Info Sought About Vintage CHP Jacket

[Cavalier]

Hello: I recently acquired this vintage horsehide motorcycle jacket and am hoping some of the experts here can help me identify its maker and age. The jacket is virtually identical to a Cal Leather I had many years ago, but there are no labels or markings of any kind.

It has a "Crown" main zipper and "Conmar" sleeve zips. The inner cuffs are fur and the jacket's satin lining appears to be original. Its 3 pockets have canvas interiors. I think that it is bespoke because, while the shoulders are about a size 41 it's narrow through the body and waist, I'd say about a size 38.

Thanks much for any information you can provide.

PS: I don't wish to sell it now, but might part with it in the near future should I find a better fit.

 

[jeo]

It’s a Star Glove. Horsehide. Late 40’s based on that Crown zip.

 

[jchance]

+1 Star Glove horse. M46 crown zipper, c.1946

Try burning a loose thread, it should burn cleanly with ash remaining, not burning like plastic. That should indicate pre-1950 before the commercialization of polycotton thread.

You can also date the jacket by snap, look it up.

 

[photo2u]

You got good information from Jchance. However, it is a 50s in my view. Those sleeve zippers are 50s. They could be replacements also but I would need to see the thread around them. Regarding cotton thread, those companies purchase in bulk, and some of the thread will last several years on their shelves. I know because one of the former employees told me. Cal, like many others, also took advantage of surplus and hardware available after the Korean War. Furthermore, the current owner informed me that back in the day, labels were not used as much as their newer label started to be used in the 60s. In true reality, back in the late 40s, they used a very durable nylon "checker" lining. I have several Cals with 40s zippers that were constructed in the late 50s. This information was shared by Cal themselves. My favorite xzip from Cal is the talon big teeth zipper bear of a jacket made for a CHP patrolman who rented a "party" apartment on my street. He was a wild crazy, party, good old boy. Anyway, the jacket is sweet, but it also could be that good old thick steer hide that I prefer.

 

[大馬伕]

The CHP is a big agency. Not one vendor gets the entire contract. Smaller, local shops also make jackets for the agency. Some of those shops may be long gone, without any information on them. Butler's, Bricker Mincolla, and Fashion Uniforms were long time suppliers to Northern California law enforcement. This was before the corporate giant Aramark cornered the uniform industry. No known legend as to who manufactured the leather jackets that thousands of cops got for decades. I suspect that there was a "ghost kitchen" sweatshop that made them. But that's only my suspicion.

 

[jchance]

No known legend as to who manufactured the leather jackets that thousands of cops got for decades.

It is well-known that Cal-Leather supplied official leather uniforms for LAPD and similar styles for CHP and other law enforcement agencies, and Johnson Leather supplied leather jackets for SFPD, Oakland PD, neighboring towns/cities police stations, plus some of the local CHP units.

 

[jeo]

Yes, companies bought in bulk so seeing a late 40’s zipper doesn’t mean the jacket is late 40’s.

I’ve always read that the first Cal label came out in 1947. The Cal website just says 40’s.

The earliest hardware I’ve seen on Cals that were labeled (red label) are early 50’s paperclip Talons. Otherwise jackets aren’t labeled and often have a mix of hardware.

I do believe OP’s jacket is a Star Glove and not a Cal.

All but one of the Star Gloves I’ve seen have a single welt inner pocket (30’s ones have a zippered inner pocket that is double welted). Both of my SG jackets are single welt.

All the Cals that I’ve seen have double welt inner pockets. One 50’s red labeled one I’ve seen had a single but all others had double. Both of mine do.

Unless my eyes are deceiving me it looks like OP’s jacket has a single welt.

If it’s a Star Glove from the late 40’s like I believe it is and not a Cal it definitely makes it horsehide and not steerhide.

The Conmar zips on OP’s jacket don’t look to be replacements but it’s hard to tell.

Conmar doesn’t follow Talon exactly as far as dates. I have that same Conmar as OP’s on my late 40’s Admiral Byrd. This one might be a replacement but I believe I have others as well, this one was just close by. It just looks old too.

As for Star Glove linings, you see a mix of three main linings, not just the “checker” lining. Based on what I’ve seen, you don’t see one more than the other.

Sometimes you see a heavy duty horizontally ribbed nylon liner.

Sometimes you’ll see the checker lining. One of mine has the checker lining.

Then you’ll often see the smooth nylon lining just like on Cals.

 

[jchance]

I had to Google to know what a “welt” is. Each half-circle red curve shows a welt.

Cal’s double welt inner pocket

 

[Cavalier]

Thanks very much for all of the information. I certainly agree that hardware and other materials alone do not provide definitive identification, as various types and brands were no doubt used for many years and on different models. I acquired my first vintage cycle jacket -- a straight zip, button cuff, CHP worn Cal Leather -- more than 30 years ago, and obsessively viewed a few thousand others since then. Some of you in Los Angeles may recall when there were four shops on Melrose Ave that specialized in them, the most offensive of which did not put prices on the sales tags.

Attached are a few more photos. The lining on the slash pockets is green canvas. The inside pocket appears to have a single welt. The pocket zippers are also Conmar; I'm proud to write that I was just barely able to read them without a loupe.

The inside of the snaps are plain, without lettering.

I do not see any evidence of a label having been attached to the interior, although its certainly possible that stitch holes might have been rubbed out or otherwise disappeared over time.

And I'd be shocked if it's not horsehide.

Please let me know if this additional data provides further insight into the brand or period of manufacture.

Thanks again!

 

[jchance]

The inside of the snaps are plain, without lettering.

Have you checked all of the snaps, including each of the belt loops?

My unlabeled “Star Glove” also has the same green canvas pocket. It has single welt inside pocket and all cotton threads. Even the lining is made of cotton threads, when I burned a piece of it. It has Crown sleeve zippers and United Carr snaps.

 

[Cavalier]

The larger snaps have the letters "DOT" on the inside, but none have any other writing or brand name.

 

[Peacoat]

Leave this alone. Let's not get it started up again.

 

[Bluechel]

Yes, companies bought in bulk so seeing a late 40’s zipper doesn’t mean the jacket is late 40’s.

I’ve always read that the first Cal label came out in 1947. The Cal website just says 40’s.

The earliest hardware I’ve seen on Cals that were labeled (red label) are early 50’s paperclip Talons. Otherwise jackets aren’t labeled and often have a mix of hardware.

I do believe OP’s jacket is a Star Glove and not a Cal.

All but one of the Star Gloves I’ve seen have a single welt inner pocket (30’s ones have a zippered inner pocket that is double welted). Both of my SG jackets are single welt.

All the Cals that I’ve seen have double welt inner pockets. One 50’s red labeled one I’ve seen had a single but all others had double. Both of mine do.

Unless my eyes are deceiving me it looks like OP’s jacket has a single welt.

If it’s a Star Glove from the late 40’s like I believe it is and not a Cal it definitely makes it horsehide and not steerhide.

The Conmar zips on OP’s jacket don’t look to be replacements but it’s hard to tell.

Conmar doesn’t follow Talon exactly as far as dates. I have that same Conmar as OP’s on my late 40’s Admiral Byrd. This one might be a replacement but I believe I have others as well, this one was just close by. It just looks old too.

View attachment 744612 View attachment 744613


As for Star Glove linings, you see a mix of three main linings, not just the “checker” lining. Based on what I’ve seen, you don’t see one more than the other.

Sometimes you see a heavy duty horizontally ribbed nylon liner.

View attachment 744601 View attachment 744602


Sometimes you’ll see the checker lining. One of mine has the checker lining.

View attachment 744604


Then you’ll often see the smooth nylon lining just like on Cals.

View attachment 744603 View attachment 744605 View attachment 744606

“All but one of the Star Gloves I’ve seen have a single welt inner pocket (30’s ones have a zippered inner pocket that is double welted). Both of my SG jackets are single welt.” so was the one exception you’re referring a 30s one or did you happen to see one that was from the 50’s That was not a single welt? It’s not clear here that’s why I’m asking for clarification. If every single one that you saw that was labeled star glove was single welt then we’re moving toward a definitive characteristic, but if there was an exception, I would like to be clear about that so that I don’t view that as a rule to verify. Also, are Cals with all zips being Crown common or exceptions?

 

[jeo]

so was the one exception you’re referring a 30s one or did you happen to see one that was from the 50’s That was not a single welt?

No, not from the 30’s. Star Gloves from the 30’s have a zippered, double welted inner pocket. All later Star Gloves I’ve seen except ONE have had single welt inner pockets.

All the Cals I’ve ever seen except ONE early red label Cal have had double welted inner pockets.

Since there are exceptions this is not a 100% sure fire way to identify and distinguish between a SG and a Cal, but it’s a really good start since these exceptions are rare.

Also, are Cals with all zips being Crown common or exceptions?

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a Cal with original Crown zips. The earliest zipper I’ve seen on a Cal is an early 50’s Talon #10 paperclip.

I’ve also seen Star Gloves with that zipper too.

I believe that in the transition of when Star Glove became Cal in the late 40’s/early 50’s that there was some overlap in construction methods and hardware used and that’s the reason for those rare exceptions.

 

[Bluechel]

No, not from the 30’s. Star Gloves from the 30’s have a zippered, double welted inner pocket. All later Star Gloves I’ve seen except ONE have had single welt inner pockets.

All the Cals I’ve ever seen except ONE early red label Cal have had double welted inner pockets.

Since there are exceptions this is not a 100% sure fire way to identify and distinguish between a SG and a Cal, but it’s a really good start since these exceptions are rare.



I don’t think I’ve ever seen a Cal with original Crown zips. The earliest zipper I’ve seen on a Cal is an early 50’s Talon #10 paperclip.

I’ve also seen Star Gloves with that zipper too.

I believe that in the transition of when Star Glove became Cal in the late 40’s/early 50’s that there was some overlap in construction methods and hardware used and that’s the reason for those rare exceptions.

Agree, I just found @Leigh H Star Glove with the double pocket welt. Now I can cross that off the list. Makes me think the jacket I just saw with five Crowns is a Star...

 

[jeo]

Agree, I just found @Leigh H Star Glove with the double pocket welt. Now I can cross that off the list. Makes me think the jacket I just saw with five Crowns is a Star...

That’s the one!

I originally saw this image. Looked like a double welt.

Never seen the image you posted. It’s the same jacket but now I’m thinking that might just be the leather backing. White arrow is the welt. Yellow arrow is the leather backing.

@Leigh H can you confirm whether your straight zip SG has double or single welt.

 

[jeo]

Found @Leigh H ‘s original post. Does look like a double.

 

[Bluechel]

That’s the one!

I originally saw this image. Looked like a double welt.

View attachment 747493



Never seen the image you posted. It’s the same jacket but now I’m thinking that might just be the leather backing. White arrow is the welt. Yellow arrow is the leather backing.

View attachment 747492


@Leigh H can you confirm whether your straight zip SG has double or single welt.

Definitely a double welt. Big news for me as I'm working on classifying a Cal/Star and looking for exceptions to the "rule".

 

[Leigh H]

There should be stitching marking from the Starglove label on the inside pocket.

The early Cals with the red labels were glued for some crazy reason, so they have no stitch markings on the inside pocket.

 

[Cavalier]

Thanks much to those who provided information regarding my jacket. Unfortunately, many of the comments -- though no doubt well intentioned -- turned out to be inaccurate. Gwen Cornell of Cal-Leather has informed me that the jacket is a "Cal" and likely dates from 1953 to 1955, thus contradicting the multiple assertions that it is a Star Glove (unfortunately, she declined to explain her reasoning for the attribution). Also, it is indeed horsehide despite at least one suggestion to the contrary.

Although I love the jacket, I hope to find one that is a bit larger, in which case I would consider selling. So please feel free to reach out if you might wish to acquire it.