1930s Woolrich Zipper/Label Dating

[Xopher]

Howdy gang.

I’m a Woolrich nut. I grew up about 2 miles from the town of Woolrich and had many friends who worked the mill before it closed.

Needless to say I have an intense appreciation of this iconic clothing from essentially my home town.

I know there have been label dating guides in the past, but many of them just say early/mid/late 1930s &40s.

I have been building a very sizable collection of Pre-WWII Woolrich over the years and will continue to. I’m always in the market to buy pre war Woolrich.

Using the date stamps on the talon zippers and comparing them to the labels, I feel absolutely certain I’ve been able to pin down the exact years of the label changes, and hopefully can help pinpoint further the date of these garments.

I’ll begin by posting each garment, complete with zipper pull shapes, date stamps, and label variations. They will be in multiple posts on this thread because there are many.

I hope y’all find this as interesting and illuminating as I did.

If you have prewar Woolrich garments with zippers and labels, I welcome you to share and add to this collection of information.

Thank you and stay tuned.

 

[Xopher]

Jacket: Model 545
Zipper: Triple Marked Talon
Zipper Date: D1 (April 1941)
Label: Green border w/o “ALL WOOL”
Snaps: Deco United Carr

This is the original zipper in this coat. Based on the stamp on the zipper, this coat cannot be older than April 1941.

Conclusions:
This Green Border Label without “All Wool” was used up until 1941.

In 1942 Woolrich switched to the white border labels. All Woolrich jackets and pants I’ve seen with model M-42 Talon zippers had White Border Labels.

The Deco designed United Carrs snaps were also used until 1941.

I have seen no deco design snaps on white border Woolrich coats or pants.

 

[Xopher]

Second Example

Jacket: Model 545
Zipper: Triple Marked Talon
Zipper Date: F-1 (June 1941)
Snaps: Deco United Carr
Buckles: Deco Design
Label: Green Border w/o “All Wool”

I have since removed the zipper and replaced it with a Waldes Reproduction, but I did save the zipper and took a photo to share.

 

[Xopher]

Third Example

Jacket: Model 534

Main Zipper: Triple Marked Talon
Main Zipper Date: A0 (January 1940)

Pocket Zipper: Double Marked Slider
Pocket Zipper Chain Date: G5 (July 1935)
Buckles: Deco Design
Label: Green Border ALL WOOL

All Zippers and Labels are original to this jacket.

Based on the main zipper this jacket can be no older than January 1940.

The pocket zipper chain is dated July 1935, so I suspect it was a deadstock zipper used in production and in 1940.

I believe the Green Border ALL WOOL label was used up to and no later than 1940.

 

[Xopher]

Fourth Example

Jacket: Model 534 (Older)
Main Zipper: Grommet Talon
Main Zipper Date: Unmarked
Pocket Zipper: Deco Talon
Pocket Zipper Date: B8 (February 1938)
Label: Green Border ALL WOOL
Buckle: Deco Design

All hardware is original.
Based on the pocket zipper date, this jacket can be no older than February 1938.

Conclusions:
Grommet closure zippers were used until 1938.

The Green Border ALL WOOL Label dates back to at least 1938 (I suspect 1937 to be the translation year, more on that later) and was phased out by 1940 giving way to the greens border version Without “All Wool”

 

[Xopher]

Fifth Example

Pants
Leg Zippers: Talon Fan
Leg Zipper Dates: A6 (January 1936)
Fly Zipper: First Model Auto Lock Talon
Fly Zipper Date: D5 (April 1935)
Buttons: Riveted ALL WOOL
Label: Green Border Profile Sheep

All hardware and labels are original.

Based on the leg zippers, these pants can be no older than January 1936.

The fly zipper is an example of the first Talon Auto Lock slider which was developed in 1932 but production ranged from 1933-1937.

Given that the fly zip dates 1935 and the leg zips date 1936, I believe these pants to be 1936 and not 1937 due to all three zippers dating between April 1935-January 1936

 

[Xopher]

Labels:
White Border Label
Dates 1942-1945

Green Border without “ALL WOOL”
Dates 1940-1941

Green Border with “ALL WOOL”
Dates 1937-1940

Green Border Sheep Profile
Dates 1933-1936

Zippers:
Grommeted separating Zippers begin use on Woolrich jackets around 1933 and end 1938

Stopper Box zippers begin 1939 with the Triple Marked Talon model M39
Triple Marked Talon M39 zipper are used on Woolrich from 1939 until about 1942.

Fabric:
The dye lots on Woolrich Hunting clothing tends to be more Deep Red or Maroon colored until 1938.

After 1938 the color shifts to more of a Bright Red.

Beginning 1943 Woolrich alters their weaving process of the wool to incorporate recycled Wool, as well as decreasing the weight and thickness of the wool due to wartime shortages. This new wool has a different plaid pattern and is a temporary war measure that lasts until 1945. The Emergency Garment Label is developed using this wool.

Hardware:
Deco Design United Carr Snaps used until 1941

Smooth Snaps and buckles used from 1942-1943

Woolrich temporary discontinues the use of snaps, buckles, and zippers on civilian clothing from 1943-1945 due to wartime metal shortages.

 

[tmitchell59]

Impressive thread! When I get my questions together I will be back.

Dating the grommet zippers is new to me. I have some, but not wool

I will post a fan shaped Talon in wool, no label. Interested in your thoughts

Thanks for the effort!

 

[Xopher]

1920s Woolrich Ad from when they still called themselves John Rich & Brothers.

 

[Xopher]

Late 1920s early 1930s

 

[Xopher]

1943 WWII Woolrich Advertisement

 

[Xopher]

Letter Code guide for dating 1930s Talon Zippers

The letters an accompanied with a number indicating the year.
For example…. “D4” would indicate April 1934 as seen on this Talon Fan Zipper.

Locations are usually on the bottom of the stopper box, the starter pin on grommet zippers, or the stopper crimp on non-separating zippers.

I have only found this dating method on zippers dating between 1930-1942.
I don’t have any examples of earlier zippers to check to see if these dating stamps extend into the 1920s

 

[tmitchell59]

I never looked for date codes on the grommet zippers. I will tomorrow. Thanks for that picture.

This is the last of the Sunrise boxes. Stamped for 1943 with corresponding V stamped pulls. These are pot metal parts.

During the war the new stop, with Talon down the middle begins. It is seen with a variety of pulls.