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Aero Premier 1930s Highwayman

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,140
Location
Europe
Thanks! I’m experiencing the cold conductivity of CXL that you’ve mentioned before with my FQHH Hooch Hauler and thought your approach with the moleskin sounded like a nice way to counter balance that.
That was exactly my plan. However, I have to say that it only partially turned out as planned. The moleskin is a little warmer than cotton drill, but nowhere near enough to make a warm jacket. I think it needs different leather (e.g. Vicenza or sheep, goat, all of which I find warmer) and a wider cut.
But I still like the moleskin because it's very comfortable to wear. I find moleskin and cotton satin the most comfortable, then cotton drill, then wool tartan.
 

RDS

A-List Customer
Messages
334
Although I’ve had jackets, leather or otherwise, which had moleskin linings none of them had this for the sleeves. All were stock and not custom orders.
I think there’s a very good, practical reason why manufacturers don’t use moleskin in sleeves and that is because, as Mr P. suggests, it would be far too ‘grabby’. This would make taking the jacket off, and especially putting it on, a real chore. I can see that that the cuffs of whatever you’re wearing underneath would have to be held when putting your arm into the jacket. Otherwise they’d probably end up somewhere around your elbow.
I believe any possible thermal benefits of the moleskin will be very minor and not really noticeable, but even so these would be far outweighed by the issue of wearability.
 

JoFlym

New in Town
Messages
18
That was exactly my plan. However, I have to say that it only partially turned out as planned. The moleskin is a little warmer than cotton drill, but nowhere near enough to make a warm jacket. I think it needs different leather (e.g. Vicenza or sheep, goat, all of which I find warmer) and a wider cut.
But I still like the moleskin because it's very comfortable to wear. I find moleskin and cotton satin the most comfortable, then cotton drill, then wool tartan.
What makes VIcenza, sheep and goat warmer leathers, in your experience? Would you consider Badalassi (or other cowhides other than CXL), deerskin, or other horsehides (not CXL) to be warm?
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,140
Location
Europe
What makes VIcenza, sheep and goat warmer leathers, in your experience? Would you consider Badalassi (or other cowhides other than CXL), deerskin, or other horsehides (not CXL) to be warm?
Perhaps because the leathers mentioned are "drier"? I don't know exactly, but I would most likely compare it to wearing a thin fabric jacket minimally damp (CXL) vs. the same jacket dry (goat, sheep, ...). Perhaps exaggerated.
The CXL contains a lot of grease and wax and is therefore "wetter" than leathers, which have less of it.
Whatever it is, I can tell the difference. Badalassi also seems a little cooler to me.
All this doesn't really speak in favour of leather jackets, because my comfort zone really only lies within a narrow temperature range, ideally around 12 - 20 Celsius. Too cool underneath quickly, too warm on top. And yet I still like them LOL
Always assuming the lining is not explicitly there to keep you warm.
I used to have a leather jacket lined with felt/thin woollen blanket, which was reasonably warm (motorbike), now I have a Rugged West with padded lining, which is probably my warmest leather jacket (excluding shearling).
Incidentally, I have a pair of leather trousers made from chamois-tanned deerskin that don't feel cool at all.
 

JoFlym

New in Town
Messages
18
Perhaps because the leathers mentioned are "drier"? I don't know exactly, but I would most likely compare it to wearing a thin fabric jacket minimally damp (CXL) vs. the same jacket dry (goat, sheep, ...). Perhaps exaggerated.
The CXL contains a lot of grease and wax and is therefore "wetter" than leathers, which have less of it.
Whatever it is, I can tell the difference. Badalassi also seems a little cooler to me.
All this doesn't really speak in favour of leather jackets, because my comfort zone really only lies within a narrow temperature range, ideally around 12 - 20 Celsius. Too cool underneath quickly, too warm on top. And yet I still like them LOL
Always assuming the lining is not explicitly there to keep you warm.
I used to have a leather jacket lined with felt/thin woollen blanket, which was reasonably warm (motorbike), now I have a Rugged West with padded lining, which is probably my warmest leather jacket (excluding shearling).
Incidentally, I have a pair of leather trousers made from chamois-tanned deerskin that don't feel cool at all.
I live in a place where the temperature can swing a lot in a day, and I also tend to run cold and so I’m trying to find the sweet spot where I can wear the jacket across various temps but still stay warm enough when it gets cold. Thanks for your thoughts on this!
 

JackKel

New in Town
Messages
22
Location
Australia
Premier Highwayman in cordovan Chromexcel Steerhide (CXSH) lined with brown moleskin. Zippers are Universal in nickel. Weight of the jacket 2,75 kg/6.06 lbs.

It is my first CXSH jacket and I am more than satisfied. Until now I only knew Chromexcel Frontquarter Horsehide (CXFQHH). I actually like CXSH better because it is thick, but still rather soft. It's a shame that CXSH doesn't have the same color selection as CXFQHH.

The Cordovan color is definitely an eye-catcher. If you want to be more low-key on the go, you might not want to pick this color. Personally I think cordovan is cool.

As @Monitor described, "It is almost red on a sunny day and deep purple when it is cloudy."

The moleskin lining is perfect. Chromexcel leather is a "cold" leather, in my opinion, and transmits the outside temperature to the body uninsulated. The moleskin does a great job of compensating for that. And the shade of brown from the moleskin looks much better than I had hoped. I'm glad I followed Chloe's recommendation.

I'm excited to see how the jacket will develop. I wore it for 12 hours straight the first day and it was extremely comfortable.

View attachment 460781 View attachment 460780 View attachment 460779 View attachment 460778 View attachment 460777
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Epic fit!
 

JackKel

New in Town
Messages
22
Location
Australia
Premier Highwayman in cordovan Chromexcel Steerhide (CXSH) lined with brown moleskin. Zippers are Universal in nickel. Weight of the jacket 2,75 kg/6.06 lbs.

It is my first CXSH jacket and I am more than satisfied. Until now I only knew Chromexcel Frontquarter Horsehide (CXFQHH). I actually like CXSH better because it is thick, but still rather soft. It's a shame that CXSH doesn't have the same color selection as CXFQHH.

The Cordovan color is definitely an eye-catcher. If you want to be more low-key on the go, you might not want to pick this color. Personally I think cordovan is cool.

As @Monitor described, "It is almost red on a sunny day and deep purple when it is cloudy."

The moleskin lining is perfect. Chromexcel leather is a "cold" leather, in my opinion, and transmits the outside temperature to the body uninsulated. The moleskin does a great job of compensating for that. And the shade of brown from the moleskin looks much better than I had hoped. I'm glad I followed Chloe's recommendation.

I'm excited to see how the jacket will develop. I wore it for 12 hours straight the first day and it was extremely comfortable.

View attachment 460781 View attachment 460780 View attachment 460779 View attachment 460778 View attachment 460777
View attachment 460782 View attachment 460783 View attachment 460784
View attachment 460786
I’m looking for a jacket/ fit like this!

What are your measurements. What size is this? Love it
 

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