Exactly.
The next time I am over at Martin Greenfield I'll ask the guys over there what they think led to the change. They've been around long enough to have experienced it first hand.
Another theory that I've come across is that it takes much more skill to make/sew/attach a smaller armhole (not as forgiving of mistakes, etc.) so that as standards starting dropping and mass production really took off that it was just easier and cheaper to make larger armholes. Again though, I...
Great 1939 J Press Morning Suit - lost just at the last second on it too - would've fit me like a glove.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=110160759806&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=001
From the Albert Thurston site in re sizing:
"Braces are measured from the waistband, over the shoulder to where they attach at the back of the trouser.
Medium are 40"/100cms, Large are 44"/110cms", and X Large are 46"/115cms"
www.albertthurston.com
My new summer-weight suit (and I) showed up on The Sartorialist yesterday.
2 button peak, ticket-pocket, double vents, working cuffs, high-waisted (11 inch rise), side-adjusters, single-forward pleats...
Up here in the NE (NY and CT), most everyone dresses very preppy for polo.
So I would recommend linen trousers, OCBD shirt (blue, white or pink), bow-tie, blazer.
Straw hat optional.
As always, Forgotten NY has a great page with some very cool color photos and accompanying descriptions of scenes around NYC.
http://www.forgotten-ny.com/STREET%20SCENES/astheywere/astheywere.html
The rest of the pictures can be found here...
And feels spectacular.
Instead of anytime soon, the trend toward more luxurious, finer fabrics isn't going anywhere w/n our lifetimes except toward even finer materials.
The Brandy Library (in Tribeca) perfectly fits all of your requirements.
They only play jazz, serves perfectly made (though expensive) cocktails, the best scotch/brandy/cognac selection you'll ever see, and has the requisite atmosphere.
I received it this past Christmas and heartily agree - it is a fun read. As far as the knots go, all of the ones that they give a full or 1/2 page write-up to are well worth wearing. I particularly like the Grantchester. For an odder knot that I've taken to wearing, the variation of the...
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