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Formal Wear Primer
Waistcoat lapel facings I'm having a hard time finding specific references to lapels on vintage black-tie waistcoats and I'm hoping you guys can help me out! It seems that silk waistcoats usually took self-faced lapels / revers but I can't find any info about facings on the lapels of wool...- Midnight Blue
- Post #781
- Forum: Suits
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Formal Wear Primer
Evening waistcoats should always be completely buttoned.- Midnight Blue
- Post #772
- Forum: Suits
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Formal Wear Primer
In my research the farthest that I've been able to trace them is back to 1959.- Midnight Blue
- Post #761
- Forum: Suits
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Formal Wear Primer
Okay, let me refine my response. By your argument, because vintage Correct Dress Charts don’t specifically prohibit the colours, patterns and fabrics of common lounge suits to be used in dinner jackets then they are all theoretically acceptable. It is not logical to argue that items can be...- Midnight Blue
- Post #563
- Forum: Suits
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Formal Wear Primer
If you're going to take the position that anything not specifically forbidden in a dress chart is potentially correct then the whole point of dress charts becomes redundant. Following this line of logic, patterned dinner jackets, button-down shirts, brogues, four-in-hand ties and soft caps...- Midnight Blue
- Post #552
- Forum: Suits
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Formal Wear Primer
I just noticed your request and would be happy to oblige. My 1920s and 1930s sources are as follows: Men’s Wear magazine has many ads for notched lapels, but the dress charts in the issues I have researched only mention peak lapel or shawl collar: Mar 11, 1925 Mar 24, 1926 Apr 7, 1926...- Midnight Blue
- Post #524
- Forum: Suits
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Formal Wear Primer
I stand corrected. Boy, that is one rare garment!- Midnight Blue
- Post #470
- Forum: Suits
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Formal Wear Primer
That's a contemporary photo - I rest my case. (May 2005, to be precise) A picture of the Duke of Windsor in a notched lapel DJ would be a whole other matter . . .- Midnight Blue
- Post #453
- Forum: Suits
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Formal Wear Primer
Okay, I'll take up the challenge and argue that notch lapels are not historically "correct" :) As others have pointed out, notched lapel dinner jackets have been historically available, but this is a far cry from being historically "correct". Evening wear is a matter of etiquette and...- Midnight Blue
- Post #444
- Forum: Suits
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Formal Wear Primer
Sure, if your trousers stay in place without braces then you can certainly get by without the braces. I am just trying to make the point that braces and cummerbunds serve entirely different roles because so many Americans mistakenly believe that they serve the same purpose. In other words...- Midnight Blue
- Post #425
- Forum: Suits
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Cummerbund with Eton Jacket?
Ahh, I knew there would be a logical explanation for the difference of opinion. So basically Mr. Chevalier and I are both correct and MisterGrey has the option of dressing like a (1) 19th century school boy, (2) New Wave formal dresser or (3) 21st century cruise waiter. Personally, I'd...- Midnight Blue
- Post #8
- Forum: Suits
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Cummerbund with Eton Jacket?
you can get the lowdown at http://www.blacktieguide.com/History/05.htm- Midnight Blue
- Post #6
- Forum: Suits
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Formal Wear Primer
I see where your confusion comes from. However, that advice is wrong for the reasons I have already pointed out. (If it was true then men would have stopped wearing braces with their evening clothes back in the 1920s when the cummerbund was introduced. That's hardly the case.)- Midnight Blue
- Post #421
- Forum: Suits
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Cummerbund with Eton Jacket?
The modern spencer jacket is a fashion innovation, not a black-tie tradition. As such there are no set rules as there are for dinner jackets and tailcoats. I'll be the first to agree that there is very little info about this jacket on my site but that's because I have not found a single...- Midnight Blue
- Post #4
- Forum: Suits
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Formal Wear Primer
The combination is fine, as is the flower. I would suggest you tuck in the jacket's pocket flaps though. And while there's nothing wrong with well-shined dress shoes as a substitute for patent leather, it appears that you might be wearing brogues. If so, they are too informal for black tie...- Midnight Blue
- Post #415
- Forum: Suits
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Formal Wear Primer
If it's good enough for the royals, it's good enough for the rest of us. (At least among Commonwealth countries - the US does not follow this tradition.)- Midnight Blue
- Post #393
- Forum: Suits
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Tuxedo Rental
As always, Orgetorix is right on the mark. To see the migration of the white waistcoat from full dress to semi-formal dress, see the History section of www.blacktieguide.com.- Midnight Blue
- Post #77
- Forum: Suits
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Finally wore the tux
ummm . . . did you lose weight since buying the dinner jacket?- Midnight Blue
- Post #5
- Forum: Suits
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Tuxedo Rental
Correct on both counts! I'm glad you like the site.- Midnight Blue
- Post #31
- Forum: Suits
