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5* Shearling, mix of D-1, B-3, Trucker

MrProper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,994
Location
Europe
The big advantage of 5 * is that you can be inspired by any jacket, "design" your desired model and then have it made based on photos and drawings. I.e. there is the possibility of having unique jackets made that are not otherwise available and that according to your own measurements.

The basis for my 5* shearling was the following jacket, which I found here in the forum or on Pinterest (don't remember exactly). I think this is an old modified D-1. I find most of the normal D-1's (except for the Aero Redskin) a bit boring.
80B5D37B-2D89-4ED7-8898-03889FC1B623.jpeg

Some time ago, 5* invested effort in organizing good sheepskin so that B-3 and D-1 jackets that are largely true to the original can be produced. This is currently only available in seal brown.

But I figured this could be a good base for my jacket. Since my Coastal Command has no pockets, the new jacket should have some. I was inspired by the following trucker jacket.

ACC62273-F258-4E01-8E35-0FB8D40DE584.jpeg

Original instructions:
————-
Shearling 10mm (not the thickness of the B3), seal brown, with seal brown reinforcements.
Small collar, more like D1 instead of B3. See photos of the front.
The fur on the waistband and sleeves is not turned inside out. If so, then just a little and shaved. See the pictures of the front.
Side adjusters not at the waistband, but at waist height (approx. 18 cm from below). See photos of the front.
Side adjusters with buckles with thorn. Like the straps on the collar of a D1/B3. See photos of the front.
Pocket setup like the trucker jacket in the photo.
The back of the jacket as from the B3 in the photo of the back.
Buttons: I would still try the turn buttons because they look the coolest. I think if they are riveted well, it should hold up well. Should I then find better ones, I could always exchange them.
Dimensions are all shown on the photos (front and back).

Please feel free and ask, if I wrote something that could be misunderstood or if something is unclear for other reasons. I know, written communication is not as easy.
It is important to adhere to the dimensions. The dimensions are maximum values.
The armholes shouldn't be too big and the sleeves shouldn't be too tight. I took the measurements from my other shearling jacket.
I will also be happy to send you a picture where you can see how the measuring tape is positioned should this help.

C0250AFF-822A-49AF-861F-BA8B3E833AF7.jpeg E4721050-34C3-4D03-BA61-9CDEEB23C2CF.jpeg F147E504-B41C-4EEF-B346-989610A289F8.jpeg
——-

One day later I added this, what I got confirmed.:
Maybe it is possible to make the straps on the collar and for the side adjusters from your belt straps? I think this will look very nice with the thick 3.5mm leather.

Luckily Shawn was able to organize the turn buttons and do a first test with the sheepskin. It turned out that the leather is too soft for it and there is a risk that it is not stable enough.

I then briefly considered whether classic metal buttons might also work, but then decided against it because I wanted to stick to the original as much as possible. What followed was the idea of making reinforcements under the buttons in order to get the desired stability. I had different variants in mind and got advice here in the forum. At the time, I didn't really know whether I would like the chosen solution.

A few more emails and pictures followed with small corrections and clarifications regarding the reinforcements for the buttons and an adjustment of the length to 69 cm.

The first pattern of the collar was clearly too narrow with 6 cm. I corrected this to the 10 cm of the D-1 jacket. Good thing Shawn had sent a photo so I could see it.

The next point in question was then the reinforcements on the second sleeve seam. Since all the seams on my Aero have this reinforcement, I thought it would be easy to get this too. It isn't it. Shawn then wanted to buy a special sewing machine, which I didn't want and gave the open seam the OK. Like the normal D-1s too.

The pocket flap should be made of the same leather as the rest of the jacket. I don't know why, but the flaps got too thick, even though they looked good. The width of the reinforcements would no longer have been sufficient. But I also didn't want broader reinforcements. Various other ideas were unsatisfactory. Ultimately, the simplest solution was to make the flaps from the cowhide of the reinforcements.

What did I get now?
The look of the jacket is now exactly the same as it was ordered, but there are deviations in the details.

The sheepskin is lighter than I thought, but it feels good. I also like it optically. 10 mm sounds like a lot, but it feels less. But it matches the style of the jacket and so I can not only wear it in arctic temperatures. For lack of a clue, I can't say much about the quality. I can't compare it to my Aero either because it's a different fur.

The reinforcements are sewn perfectly, the pockets basically as I wanted them to be. However, I would have assumed that only the sheared leather is used for the breast pockets and not that there is still fur inside. Let's see if I can somehow thin it out myself.

The fur on the hem is not sheared as it was intended. But I had already seen that in Shawn's photos and didn't want to take any risk that something might go wrong while making repairs. It shouldn't be a problem that I do this myself later.

The straps are unfortunately not made of the belt leather and the buckle looks very flimmsy. It's ok at the moment, but maybe I'll replace it myself later. The cut of the strap on the neck doesn't look professional and I would have expected more. However, it is only noticeable on closer inspection.

The measurements are well kept except for the waistband. So I wanted 52 cm and got 55 cm. In the photos of Shawn, however, 52 cm was visible. I'm afraid that the measurements will simply be sloppy.

The straps are measured from below at the desired point, measured from above there is a difference of a few mm between the left and the right. You won't notice it when wearing it, but when you look closely you will.

When I saw the first pictures of the leather, I was enthusiastic, but less after the first pictures of the jacket. But the more I looked at it, the more I liked it. But I only had moderate expectations of how it would look dressed ... and was very positively surprised. I really like it.

I would wish from 5* that the quality control works more reliably or that the own demand for perfection is higher. Just as is the case with flight jackets.
My recommendation is that all specifications must be correct the first time you order. Correcting something afterwards can prove unsuccessful. Language barriers and email communication don't make it any easier.

At $ 560 including shipping, it is the most expensive jacket that I have from 5*. Would I order them again for the money? Probably yes, because I get a unique piece with it, which of the details is the way I want it. And it is fun to create the own jacket with Shawn.
With a standard D-1 I would accept the extra price and buy an Aero Redskin.

All in all, I'm satisfied and I think that once the jacket is worn in, it will look pretty cool and be ready for any use.

Pictures see next post...
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,944
Location
London
That really looks cool.
I didn't like the pockets when i saw the floor pics, but on the fit pics they really look fine.
You really did a great job designing this.
How are the toggles? Do they feel sturdy? How are they in use compared to buttons?
 

MrProper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,994
Location
Europe
That really looks cool.
I didn't like the pockets when i saw the floor pics, but on the fit pics they really look fine.
You really did a great job designing this.
How are the toggles? Do they feel sturdy? How are they in use compared to buttons?

Thank you.
The same thing happened to me with the pockets and the picture on the floor :D
The buttons are tough enough for a jacket, I would say. Usually tarpaulins are buttoned up with it. But I assume that there are more valuable ones to buy.
For me they are fine for now.
I think the advantage of this jacket is that imperfection is not a disadvantage.
 

CBI

One Too Many
Messages
1,419
Location
USA
that's pretty amazing work and price on/for a totally from scratch/custom design jacket. I am sure it will look much better worn in!
 

Hobbes1

A-List Customer
Messages
389
I like this jacket quite a bit. I typically don't care for the WWII style shearlings with the huge collars as they almost always seem so large and overpowering on nearly everyone who tries to wear them. Those jackets were designed for a vastly different purpose than people now are using them. On the other hand, a jacket like your new 5* seems more like a nice leather jacket that happens to have a warm, shearling lining. It "fits" in other words, the style of modern leather jackets. I might be tempted myself. Well done!
 

Cornelius

Practically Family
Messages
715
Location
Great Lakes
Again, absolutely perfect fit. Might be interesting to attempt a version of this that leans more towards an ANJ4, with horsehide or goatskin trim at cuffs, waistband, and outside panel of sleeves; 2-way zipper closure, and as the Frankenstein element, erase the chest pockets, add large (smartphone-sized) D-pocket on left chest.
 

CBI

One Too Many
Messages
1,419
Location
USA
Hey, the jacket looks even better at a distance if you know what I mean. For those folks addicted to super high-end details, material and HIGH prices.... with a little space and leaving the electron microscope at home, these jackets look fab and make possibly the most "sense" financially. Not that this was in-expensive but.......... again, once well-worn in only the most picky or jaded jacket nerd would NOT be happy. I'll bet the hide will wear-in really well. to be clear, the close up pics also looked excellent to me.
 

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