Douglas Fairbanks suit study....

mike · Oct 27, 2008

In thinking about the new Brooks Brothers classic style ad campaign, why would simple, timeless, completely functional suit styles from even earlier times than what BB are referencing as worn by one Mr. Douglas Fairbanks, pass completely from style.

These all date from approximately 1917 or prior as they were printed in his self help book from that year, Laugh and Live...

mike · Nov 2, 2008

bump!

Does anyone know of anyone who has had a reproduction of a teens/20's suit like this made? If so, what would be the pitfalls in creating one? I ask because sometimes repro suits that incorporate classic 30's/40's stylings still have aspects of them that resemble modern era suits. How would one suggest getting this done right? Obviously the first step would be finding a heavy fabric that doesn't drape like a modern suit. But what about the shoulders? How would this era of suit construction handle the shoulders and armholes? I'd be worried that having a teens/20's suit reproduced could wind up looking like a 60's suit for some reason... Any suggestions? Just thinking out loud right now, but I'd love to reproduce this look!

vitanola · Nov 2, 2008

mike said:
bump!

Does anyone know of anyone who has had a reproduction of a teens/20's suit like this made? If so, what would be the pitfalls in creating one? I ask because sometimes repro suits that incorporate classic 30's/40's stylings still have aspects of them that resemble modern era suits. How would one suggest getting this done right? Obviously the first step would be finding a heavy fabric that doesn't drape like a modern suit. But what about the shoulders? How would this era of suit construction handle the shoulders and armholes? I'd be worried that having a teens/20's suit reproduced could wind up looking like a 60's suit for some reason... Any suggestions? Just thinking out loud right now, but I'd love to reproduce this look!

I am looking for the same sort of thing. Any sugggestions?

Matt Deckard · Nov 2, 2008

I have a couple jackets from the teens and 20's and the major construction differences have to do with how Hollywood influenced cuts to augment the physique for the stars. When I was in London last year I saw howbmodern tailors were going for that slim fit , and as you said they turnout very 60s in style. It's just how they cut and know anatomy today when it comes to construction. But I will say that with the rift eye and the right materials that a 1914 fitting suit can be produced right

mike · Nov 3, 2008

Matt Deckard said:
I have a couple jackets from the teens and 20's and the major construction differences have to do with how Hollywood influenced cuts to augment the physique for the stars.

Do you think he had a distinct look though? I think he mainly exemplifies the norm (if not higher end norm) for the time while highlighting the range of acrobatic movement he was able to maintain in a relatively tight fighting suit.

When ye olde bruised wallet can manage it, I'd love to have this look attempted for me, but I am worried it wouldn't read correctly :eusa_doh:

mike · Nov 3, 2008

I would love to see more pictures of the complete 3 piece Old Town suits...

I guess I'm thrown by them because they are sold as separates and not made to measure. But if they work... they work! It seems to me that they might be dead on and they have heavy weight material offered! Anyone have their clothes that they can review and take pictures of? What are the armholes and general fit like?

Feraud · Nov 3, 2008

mike said:
bump!

Does anyone know of anyone who has had a reproduction of a teens/20's suit like this made? If so, what would be the pitfalls in creating one? I ask because sometimes repro suits that incorporate classic 30's/40's stylings still have aspects of them that resemble modern era suits. How would one suggest getting this done right? Obviously the first step would be finding a heavy fabric that doesn't drape like a modern suit. But what about the shoulders? How would this era of suit construction handle the shoulders and armholes? I'd be worried that having a teens/20's suit reproduced could wind up looking like a 60's suit for some reason... Any suggestions? Just thinking out loud right now, but I'd love to reproduce this look!

For a good reproduction I think you need an example in hand and have a tailor that is willing to replicate the cut exactly.

As an aside, I saw a wonderful overcoat dated 1912 in a thrift shop this past weekend. When I tried it on the skirt had a nice flair to it.

mike · Nov 3, 2008

Feraud said:
For a good reproduction I think you need an example in hand and have a tailor that is willing to replicate the cut exactly.

As an aside, I saw a wonderful overcoat dated 1912 in a thrift shop this past weekend. When I tried it on the skirt had a nice flair to it.

The only time I saw such an old suit for sale it went for almost two months rent for me! Far too rich for my blood :eusa_doh:

I saw you mention that overcoat.. no pictures yet though?
Missed ya at Dances of Vice this past weekend!

Tomasso · Nov 3, 2008

I've been where both these boys have been.

Though, I don't think that I've ever been photographed being as pissed off as Senior appears to be.

mike · Nov 3, 2008

Tomasso said:
I've been where both these boys have been.

Though, I don't think that I've ever been photographed being as pissed off as Senior appears to be.

Where do you mean!?
And his scowl is all the more funny as it's taken from his Laugh and Live self help book! haha

Feraud · Nov 3, 2008

mike said:
Missed ya at Dances of Vice this past weekend!

Sorry to have missed it. Work got the better of me.

mike · Nov 3, 2008

Feraud said:
Sorry to have missed it. Work got the better of me.

Completely understand, that's my line for most events! Have you seen the futurist british print exhibit at the Met yet?

Feraud · Nov 3, 2008

No I have not. Did you go? Any good?

mike · Nov 3, 2008

Feraud said:
No I have not. Did you go? Any good?

you bet! It's incredible! I'm all for going back sometime soon too, ought we rally some troops?!

Feraud · Nov 3, 2008

That is a good idea. The problem is getting everyone on the same schedule!

There might be a lunch happening this week if I am not in jury duty. I will p.m. you the details if we do.

The Old Town items look really good. Unfortunately they do not do internet orders.

mike · Nov 3, 2008

Feraud said:
That is a good idea. The problem is getting everyone on the same schedule!
There might be a lunch happening this week if I am not in jury duty. I will p.m. you the details if we do.

The Old Town items look really good. Unfortunately they do not do internet orders.

Well they're just a phone call away!

and me, I'm off monday, wenesday and thursday

Matt Deckard · Nov 3, 2008

Fabric is about 85 percent of the issue, though when it comes to those earlier suits it's still in the shoulder construction and down from that point.

I haven't done any 20's looks yet... been sticking to the 30's and 40's and an Elvis suit with a box back, though When I get a customer that needs that extra fitted look without looking tight I'll endeavor to do it to a tee without any compromise.

Anywho, check out this jacket fond at the Vintage Fashion expo. No lining whatsoever and lots of ornate details... very nice early 30's fit.

30's with a less rounded shoulder, though it has the armholes like circles so you can do what Douglas does and feel unencumbered.

This jacket and the rest of the suit now belong to a man named Steve

This is of a tux I have from the 20's... there are many ways to get that sloped shoulder, this is one way of binding the shoulder to the body of the jacket... very smooth transition. Some call it more of a Neapolitan design nowadays, though it was very common back in in the 20s and before.
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/40/l_20cf8c2147dd45cd892e388e936dec31.jpg

Salv · Nov 17, 2008

mike - I've just tried to PM you to answer your Old Town question but your PM box is full. Since you mentioned this thread I though this would be a good place to get your attention.

H.Johnson · Nov 17, 2008

mike said:
I would love to see more pictures of the complete 3 piece Old Town suits...

I guess I'm thrown by them because they are sold as separates and not made to measure. But if they work... they work! It seems to me that they might be dead on and they have heavy weight material offered! Anyone have their clothes that they can review and take pictures of? What are the armholes and general fit like?

They make to order, so if you want the suit cut from the same cloth, that will not be a problem. I have some of their items (as does BT) and I am generally satisfied with them, but I visited their workshop in Norfolk and inspected their work first. I think they are expensive, but offer hand-made quality. The fit of their jackets is too loose ('modern') for my liking, but that wouldn't apply to everybody. Stating the obvious, if you are buying items unexamined, you are taking a chance that you may not like them. However, if photographs are satisfactory to you, there are plenty on their new combined website.

Feraud · Dec 1, 2008

This auction reminded me of the Douglas Fairbanks thread.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=290277562988
Did a local take this one home?

Douglas Fairbanks suit study....

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