Advice on custom Aero (Ridley)

[marauf]

oh wow lol ... that's near identical .. wth.

 

[marauf]

You're reading too much into those numbers.

This is me in a Ridley with 6" of chest space.

This is MrProper in a Ridley with 3.5" of chest space.

The fit is comparable. I think this is just down to how 3D jacket patterns are. The numbers don't tell us everything.

@Aloysius ... what hide do you have there?

The rec's I've received from Aero:

size up to 40 if want to keep the Cordovan FQHH. It will be comfortable.
if want to keep 38 .. then go with a tumbled FQHH.

 

[Aloysius]

@Aloysius ... what hide do you have there?

The rec's I've received from Aero:

size up to 40 if want to keep the Cordovan FQHH. It will be comfortable.
if want to keep 38 .. then go with a tumbled FQHH.

Both of our jackets are blackened brown Vicenza, but they look different because MrProper’s has an unusually thin topcoat, so it looks almost brown.

Personally if I were doing it again I would go for black Jerky, which is similar but I like the handle of it better. It’s very much like a real 1930s-50s horsehide.

I would definitely go tumbled CXL horse over non-tumbled for a this kind of jacket. You won’t lose the chance to make your own patina; you’ll just spare arm pain lol.

 

[marauf]

Both of our jackets are blackened brown Vicenza, but they look different because MrProper’s has an unusually thin topcoat, so it looks almost brown.

Personally if I were doing it again I would go for black Jerky, which is similar but I like the handle of it better. It’s very much like a real 1930s-50s horsehide.

I would definitely go tumbled CXL horse over non-tumbled for a this kind of jacket. You won’t lose the chance to make your own patina; you’ll just spare arm pain lol.

Thanks @Aloysius ... I appreciate it.


I think I'll do the tumbled 38. I am reading over seems like this fqhh is super stiff stuff. Kind of like breaking in a 25oz denim ... I was also considering the badalassi russet in that but don't like the upcharge on that ... hmm

 

[MrProper]

I was also considering the badalassi russet in that but don't like the upcharge on that

Then think about CXSH. I personally like it better than CXFQHH and it's more comfortable to wear. Of course, this is only possible if the desired colour is available.

 

[marauf]

Thx @MrProper ... glad I discussed my emergency with the Jacket lords lol

Chloe from aero sent me shoulder measurements for the 38 and it seems like 38 will be snug ... 40 seems to be calling.

 

[MrProper]

Thx @MrProper ... glad I discussed my emergency with the Jacket lords lol

Chloe from aero sent me shoulder measurements for the 38 and it seems like 38 will be snug ... 40 seems to be calling.

The "problem" with Aero is that the dimensions of the standard sizes are only rough estimates and can vary. In addition, Aero reserves the right to deviate up to 0.5" upwards or downwards.
The advantage of a jacket with standard measurements is that you can send it back if in doubt.

To get a feel for the measurements of a size, I often look at the measurements at thurston Bros for the stock items.

 

[Aloysius]

Thx @MrProper ... glad I discussed my emergency with the Jacket lords lol

Chloe from aero sent me shoulder measurements for the 38 and it seems like 38 will be snug ... 40 seems to be calling.

I went 42 because the shoulders were just too small on the size 40 Ridley. With your plan of getting CXL, definitely go with the 40 unless you want to cry lol.

 

[marauf]

The "problem" with Aero is that the dimensions of the standard sizes are only rough estimates and can vary. In addition, Aero reserves the right to deviate up to 0.5" upwards or downwards.
The advantage of a jacket with standard measurements is that you can send it back if in doubt.

To get a feel for the measurements of a size, I often look at the measurements at thurston Bros for the stock items.

yea I've been looking there not too many ridleys ... but the ones that are there I get a sense of the numbers. I am getting confirmation from aero about shoulder measurements in the tumbled cxfqhh ... let's what those numbers look like.

do I have this accurate .. breaking in fqhh is like breaking in a 25oz denim?

the CXSH is quite meaty ... 1.7mm boi ...

 

[marauf]

I went 42 because the shoulders were just too small on the size 40 Ridley. With your plan of getting CXL, definitely go with the 40 unless you want to cry lol.

Yea, I am glad I asked for the shoulder measurements ... a 38 is 17.5 shoulders ... my good jacket is 18 in the shoulders and it's not FQHH. That will make me look like wearing a kid's jacket with the seam sitting in on the inner shoulder vs. more centered or sitting outer. Not to mention a tighter pit. The 40 size is 18.5 in the shoulders which makes more sense .. and will sit more centered.

About to cut the cake here pretty soon ...

 

[MrProper]

the CXSH is quite meaty ... 1.7mm boi ...

lol
Yes, it may be, but it softens quickly and is really comfortable to wear. But I've only had experience with one jacket in CXSH, so I don't know if it's the same for everyone. But if I wanted black or brown, I would always go for CXSH instead of CXFQHH.
I don't like thin, soft leather, but I really like thick, soft leather ;-)

 

[marauf]

lol
Yes, it may be, but it softens quickly and is really comfortable to wear. But I've only had experience with one jacket in CXSH, so I don't know if it's the same for everyone. But if I wanted black or brown, I would always go for CXSH instead of CXFQHH.
I don't like thin, soft leather, but I really like thick, soft leather ;-)

I just seen your highway man in Cordovan CXSH ... looks great!

 

[nattevagten]

I think I'll do the tumbled 38. I am reading over seems like this fqhh is super stiff stuff. Kind of like breaking in a 25oz denim ... I was also considering the badalassi russet in that but don't like the upcharge on that ... hmm

I have handled three new FQHH jackets over the past 2-3 years. Only one of them (the one I kept, premier HB in FQHH) was slightly stiff during the first few days, but the jacket was broken in after two weeks' time. Now it's almost as soft as Schott's steerhide. Breaking in a 1.8-2.0 mm CXL steerhide jacket took almost a year, though. Never again.

 

[MrProper]

Breaking in a 1.8-2.0 mm CXL steerhide jacket took almost a year, though.

Then the batches seem to be more different than assumed. For me it was the other way round.

 

[nattevagten]

Then the batches seem to be more different than assumed. For me it was the other way round.

I have read some user reports that the more recent CXL steerhide batches have been a lot thinner (at c. 1.3 mm) compared to the standard 1.75 mm thickness, which might explain why you found your jacket easy to break in. At 1.75-2 mm, a jacket will essentially never become that soft/pliable simply due to the immense thickness.

 

[MrProper]

I have read some user reports that the more recent CXL steerhide batches have been a lot thinner (at c. 1.3 mm) compared to the standard 1.75 mm thickness, which might explain why you found your jacket easy to break in. At 1.75-2 mm, a jacket will essentially never become that soft/pliable simply due to the immense thickness.

I'm not sure if I agree with that. Unfortunately, I don't have a measuring instrument here to measure the thickness.
But the Cordovan CXSH feels slightly thicker than my black Badalassi (for which I had ordered extra thick hide), thicker than my chestnut Badalassi and significantly thicker than my Vicenza.
I therefore assume that it is more than 1.3 mm.
In any case, my FQHH was definitely not thicker than the CXSH at the time.
But never mind, since you can't compare the batches anyway, it's all speculation.

 

[marauf]

I'm not sure if I agree with that. Unfortunately, I don't have a measuring instrument here to measure the thickness.
But the Cordovan CXSH feels slightly thicker than my black Badalassi (for which I had ordered extra thick hide), thicker than my chestnut Badalassi and significantly thicker than my Vicenza.
I therefore assume that it is more than 1.3 mm.
In any case, my FQHH was definitely not thicker than the CXSH at the time.
But never mind, since you can't compare the batches anyway, it's all speculation.

you've got me thinking now ... hmm .. 40 in a CXSH ... meaty and soft(ish).

 

[marauf]

I'm not sure if I agree with that. Unfortunately, I don't have a measuring instrument here to measure the thickness.
But the Cordovan CXSH feels slightly thicker than my black Badalassi (for which I had ordered extra thick hide), thicker than my chestnut Badalassi and significantly thicker than my Vicenza.
I therefore assume that it is more than 1.3 mm.
In any case, my FQHH was definitely not thicker than the CXSH at the time.
But never mind, since you can't compare the batches anyway, it's all speculation.

I think I will do a J100 in black steer at some point ... will stick with tumbled on this .. decision made. phew.