Now i only wear leather to ride my motorcycle which is a daily thing for me as most of my traveling is done on two wheels.
Jackets have gone from wearable art to tools in my mind, and that changes how I see them a lot.

I will most likely never spend money on a Japanese leather jacket again, they are beautiful, but to me now they are not functionnal as leather jackets as i need them to work on a bike and they dont.

Not a popular opinion, but the only brand i actually regret spending time and money on is Aero, i have not worn one of mine in years and if i ever try to wear one on a special occasion i always end up taking it off before leaving the house.
They are the least comfortable jackets i own, and i now feel that life is too short to wear uncomfortable jackets.

Special mentions for Lewis leathers and Langlitz, i never use them day to day but they have "something going on".

PS: if you have specific questions i'm happy to answer, but it's hard for me to come up with a full comparison write up about 60+ jackets...

Curious if your Elmc jackets are still in rotation?

 

[Carlos840]

Curious if your Elmc jackets are still in rotation?

Not really, nowadays if i'm on the bike i wear a LW Leathertogs A.
If i'm not on the bike i wear the LW Ryder.
Sometimes i feel fancy and pic another jacket, but it's always a 1 day thing as they are never as good as the LT A and the Ryder.

The ELMC get worn on Super Special Occasions, like i wore the black Windward at my dad's funeral a few years ago...
To me the ELMCs almost feel like wearing a suite, they are my fancy jackets.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Not really, nowadays if i'm on the bike i wear a LW Leathertogs A.
If i'm not on the bike i wear the LW Ryder.
Sometimes i feel fancy and pic another jacket, but it's always a 1 day thing as they are never as good as the LT A and the Ryder.

The ELMC get worn on Super Special Occasions, like i wore the black Windward at my dad's funeral a few years ago...
To me the ELMCs almost feel like wearing a suite, they are my fancy jackets.

The ELMC get worn on Super Special Occasions, like i wore the black Windward at my dad's funeral a few years ago...
To me the ELMCs almost feel like wearing a suite, they are my fancy jackets.

Quite sorry indeed to hear of your father's passing, Carlos. This occurred for me in 2022 and it's just never "felt" completely right ever since. That process is indeed a difficult journey to walk through.

-------------
Your notes about jackets being "tools" are well taken here. I have done a major purge and still doing more of that. I need jackets that work with me, not against me and I live in an area where practicality is much more important than style overall. I will say that I still want to have some fun, so once I'm able to start taking "fit photos" again that will also be shown. I do not "keep" jackets (or much else) that I do not use. If it's not getting the use it deserves, it's out.

 

[Carlos840]

The ELMC get worn on Super Special Occasions, like i wore the black Windward at my dad's funeral a few years ago...
To me the ELMCs almost feel like wearing a suite, they are my fancy jackets.

Quite sorry indeed to hear of your father's passing, Carlos. This occurred for me in 2022 and it's just never "felt" completely right ever since. That process is indeed a difficult journey to walk through.

-------------
Your notes about jackets being "tools" are well taken here. I have done a major purge and still doing more of that. I need jackets that work with me, not against me and I live in an area where practicality is much more important than style overall. I will say that I still want to have some fun, so once I'm able to start taking "fit photos" again that will also be shown. I do not "keep" jackets (or much else) that I do not use. If it's not getting the use it deserves, it's out.

Sorry to hear that.
You know, i think that someday i will be ready to sell 50 jackets and keep a "normal amount of jackets"...

 

[jchance]

Honestly, i don't really spend much time thinking about or ranking leather jackets anymore.
They have gone from something i used to obsess about and think about all day to something i just use without thinking, like a pair of socks or a hammer.
I think the only answer i can give, is tell you which jackets i actually wear on a daily basis, and that is Lost Worlds.
I have around 60 jackets, if i had had to sell all of them and only keep my custom LW Leathertogs A, i wouldn't miss a thing.

If LW was to become banned everywhere on earth, i would switch to Vanson and be ok.
I would miss my LW, but to me a Vanson does 90% of what a LW does.

They are the two brands that i own that feel like the jackets are "tools".

Keep in mind that my use has changed massively, when i first joined TFL i was a Londoner who only ***** leather to feel good. Now i only wear leather to ride my motorcycle which is a daily thing for me as most of my traveling is done on two wheels.
Jackets have gone from wearable art to tools in my mind, and that changes how I see them a lot.

I will most likely never spend money on a Japanese leather jacket again, they are beautiful, but to me now they are not functionnal as leather jackets as i need them to work on a bike and they dont.

Not a popular opinion, but the only brand i actually regret spending time and money on is Aero, i have not worn one of mine in years and if i ever try to wear one on a special occasion i always end up taking it off before leaving the house.
They are the least comfortable jackets i own, and i now feel that life is too short to wear uncomfortable jackets.

Special mentions for Lewis leathers and Langlitz, i never use them day to day but they have "something going on".

PS: if you have specific questions i'm happy to answer, but it's hard for me to come up with a full comparison write up about 60+ jackets...

Your answers are (almost) perfect. Sorry about your dad’s passing, my condolences.

With that many jackets, we tend to not remember the minute details, but just the highlights and what bothered us the most. For this, you answered. Allow me to dig a little deeper.

Could you say more about LL and Langlitz—what specifically was “something going on” that they have? I’m sitting here wondering whether those features were riding-specific or comfort or something else.

How about your experience of vintage (60s Langlitz, 70s Schott, Apparel Annex) vs OTR (Freewheelers) vs custom (Himel, LW), more broadly? We have your specific reviews (I know of them but haven’t read them all) but how would you compare and pit them against one another at a bird’s eye view / 30000-ft level? You kind of answered this line of questioning, but I’m specifically curious about their value received vs pricing, whether the experience was overrated or underrated.

It’s interesting that you rank LW (custom) and alternately Vanson (OTR) so highly. Obviously Vanson is very affordable even bin, so they offer a lot of value for their price.

Your experience with LW Leathertog A def helps me decide what to get if I were to ever do custom, especially the moose body and horse for sleeves. It’s near the top of my list.

 

[Carlos840]

Your answers are (almost) perfect. Sorry about your dad’s passing, my condolences.

With that many jackets, we tend to not remember the minute details, but just the highlights and what bothered us the most. For this, you answered. Allow me to dig a little deeper.

Could you say more about LL and Langlitz—what specifically was “something going on” that they have? I’m sitting here wondering whether those features were riding-specific or comfort or something else.

How about your experience of vintage (60s Langlitz, 70s Schott, Apparel Annex) vs OTR (Freewheelers) vs custom (Himel, LW), more broadly? We have your specific reviews (I know of them but haven’t read them all) but how would you compare and pit them against one another at a bird’s eye view / 30000-ft level? You kind of answered this line of questioning, but I’m specifically curious about their value received vs pricing, whether the experience was overrated or underrated.

It’s interesting that you rank LW (custom) and alternately Vanson (OTR) so highly. Obviously Vanson is very affordable even bin, so they offer a lot of value for their price.

Your experience with LW Leathertog A def helps me decide what to get if I were to ever do custom, especially the moose body and horse for sleeves. It’s near the top of my list.

Thank you, you are too kind.

-LL and Langlitz both offer exceptional patterns with exceptional comfort and range of motion.
The Universal Mkii is by far the most comfortable jacket i own, it feels like wearing a custom made Savile Row shirt.
The Columbia isn't far behind.
To me the "thing they have going on" is a combination of their history and how good they feel when wearing one sitting on a bike, it really feels like they where designed by someone who deeply cared about what he was doing and had a real understanding of how the human body works.

The only reason i put both of them behind LW and Vanson is the lackluster leather that both LL and Langlitz use.

I almost want to get back on the horse now, seeing that LW is making the Death's head cascade, which would be my favourite Langlitz in my favourite leather, but i keep reminding myself that that jacket is not the one that is going to make me happier...

-I have never been that impressed by vintage jackets, but i have admitedly not have a lot of experience with it because of my size (6'2") most vintage jackets are simply too short for me.
My 60s Langlitz cascade is ok, the pattern is great, but the leather is thin and boring and it has a manufacturing defect. My 70s Schott or AA are made quickly and without any attention to detail, they are not bad jackets, but they are by no means at the level of construction that a Vanson has, let alone a LW.

They are fine, no vintage jacket has ever made me go "wooow" like a LW or a good Vanson Comp weight jacket can.

-Vanson is IMO the best value for money jacket you can find. They have great pattern, decent leather (i admit it's a gamble) great customer service. The only reason they are not as well known as Schott is because they haven't been associated with famous people like Schott has.
I would always recomment buying a Vanson to someone new in the hobby, it's a maker that will most likely not disapoint.

I rate LW higher because of their stitching and attention to detail and their designs are IMO far more interresting.
LW all jackets are made by one man from start to finnish, other than the lining being put together by the assistant.
Vanson is commercialy made, on person makes the body, one person makes the pockets, one person makes the sleeves, one person attaches it all together, by the time your jacket is done it has been through 20 different people who each do their step.
The difference means something to me, but i understand that doesn't have to justifie the difference in price to someone who doesn't care about it.

-Of all the LW i own, the LT A is consitently going back to the top as far as riding jacket goes.
Keep in mind, this is very dependent on the motorcycle you ride and the riding position.
But, it is the one that "disappears" the most when on the bike, in the sens that i NEVER have to fight it and it never makes me second guess my choice.

For example i love the Appalachian, but the large pocket zipper in the front allows air through it, and if it is cool and you go above a certain speed you start to feel cold seeping in through that zipper.
The LT B is great, but it fits probably 1/2 size tighter than the A and i can't comfortably fit my emergency puffer than i carry with me in my panniers.
The Peter's looks AMAZING, but the open collar and buttons are a NIGHTMARE to deal with in real life.
The J24 is my favourite design wise, but forward reach isn't great for me, the body rides up when i reach for handlebars and i get some wind coming in in the back.

In the LT-A, everything just does what it needs to do easily, without a second thought, it just works.
What i like most about it maybe is that the pattern is so well designed that i can ride with only a T-shirt, or with a T shirt and a thick jumper, and then i can still fit my emergency puffer and close it comfortably and move comfortably.
It's the only jacket i own that fits all these layers, but doesn't look oversized when worn with only a Tshirt, and still allows me to move when wearing all the layers.

It does what i need it to do when i need it to do, always, that's why it's my favourite.

In the J-24 for example i have to size up to add layers, i do size 42 in a T shirt, size 44 in a jumper/puffer.
If i wear the size 44 in a T-shirt it feels huge and i get a lot of air flow inside the oversized jacket.
If i wear the 42 i physically cannot wear all the layers.

Interestingly i recently had to ride 500 miles to France and i decided to take a textile riding jacket as the forecast was rain all day. It was a good call as i would have been soaked through in a leather jacket.
But, i hated it, I really missed the reassuring weight of the leather on my upper body.
Technically i was using a safer jacket (armoured), but the thin goretex was allowing far more wind chill through the fabric, and i felt like i was riding naked...

Excuse the wall of text and rambling, i hope i have answered your questions.

Edit: and the combo of leather arms and moose/deer body is really worth it, ultimate comfort.
The moose isn't available (I custom ordered the hide with another TFL member), but i am sure Stuart would make a jacket with his deerskin in th ebody and horse in the arms, which would be 90% the same result.

 

[Carlos840]

How about your experience of vintage (60s Langlitz, 70s Schott, Apparel Annex) vs OTR (Freewheelers) vs custom (Himel, LW), more broadly? We have your specific reviews (I know of them but haven’t read them all) but how would you compare and pit them against one another at a bird’s eye view / 30000-ft level? You kind of answered this line of questioning, but I’m specifically curious about their value received vs pricing, whether the experience was overrated or underrated.

I was rereading your post and i just realised i didn't fully answer your second question .

I don't think custom is "worth it", in the sens that i don't think a $3000 custom LW is three times better than a $999 off the rack Vanson.

Like many things there is a point of diminishing returns, a 10k Custom Shop Master built Fender Telecaster is not 10 times better than a $1000 Fender USA Standard.

If i look at my history, i have been disappointed by custom jackets, and i have loved custom jackets, probably equaly as i have been disappointed and in love with off the rack jackets.

If you can afford it, it's fun, but i don't think it's necessary to find a good jacket that fits you well, unless you have a very unusual body.

 

[AeroFan_07]

I'm realizing this thread has wandered quite a ways from it's original basis (Goodwear Jackets & the attraction). I'll say one thing about that after this point that Carlos mentions above -

One reason Langlitz jackets are as comfortable to use and handy on or off the bike as they are is that Ross Langlitz himself designed most of their original styles. And from the age of 17 - Ross only had one leg, as a motorcyclist. He was nearly killed when a driver backed out of his driveway and ran him over. About the 5th paragraph down on this page gives the more detailed story:
https://www.langlitz.com/ross-langlitz/


------------

Back to Goodwear - my only experience with them was a spec jacket that I purchased and returned that was for sale in the clearance items section of the website for Goodwear. It was very nicely constructed, but not a perfect fit and not really the design of jacket I was seeking, at least at that time. I rarely find myself drawn to military styles - especially anything bomber with knit cuffs, so that eliminates about 90% of Goodwear options for me.

 

[jchance]

I was rereading your post and i just realised i didn't fully answer your second question .

I don't think custom is "worth it", in the sens that i don't think a $3000 custom LW is three times better than a $999 off the rack Vanson.

Like many things there is a point of diminishing returns, a 10k Custom Shop Master built Fender Telecaster is not 10 times better than a $1000 Fender USA Standard.

If i look at my history, i have been disappointed by custom jackets, and i have loved custom jackets, probably equaly as i have been disappointed and in love with off the rack jackets.

If you can afford it, it's fun, but i don't think it's necessary to find a good jacket that fits you well, unless you have a very unusual body.

Don’t worry about the wall of text. Your thought process is helpful for me to determine whether I could fully appreciate the nuances of owning and wearing a LW / Vanson (or other brands) leather jacket like you do. Ultimately, I wouldn’t be able to because I don’t ride, most of your preference is riding-specific. If I ride later on (life is long), I’d strongly consider a Vanson or LW, or possibly Langlitz.

Your discussion on whether custom is worth it is also very helpful. I’m a US 38 and can wear almost everything OTR without tailoring. I’d prob skip the whole custom experience, as I don’t like to waste money. Maybe if I ever do it, I’d do it once for the experience, just to know what it’s like. Sometimes I tend to overpay for a first time and that’s it.

 

[jchance]

Back to Goodwear - my only experience with them was a spec jacket that I purchased and returned that was for sale in the clearance items section of the website for Goodwear. It was very nicely constructed, but not a perfect fit and not really the design of jacket I was seeking, at least at that time. I rarely find myself drawn to military styles - especially anything bomber with knit cuffs, so that eliminates about 90% of Goodwear options for me.

I agree with your point on Goodwear. I’m not into military style, so a lot of what makes Goodwear great (perfect imitation of leather jackets from the bygone era) would be wasted on me. The military-obsessed folks are really into sourcing the period correct zippers and snaps, and getting all the minute details correctly, and for them, Goodwear would scratch that itch. I don’t have that itch, and Goodwear’s offering of style seem unappealing to me.

I’m sure JC does great work and has a long line of military-obsessed customers waiting for his work. I waited in line once for over 1.5 years and asked for a refund after realizing that I’m more into civilian styles.

For instance, I saw a while back that Goodwear was selling this NOS Ralphs-Pugh label for $200 to use in one of his jackets. Someone bought it; that would never be me. I get no value from that spending, but some people do apparently.

Good Wear Leather Coat Company — Sale Buco Product Jacket Label

www.goodwearleather.com

 

[El Marro]

I’m sure JC does great work and has a long line of military-obsessed customers waiting for his work. I waited in line once for over 1.5 years and asked for a refund after realizing that I’m more into civilian styles.

Are you unaware that JC also does civilian jackets with the same attention to detail and pattern that he brings to his military repros? I have four jackets that JC made for me and none of them are flight jackets.

 

[LordOfLeather]

Honestly, i don't really spend much time thinking about or ranking leather jackets anymore.
They have gone from something i used to obsess about and think about all day to something i just use without thinking, like a pair of socks or a hammer.
I think the only answer i can give, is tell you which jackets i actually wear on a daily basis, and that is Lost Worlds.
I have around 60 jackets, if i had had to sell all of them and only keep my custom LW Leathertogs A, i wouldn't miss a thing.

If LW was to become banned everywhere on earth, i would switch to Vanson and be ok.
I would miss my LW, but to me a Vanson does 90% of what a LW does.

They are the two brands that i own that feel like the jackets are "tools".

Keep in mind that my use has changed massively, when i first joined TFL i was a Londoner who only ***** leather to feel good. Now i only wear leather to ride my motorcycle which is a daily thing for me as most of my traveling is done on two wheels.
Jackets have gone from wearable art to tools in my mind, and that changes how I see them a lot.

I will most likely never spend money on a Japanese leather jacket again, they are beautiful, but to me now they are not functionnal as leather jackets as i need them to work on a bike and they dont.

Not a popular opinion, but the only brand i actually regret spending time and money on is Aero, i have not worn one of mine in years and if i ever try to wear one on a special occasion i always end up taking it off before leaving the house.
They are the least comfortable jackets i own, and i now feel that life is too short to wear uncomfortable jackets.

Special mentions for Lewis leathers and Langlitz, i never use them day to day but they have "something going on".

PS: if you have specific questions i'm happy to answer, but it's hard for me to come up with a full comparison write up about 60+ jackets...

Thank you, Carlos, for your relatable and insightful sharing on this thread. Although I've worn leather for over 25 years, I also began riding motorcycles several years ago and everything changed. I'm on two wheels almost every day, aside from the winter months, and though I still think of jackets as wearable art, they have become far more utilitarian.

Many jackets that I thought were "good" motorcycle jackets turned out to be horribly uncomfortable or impractical on the bike (mostly Schott, in my case). I do wear a wide variety of jackets while riding though (including one Aero that is in fact very comfortable on the bike), but I agree that Vanson just knows how to do it right in terms of comfort, mobility and overall functionality. I just wish the competition weight on my Chopper looked and felt better.

I really need to let go of some jackets that aren't practical on the bike(s). I've also encountered this dilemma with boots/shoes. I've always preferred leather soles, so most of my boots collected dust after I started riding. Slowly but surely, I've had my cobbler add rubber soles to many of them. However, I am in need of a great purge. Footwear doesn't have the same re-sale value as jackets though, so I tend to keep them around longer than I should.

I've never owned a LW jacket, but I'll keep them on my radar the next time I get the bite for something new.

I'm wondering if you can elaborate on your statement about Japanese jackets not working well on a bike? I haven't taken the plunge into the Japanese market, but some of them sure look good. The measurements always seem off for my body -- sleeves and body too short, waist too narrow, etc. -- and given the higher price tags, I haven't been confident enough to take the plunge.

So what is it about Japanese jackets that you think don't work well while riding, from your experience? If this information is already available in other threads, feel free to point me in the right direction.

 

[Carlos840]

Thank you, Carlos, for your relatable and insightful sharing on this thread. Although I've worn leather for over 25 years, I also began riding motorcycles several years ago and everything changed. I'm on two wheels almost every day, aside from the winter months, and though I still think of jackets as wearable art, they have become far more utilitarian.

Many jackets that I thought were "good" motorcycle jackets turned out to be horribly uncomfortable or impractical on the bike (mostly Schott, in my case). I do wear a wide variety of jackets while riding though (including one Aero that is in fact very comfortable on the bike), but I agree that Vanson just knows how to do it right in terms of comfort, mobility and overall functionality. I just wish the competition weight on my Chopper looked and felt better.

I really need to let go of some jackets that aren't practical on the bike(s). I've also encountered this dilemma with boots/shoes. I've always preferred leather soles, so most of my boots collected dust after I started riding. Slowly but surely, I've had my cobbler add rubber soles to many of them. However, I am in need of a great purge. Footwear doesn't have the same re-sale value as jackets though, so I tend to keep them around longer than I should.

I've never owned a LW jacket, but I'll keep them on my radar the next time I get the bite for something new.

I'm wondering if you can elaborate on your statement about Japanese jackets not working well on a bike? I haven't taken the plunge into the Japanese market, but some of them sure look good. The measurements always seem off for my body -- sleeves and body too short, waist too narrow, etc. -- and given the higher price tags, I haven't been confident enough to take the plunge.

So what is it about Japanese jackets that you think don't work well while riding, from your experience? If this information is already available in other threads, feel free to point me in the right direction.

The reference to the Japanese jackets "not working" on the bike for me is mostly related to water resistance and leather thickness.
Most japanese made jackets are veg tanned leather that is on the thinner side, to me they are not thick enough to survive a slide on the pavement. I feel safe in Comp Weight or LW 4oz leather, not in 2.5oz Shinki....

Admitedly, this is a "feeling" and not a scientific test, but if you told me i had to be dragged behind a car wearing one of my leather jackets i would pick my Vanson Commando in comp weight, or any LW jacket before i pic a fancy Shinki Japanese jacket...

They are also pretty poor as far as water resistance goes.
I got soaked through in my Freewheelers La Brea Just walking in the rain, i don't want to ride in the rain in it...

 

[LordOfLeather]

The reference to the Japanese jackets "not working" on the bike for me is mostly related to water resistance and leather thickness.
Most japanese made jackets are veg tanned leather that is on the thinner side, to me they are not thick enough to survive a slide on the pavement. I feel safe in Comp Weight or LW 4oz leather, not in 2.5oz Shinki....

Admitedly, this is a "feeling" and not a scientific test, but if you told me i had to be dragged behind a car wearing one of my leather jackets i would pick my Vanson Commando in comp weight, or any LW jacket before i pic a fancy Shinki Japanese jacket...

They are also pretty poor as far as water resistance goes.
I got soaked though in my Freewheelers La Brea Just walking in the rain, i don't want to ride in the rain in it...

That makes sense. I made the mistake of assuming it had to do with the fit of the jackets. Most of my commuting is 10 minutes or less to and from work, and I'm not that concerned about hide thickness. I think more about safety when I go for a proper ride though.

In other news, I was just perusing the Lost Worlds website and discovered none other than you modeling their jackets. They give you a discount for that?

 

[red devil]

Just a small addendum, chrome tanned leather has a much higher abrasion resistance compared to Vegetable tanned leather.