5* 1950’s All Weather Half belt repro seal brown goat

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by ton312, Oct 23, 2020.

  1. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    10,937
    Location:
    Chicago
    Caught a little break in the gloom and really wanted to post some at least half way decent pics of this jacket along with my thoughts on the build. I’ll update with better pics tomorrow but had to put something together for this jacket as it really is a gem imho.

    First thing I want to say is that I believe Five Star makes a great jacket. I won’t compare it to Aero or any of the other high end, top dollar makers. I don’t think that is fair and there really is no point. The important point is simply that the jacket materials, construction and fit are all good! The appeal for me with 5 star is my ability to influence the design, completely tailor the fit, and have it turned around for a relatively small amount of money in a very short amount of time. I have hundreds of images of vintage jackets that I would like to have built. This process with Shawn brings a huge smile to my face.

    I provided the following size information to Shawn to guide the build:
    Neck hole diameter: 18”
    Shoulders: 19”
    Chest p2p: 22.5”
    Waist:20.5”
    Hem:21”
    Sleeve:26.5” (Outseam)
    Sleeve: 19” (inseam/pit to cuff)-high armhole
    Bicep:8.5”
    Elbow:7”
    Cuff:6”
    Armscye: 11”
    1” front drop
    26” back length
    4.5” collar point (wide collar)
    The jacket is based on this extinct vintage Halfbelt:
    C8FF1800-CE43-4951-B51C-9B5BC4CAF86A.jpeg BFD229B1-E199-4A4B-9C7D-C9E404B8A0B4.jpeg
    my jacket is seal brown premium goatskin, with poly satin seal brown liner and thread. I took the liberty of adding ornamental horn buttons to the cuff, which are standard with olive green storm cuffs.
    25F80C10-1EAC-4B57-8A90-FDB60295BB64.jpeg 3D4FAD23-34D2-4C98-8FB9-5884AF25AF8F.jpeg A9EBBF29-39EB-437F-BCAE-0636ABD1DDF6.jpeg
    And some fit pics:
    D04FE14B-B427-44A0-9B26-ECDDFF02A3C6.jpeg 1D00B537-D447-47CC-842C-F5B8C42CBAFE.jpeg 921F85B2-2F61-459D-AFF4-7EDBB9A681A1.jpeg 0B8425E9-89AA-49E0-BBE1-3B4901A8AA3D.jpeg

    I am thoroughly delighted with the end result and look forward to additional reproduction projects with 5 Star going forward! I will upload some better shots of the jacket in the coming days. Have a great weekend loungers!
     
  2. lina

    lina Practically Family

    Messages:
    671
    Location:
    Washington DC
    Very nice!
     
    ton312 likes this.
  3. TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

    TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead A-List Customer

    Messages:
    338
    Cha-ching.

    Goat definitely the way to go. I like the steer one I got, but even from just the samples, goat clearly is their sweet spot.

    Definitely getting that other jacket first helped you refine all the measurements. So crucial. It's going to be second skin like crazy because you're basically already there with a couple hours wear. Nuts!!! I got lucky with the fit on my first try. Fits me almost perfectly. Just the sleeves a tad bit short, but I guess that's also a design choice/preference not necessarily a shortfall.

    But yeah, wow, fantastic jacket.
     
    ton312 likes this.
  4. Marc mndt

    Marc mndt One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,146
    The collar is so cool! I also like the addition of the two buttons on the cuffs. I think that completes the vintage look. Perfect fit. I think Shawn raised his own bar with this one.
     
    JoeNiblick and ton312 like this.
  5. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    10,937
    Location:
    Chicago
    Thanks man. I’d be interested in seeing the black goat. Can you upload a pic?
     
  6. Psant25

    Psant25 One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,026
    Wow that is a perfect fit! Love that style. How close did all the measurements come out?
     
  7. MrProper

    MrProper Practically Family

    Messages:
    584
    Congratulations. Very well done.
    And the best thing is, I just need to give shawn your measurements and lengthen the body and sleeves and it should fit. LOL
    Of all the 5 * jackets I have, I like seal brown heavy goat best.
    In the VLJ I read that Shawn had developed special goatskin and colors for the A-2 jackets. The first pictures look promising.
     
    Mrfrown, Zoo and ton312 like this.
  8. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    10,937
    Location:
    Chicago
    100% spot on perfect. Literally no deviation.
     
    Carlos840 and Psant25 like this.
  9. TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead

    TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead A-List Customer

    Messages:
    338
    I only have the sample. My jacket was Seal Brown Premium Steer. Like I said, it's nice. Kind of one dimensional though and it seems to be chipping pretty easily with a lighter brown underneath. Not necessarily bad, will create some cool aging.

    I asked for other samples of the sheepskin and buffalo, but he never sent them. So can't comment on those. But this black goat sample looks real good. Little bit stretchy but tough. It's black all the way through. In comparison to the Seal Brown goat sample, the black is a lot more "pebble". Don't know if it's just the pieces I got or overall that's how it tans with the top coat or whatever.

    [​IMG]
     
    marker2037, Zoo and ton312 like this.
  10. Boyo

    Boyo One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,755
    Location:
    Long Island NY
    Right on Tony, that's a great looking & fitting jacket!.
    I think you say it perfectly, if you want to reproduce something otherwise unavailable, and take the time to dial in all the measurements, add a few design choices. Five Star is the right place at the right price!
     
    Hobbes1, ton312 and Psant25 like this.
  11. Ayeteael

    Ayeteael Familiar Face

    Messages:
    97
    Location:
    Atlanta
    Fantastic jacket. 5 Star hits the sweet spot in terms of jacket customizations+price point+execution. They have broken the age-old adage of pick 2: good, fast, cheap. There are certainly better finished jackets out there with better leather offerings, but at a 4x premium, minimum. For this discerning crowd, I think 5 Star is best for those who want the option of customizing jacket patterns.
     
    Mrfrown and ton312 like this.
  12. Psant25

    Psant25 One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,026
    Wow that is crazy. Did you need to explain how u measured some of those or do they show it on their site? I have not checked them out too much might need to
     
    ton312 likes this.
  13. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    10,937
    Location:
    Chicago
    I sent photos of a jacket I had measured for reference and he matched them. I received photos of all the measurements I provided on the finished jacket prior to having it shipped.
     
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  14. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    10,937
    Location:
    Chicago
    Yes! Exactly this.
     
  15. Psant25

    Psant25 One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,026
    That is pretty amazing. Blows the fit jacket process away I think. If someone knows what they want that is measurement wise
     
    ton312 likes this.
  16. Carlos840

    Carlos840 My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,415
    Location:
    London
    That really looks good!
    At least from the pictures it doesn't look like a 300$ jacket, it fits and looks better than more expensive jackets i have seen around here.
    I don't think you have ever gotten such high value/fit for the money in any other jacket i have seen you post before.
    It's also really cool that you have found "your thing". Do you already have a No2 planned? Or is it too soon?
    Now i really hope we are not going to start seeing a bunch of custom 5 Star jackets/Ton 312 Collabs in the classified soon...

    Edit: where are they made? Pakistan was it?
     
    navetsea, El Marro, torfjord and 2 others like this.
  17. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    10,937
    Location:
    Chicago
    I have up to 100 made in my mind! LOL. Yes, made in Pakistan, about a two week turn-around from concept to delivery.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2020
    Psant25 and Carlos840 like this.
  18. Carlos840

    Carlos840 My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,415
    Location:
    London
    The only constructive criticisme i have would be to have these seams double stitched rather than single stitched on the next one:

    [​IMG]

    IMO the single folded stitch there is the only whif of cheapness i can see on there.
    If that was top stitched like on the OG it would be a 10/10 jacket.
    Other than that small crazy nerd detail you really nailed it, well done.
     
    Cornelius, Monitor and ton312 like this.
  19. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    10,937
    Location:
    Chicago
    Yes I noticed that too, it’s interesting b/c my first jacket had two panel sleeves, which I prefer even more.
     
    Mich486 likes this.
  20. Boyo

    Boyo One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,755
    Location:
    Long Island NY
    I can see a Ton312 x Carlos840 collaboration happening soon...
     
    Mrfrown, jonesy86, Cornelius and 6 others like this.

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