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  1. I

    Deckard & Newcastle

    Most of my ties are unlined and many made from either vintage, or vintage repro silks. I love them, but can only warn you that most people I know do not. On the other hand, start up costs are low.
  2. I

    Show us your suits

    ^^^ That is a great tie. Probably my favorite design for ties.
  3. I

    Show us your suits

    Thanks, Marty. I have nothing vintage, and perhaps am a bit out of sync with the prevailing style here, but if I can think of any interesting pictures, I will be sure to post them in this thread.
  4. I

    Show us your suits

    I think he was quickly banned from that site, but I have no idea why. it is too bad, because in his week as a member, he added more content than the place has seen in a year.
  5. I

    "Tailor Made in Cumbria"

    Just two points... I met Tom when he was fitting a guy I know. His stuff seems very nice, and he is a heck of a nice guy. I haven't tried him, and wouldn't as I am happy as is, but his work looked as good to me as any of the English tailors I've seen. His office is in Cumbria, he meets...
  7. I

    Quality of manufacture for leather coats?

    You will eventually learn that Tomasso, despite his tendency to be a bit prickly, generally has the goods. He knows a lot more than most groups of posters combined.
  8. I

    Sleeve Cap Puckering

    I like it too, even though it is gray. :)
  9. I

    Sleeve Cap Puckering

    Usually it comes from too tight a shoulder or sleeves that are hung wrong for the wearer. The first isn't fixable, the second is, but it isn't easy to do.
  10. I

    Sleeve Cap Puckering

    Basically what Tomasso said. Anything horizontal is automatically wrong, and vertical puckering depends on intent. Brioni does not, as far as I know, intend to have puckering on their sleeve caps. It is not their way.
  11. I

    Quality of manufacture for leather coats?

    Well, they are the highest quality. Whether that makes them the best for any one use is up to the user. Fashion or not, they are absolute classics and the leather goods stand up to a lot of wear and tear often outliving some of the stuff you are suggesting. As for your comment above that...
  13. I

    Quality of manufacture for leather coats?

    Anybody who has taken the time to look and touch Hermes products, from their scarves to the wallets to their leather jackets, knows that the quality is there. Even their competitors readily acknowledge that there is no higher quality manufacturer than Hermes, and when they buy from other shops...
  14. I

    They just don't compare

    I have no idea why, as I know little about tailoring history, and less about the culture and historical culture of Londoners. To my mind, drape can be included in a suit that is quite trim or fitted or whatever, they problem is, for me, that the British don't see it that way. Here is a picture...
  15. I

    that quarter inch machine stitch

    I have all of my sportcoats and some casual suits made with a swelled edge, but the inner stitch is done by hand rather than machine. The look is similar, but the stitching is less noticeable. Any thoughts as to when this came about and its relation to the 1/4 in. machine stitch. Mine are...
  16. I

    'Fishtail' waist

    One should make sure to keep their jacket on at all times when wearing these. I cannot think of a more disturbing site in the world of men's clothing, though I am sure that they are very comfortable.
  17. I

    Good looking boaters that won't break the bank?

    Boaters are generally pretty cheap, and almost always under $150. On the downside, they don't look good in today's world, no matter how much you (or I) might like them in theory.
  19. I

    They just don't compare

    I wouldn't blame that on drape as much as on atrocious fitting. I have to agree that very few English suits nowadays look very good to me, but I haven't seen enough old ones to know what they are like. Nevertheless, there are good tailors outside of England, which is good because there aren't...
  20. I

    Show Us Your OVERCOATS

    It is probably late '80s or early '90s, but very nice nonetheless.
  21. I

    Show us your suits

    Yeah, nice looking suit. I don't know if it is that you are leaning forward, but you might want to get the jacket collar tightened up a touch.
  22. I

    They just don't compare

    I agree, and since I think of most things in relation to my own build, that is why I don't like them. My shoulders are already to wide and square for something like that effect to be positive. On the other hand, I do like them on SB peak lapels, even though SBPL is not a style I would wear...
  23. I

    They just don't compare

    It's funny. My tailor had an entire bolt of this fabric, and found it hard to sell. He said that most people looking for vintage fabric only wanted British goods, and since this was Italian, people passed. The fabric itself is as nice and sturdy as I have ever seen, but it is slightly warm...

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