1920s suits

[herringbonekid]

There seeems to have been a matter of having as many pleats as possible one some of those 20s jackets.

you've got an empty area ? throw some pleats on it.
the 30s weren't pleat-shy either:

this could be the winner though, for sheer number:

 

[Qirrel]

I wonder if pleats will come back to the contemporary tailoring scene. Has anyone seen modern jackets with action backs, front pleats or anything of the like?

 

[herringbonekid]

I wonder if pleats will come back to the contemporary tailoring scene. Has anyone seen modern jackets with action backs, front pleats or anything of the like?

aside from RL, and the other few niche 'vintage inspired' brands, no.

 

[Fastuni]

Wow! Is this yours, HBK?

[QUOTE="herringbonekid]

[/QUOTE]

 

[herringbonekid]

Wow! Is this yours, HBK?

no, i think it belonged to Lucky Kat who sold it a while ago on ebay.
it's interesting how it has the same features as many early 20s jackets (including the stitched down belt which seems to have largely disappeared by the 30s-40s) but the proportions are so different.

edit (i think it's late 40s rather than 30s as i stated above. my mistake).

 

[dh66]

This is FANTASTIC!! One of the sharpest jackets I have ever seen, and I'll freely admit that I normally don't care much for belted styles.

 

[Dostioffsky]

And I watched another Harold Lloyd film (they are really great!) This time A sailor-made man from 1921.

This time I noticed a pretty interesting belted double-breasted suit with rather wide lapels (almost touching the shoulder). I am not a 100% sure the picture of the back is the same suit, but I think it must be.

It is quite reminiscent of this illustration:

(the text under this one mentions that you can also choose for a belt 'worn inside' ...)

 

[herringbonekid]

(the text under this one mentions that you can also choose for a belt 'worn inside' ...)

it seems that some jackets had a slit through which you could pass the front of the belt:

 

[Fastuni]

Russian 20's suits:

Pasternak and Mayakovsky (2nd from left and 3rd from right) in this group photo:

Source: subscribe.ru/group/chelovek-priroda-vselennaya/3783913/

 

[Quetzal]

you've got an empty area ? throw some pleats on it.
the 30s weren't pleat-shy either:

this could be the winner though, for sheer number:

That coat, or at least its back, in the catalog scan has been copied in the 1970s; that very high vent, the very narrow belt, and especially those pleats and the straight yoke. I even saw a brown suit at a flea market with that exact back; it fit, but unfortunately was of polyester and the pants had many holes. With respect to the 1970s, I personally don't mind suits made in that era; they just need to be 100% wool, which are not as hard to find as one might think. For me, the problem is size.

-Quetzal

 

[Quetzal]

it seems that some jackets had a slit through which you could pass the front of the belt:

Yes; many suits, especially before the Crash, were advertised as having a removable belt, an attached belt (like a Norfolk coat), or a Half-Belt. There were, however, "Conservative Sacks" sold in this time (the typical ventless, three-pocket front), along with what were considered "regular" suits such as this example.

-Quetzal

 

[herringbonekid]

...an attached belt (like a Norfolk coat)

most Norfolks have a removable belt, not an attached belt.

There were, however, "Conservative Sacks" sold in this time (the typical ventless, three-pocket front)

i think you mean 'dartless' rather than 'ventless'. also, the term 'sack' was used for all types of jackets during the teens and early 20s, not just dartless fronts.

along with what were considered "regular" suits such as this example.

that's far from a 'regular' suit. it's from a page entitled 'Young Men's "Specials" Fashion Novelties'...

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...k-A-Jack-tailoring-catalog&highlight=danforth


sorry to get pedantic.

 

[Papperskatt]

 

[Quetzal]

most Norfolks have a removable belt, not an attached belt.



i think you mean 'dartless' rather than 'ventless'. also, the term 'sack' was used for all types of jackets during the teens and early 20s, not just dartless fronts.



that's far from a 'regular' suit. it's from a page entitled 'Young Men's "Specials" Fashion Novelties'...

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...k-A-Jack-tailoring-catalog&highlight=danforth


sorry to get pedantic.

No, not at all; I'd rather be corrected than remain ignorant. I did not know that Norfolks had a removable belt, and yes, the term "sack" described any suit coat if it were not a Frock or a Cutaway. That link was very cool; those suits with sporty features were much more common compared to today's typical darted, three-pocket (two flap, one an inside ******) fronts (which is where I got the notion that that particular cut was "Conservative" at that time) which is what I meant by "regular" suits.

-Quetzal

 

[Burma Schave]

no, i think it belonged to Lucky Kat who sold it a while ago on ebay.
it's interesting how it has the same features as many early 20s jackets (including the stitched down belt which seems to have largely disappeared by the 30s-40s) but the proportions are so different.

edit (i think it's late 40s rather than 30s as i stated above. my mistake).

Yes, it's late '40s. This jacket (part of a suit, but the trousers are long gone) was made for a Hollywood film production: almost certainly a movie which took place in the 'teens. During and after WWII, Hollywood studios churned out dozens of nostalgic odes to the turn of the 20th century.

 

[Fastuni]

Gerhardt, Ernst Otto ca. 1925, Photo by Otto Kühn
http://www.deutschefotothek.de/documents/obj/87801533

Prof. Fritz Beckert, Architect
Photo by Richter, Ursula, ca. 1930
http://www.deutschefotothek.de/documents/obj/90023012

 

[herringbonekid]

jazz suit from Montgomery Ward, Spring - Summer 1924:

 

[Claudio]

bell bottoms in the early 20's? thats a new one for me - thanks HBK

 

[Fastuni]

That bowtie is tiny!

 

[herringbonekid]

bell bottoms in the early 20's? thats a new one for me - thanks HBK

yeah, there's none in my catalogues from 20-23 so this could be the first outing.

in case anyone is wondering if i'd wear that suit (or recreate it)... no i wouldn't.
jazz suits pretty much stand on the outer-limit of wearability for me, and the addition of flares (shudder) pushes it well over.
i post it here for historical interest.