Advice request; First Thurston Bros custom Aero

[blobsterroll]

Hello everyone,

In my search for my Buy It For Life jacket, and many failures, I have decided to go the custom route.

Ms. Carrie was kind enough to suggest a Ridley jacket with a three pocket configuration. So I coughed up the cash, put my Deviant on sale at the classifieds and on Grail.

This jacket will mainly be a Fall/Spring Jacket, maybe winter with a thin hoodie. My style is mainly street style like attached. I want it to fit well but with a modern silhouette that flares out juuuust a little bit. and for me to be able to wear sneakers with. Also dont want it to look too out of place when I wear it with slacks and a button up when I go to Church (sometimes)

I am thinking of doing the following, and need some advice from the experts here;

1. Black CXL FQHH
-Is it true that it Teacores better than Blackened Brown Vicenza HH, I saw on some threads that it is heavier? I dont want to dismiss the Vicenza so quickly as I dont know a lot about it.

2. Cotton Sateen lining, red/wine.
-Mainly just want it to feel niice and to accommodate the layering better. The Schott 618's lining felt nice and warm enough, will it be thicker or thinner than that? I found that with that jacket, a thing long sleeve shirt, and the faux fur collar that I was warm enough to stand around down to mid 30 degrees farenheit.

3. Epaulets, Shoulder gussets, "V" yoke (unsure of what it is called)
-Since this wont be a super tailored/tight fit jacket (layering purposes) I thought of adding these to accentuate the chest/shoulders area. Am I accurate in this or would it be too much or too flashy? Maybe a full action back?

4. No side straps, but belt loops (I will explain why)
-Just so the bottom is not "empty" considering I have the epaulets and stuff at the top of the jacket. I will also have the kidney protector. I found this post by @ton312 and I think its perfect.

I will be adding internal pockets and using standard brass hardware (maybe steel is better?). Also adding a dark brown mouton but unsure if the jacket itself needs more buttoning point to accommodate.

Thank you all in advanced for your feedback.

Edit: This jacket will be worn open around 90% of the time btw

 

[Monitor]

Why not just get a used Schott? Or stick to the one you got, 'cause that's pretty much what you're describing here.

FQHH is very heavy & frankly, not much fun to wear, especially on a warm day and combined with how restrictive these jackets are, well, I don't think you'll enjoy it very much if it's a street style jacket you're after.

 

[blobsterroll]

Why not just get a used Schott? Or stick to the one you got, 'cause that's pretty much what you're describing here.

FQHH is very heavy & frankly, not much fun to wear, especially on a warm day and combined with how restrictive these jackets are, well, I don't think you'll enjoy it very much if it's a street style jacket you're after.

I did have a Schott, its been sold since. Spent some money getting tailored but didnt work out. I am thinking to get it custom made just to ensure the fit is right. It does not help that I have a weird, rounded neanderthal back.

I liked the Schott and the DH Deviant. Just dont fit me very good tbh.

 

[MrProper]

On my CXL, Teacore was only visible on the sleeves. Cxl as the only jacket may not be the best choice.

My Vicenza wears much more comfortably and even though CXL is really cool, for everyday use Vicenza or similar is better.
Teacore on blackened brown Vicenza

 

[blobsterroll]

View attachment 440794

This is a good looking jacket dude! Did you opt for the shoulder gussets? Now I am second guessing my choice for the epaulets and belt loops

So both teacores the same, then? Vicenza seems to look a bit more bovine in my amateur eyes, is it because of the grain?

 

[MrProper]

This is a good looking jacket dude! Did you opt for the shoulder gussets? Now I am second guessing my choice for the epaulets and belt loops

So both teacores the same, then? Vicenza seems to look a bit more bovine in my amateur eyes, is it because of the grain?

Thanks.
No, no shoulder gussets. I have two jackets with these and they are ok, but I like it a bit better without. Epaulettes I do not like and belt loops either. Taste is different

 

[blobsterroll]

Thanks.
No, no shoulder gussets. I have two jackets with these and they are ok, but I like it a bit better without. Epaulettes I do not like and belt loops either. Taste is different

Agreed. Again I am considering the epaulets to accentuate the shoulders, and the belt loops for balance. Maybe wear the belt sometimes too, depends on mood.

So is that the back view jacket of the Vicenza HH you posted above? I googled Blackened Brown Vicenze Horsehide Patina and got nothing.... even for Teacore.

Is it true its comparable to shinki? The DH I have is from Nitta which is Shinki-like, and tbh I like it. So if the Vicenza is anything like that, I am in.

 

[Spiney]

I’d definitely consider Goat instead of CXL.

 

[blobsterroll]

I’d definitely consider Goat instead of CXL.

Ive been ruined, if its not Horse, I dont want it lol

 

[MrProper]

Yes, the rear view is the Ridley in blackened brown Vicenza. I had a brown shinki that was beautiful leather without question, but I wouldn't choose it over Vicenza. Nor the other way around. I like them both. I think the shinki hype is a bit over the top.

 

[blobsterroll]

Yes, the rear view is the Ridley in blackened brown Vicenza. I had a brown shinki that was beautiful leather without question, but I wouldn't choose it over Vicenza. Nor the other way around. I like them both. I think the shinki hype is a bit over the top.

Kind of like how people argue about the Katana being the best sword ever made

 

[El Marro]

I’m going to step in here and throw out a totally different idea. Since you are contemplating a cross zip jacket that you want to wear all the time the jacket must be comfortable to wear.
In my opinion Vanson makes some of the best fitting and most comfortable cross zips in the business. Thurston Brothers is a Vanson distributor and Carrie knows their catalog better than anyone. Off the top of my head it seems to me like the Vanson C2 has most of the features you are looking for right out of the box.
Leather selection is one area where Aero has Vanson beat, no doubt about it. I’m not sure if you can even get horsehide from Vanson at this point. Again, I would ask Carrie about leather options since they have some custom hides that they use on their jackets from both Vanson and Aero.
I understand where you are coming from with your desire to have your jacket made from horsehide. At one time I felt this way myself and for a while I only bought horsehide jackets, I own at least fourteen of them now. At a certain point though I realized that horsehide does not possess any magical powers and that a cowhide or goat jacket that fits well is every bit as good as one made from horse.
I apologize for the length of this screed, once I got started I couldn’t stop. I am not trying to derail your jacket search but I thought these were points worth making.

 

[blobsterroll]

I’m going to step in here and throw out a totally different idea. Since you are contemplating a cross zip jacket that you want to wear all the time the jacket must be comfortable to wear.
In my opinion Vanson makes some of the best fitting and most comfortable cross zips in the business. Thurston Brothers is a Vanson distributor and Carrie knows their catalog better than anyone. Off the top of my head it seems to me like the Vanson C2 has most of the features you are looking for right out of the box.
Leather selection is one area where Aero has Vanson beat, no doubt about it. I’m not sure if you can even get horsehide from Vanson at this point. Again, I would ask Carrie about leather options since they have some custom hides that they use on their jackets from both Vanson and Aero.
I understand where you are coming from with your desire to have your jacket made from horsehide. At one time I felt this way myself and for a while I only bought horsehide jackets, I own at least fourteen of them now. At a certain point though I realized that horsehide does not possess any magical powers and that a cowhide or goat jacket that fits well is every bit as good as one made from horse.
I apologize for the length of this screed, once I got started I couldn’t stop. I am not trying to derail your jacket search but I thought these were points worth making.

Hey man, dw I appreciate all feedback. I have considered this, but I am diehard with the Horsehide. DOnt know why, just how I feel.

Also fourteen!?! I feel bad for having 1 and 1 on the way! (the Aero I am trying to build)

 

[handymike]

If you are only 14, I suggest you go for the CXL.
It will be glorious once you've gotten through college, and everyone will drool over it in your 20s. Just don’t ever take it off in a bar.
Be aware that you are still growing, and account for the change in your sizing- otherwise it will be in the classifieds in 2-3 years.

I would actually recommend you find a nice vintage or used one until you stop growing (21-23). Buy the lifetime jacket then.

 

[blobsterroll]

If you are only 14, I suggest you go for the CXL.
It will be glorious once you've gotten through college, and everyone will drool over it in your 20s. Just don’t ever take it off in a bar.
Be aware that you are still growing, and account for the change in your sizing- otherwise it will be in the classifieds in 2-3 years.

I would actually recommend you find a nice vintage or used one until you stop growing (21-23).

I wish I had the money when I was 14. Our man El Marro has 14 Horsehide jackets :O

Edit: I am turning 32 in a month or so

 

[handymike]

Never mind, my mis-understanding

 

[Aloysius]

Just speaking to the leather choice:

What do you mean by “tea core”? (I hate that term, lol).

Do you want the jacket to go brown at wear spots? Do you want the whole thing to turn completely brown eventually? Do you want it to look 80 years old in a month? Different leathers will give you different characteristics.

CXL (in addition to being heavy and unwieldy especially on a super trim jacket like the Ridley) is going to go completely brown.

”Blackened Brown” Vicenza has a pretty strong black topcoat. I wouldn’t expect it to wear down much (MrProper’s jacket is the only one I’ve seen that faded at the edges) except with rare batches.

I think your best bet would be the (unfortunately named) Jerky horsehide or the newer Kelpie horsehide.

 

[blobsterroll]

Just speaking to the leather choice:

What do you mean by “tea core”? (I hate that term, lol).

Do you want the jacket to go brown at wear spots? Do you want the whole thing to turn completely brown eventually? Do you want it to look 80 years old in a month? Different leathers will give you different characteristics.

CXL (in addition to being heavy and unwieldy especially on a super trim jacket like the Ridley) is going to go completely brown.

”Blackened Brown” Vicenza has a pretty strong black topcoat. I wouldn’t expect it to wear down much (MrProper’s jacket is the only one I’ve seen that faded at the edges) except with rare batches.

I think your best bet would be the (unfortunately named) Jerky horsehide or the newer Kelpie horsehide.

I want it to be like attached, but not in a month. 3-5 years, maybe...

And yeah I cannot find any blackened brown vicenza with the brown tones showing in google

 

[Aloysius]

I want it to be like attached, but not in a month. 3-5 years, maybe...

And yeah I cannot find any blackened brown vicenza with the brown tones showing in google

Schott PER70

 

[ton312]

I want it to be like attached, but not in a month. 3-5 years, maybe...

And yeah I cannot find any blackened brown vicenza with the brown tones showing in google

I think black CXL is a good choice. Perhaps the tumbled variant for superior comfort while maintaining serious heft. Black CXL will fade to brown slowly. If I were to order another CXL jacket, despite the myriad of attractive colors offered, I would absolutely go with black.