Agnoulita Hats

Discussion in 'Hats' started by Perry Underwood, Feb 18, 2018.

  1. Rmccamey

    Rmccamey One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,367
    Location:
    Central Texas
    Keep us informed, Brent. I'll be interested to see how these turn out...and any new sources of beaver felt.

     
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  2. deadlyhandsome

    deadlyhandsome I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,288
    Location:
    Central California
    Reggie, his “custom” hats from last year weren’t anywhere near the quality of the custom hatters whose creations show up here all the time. However, for the price they were decent and cheap fun.

    The proprietor, Mr. P, has upped his game with new machinery, a claimed higher build quality, and supposedly better felts too. I’ve yet to see one of his new hats, but they are a 60% premium over his standard hats so I’m hoping they are worth the cost.

    What he really has to offer is the huge variety of colors not available from most domestic hatters. He also has impressive completion times with some of his customs taking just over one month from order to delivery.

    At $229 and up he’s more than Gannon or Phoenix, and several others; albeit, Agnoulita is using hare and the domestic hatters are using rabbit. Since the new pricing means he’s playing with some serious competition he had better have upped his quality control game.

    I believe that his improved build quality also applies to his rabbit fur felt hats that are still priced below his domestic competition. I’ve been favorably impressed with his rabbit fur felt hats in the standard and antelope (my favorite) finishes. I don’t like his velour and the long hair was better but not great. The flecked fur is interesting, but I only have one so it’s hard to say.

    I’ll post a detailed, and critical, review once I receive his new hare offering. I should add that Mr. P speaks fluent English and fluent hat: he knows US hat terms, blocks, etc. He’s a very easy guy to work with, but you must be specific about every detail that’s important to you: e.g., if you want it finely pounced you need to tell him.




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  3. Dlaniger

    Dlaniger Call Me a Cab

    Messages:
    2,407
    Location:
    Philadelphia PA
    Thanks, Brent. looking forward to your review. I probably will grab one in the, not too distant future just to check them out.
     
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  4. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

    Messages:
    14,157
    Location:
    Maryland
    Hare Fur is primarily used for Long Hair finishes because it produces the highest gloss. It's also very durable but more difficult to felt. The quality of the fur is most important which lacks today.

    "Quality Differences in Hare Hair

    The most precious hair stems from the back. Depending on its dimension it is classified into Blumenrück / Flowers Back(very rare) , Kronenrück / Crowns Back(rare), Schwarzrück / Black Back or Reinrück / Purely Back . If we leave white and blue sides or even the underside at the back, i. e. if we process the whole fur, significant differences in quality will be the result. The qualities also depend on the countries of origin. Saxony e.g. can boast good hare, while the Nordic and Russian white hare cannot be used. This is surprising, because the effects of temperature, i.e. the coldness of each winter play an important role in the natural selection of the animals and the quality of the hides. The season is so important that a particularly poor quality is called “summer back” (the fur of the back of a hare killed in the summer). Only the final product allows the best assessment; especially the gloss is an excellent feature for the quality of the raw material. Thus the term "hare hair" alone doesn’t mean anything; hair from the tail of the hare e.g. is the most inferior quality you can think of, and yet the untrimmed hare stomach is only about one-third of the value of a normal Schwarzrück / Black Back. So only a velour hat which has a certain quality level can be called well wearable, notwithstanding that an inferior brushed velour must be more expensive than a clean or smooth hair hat."

    From "Hair Velour / Real (Echter) Velour / Prime (Prima) Velour Fabrikation von Damen- und Herren- Filzhüten, Der Deustchen Hutmacher Zeitung (1933)"

    (I would recommend reading this article. You will not find this information anywhere else.)

    https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/216-hair-velour-real-echter-velour-prime-prima-velour-fabrikation-von-damen-und-herren-filzhüten-der-deustchen-hutmacher-zeitung-1933/
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2019
  5. pairrothead01

    pairrothead01 New in Town

    Messages:
    39
    Location:
    Everett, Washington
    Good read
    Thank you, I am always up for learning things

    Sent from my nami using Tapatalk
     
  6. PanosChris

    PanosChris One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    108
    During my short trip back home last week I paid a visit at Agnoulita hats. The deal was to local pick up the milan straw I have ordered for my summer expeditions. I also brought with me a couple of older hats I own for restoration/modifications. Mr P warmly welcomed me and gave me a tour over his studio. I was also lucky enough to see his new 100% hare felts in different weights and finishes upon arrival, along with others from Tonak, Fepsa and some vintage beaver (!) ones. Below I am sharing some photos from my visit for you to see (some pics from his studio have allready been posted here before so please forgive me for any dublications)
    Here we go. Entrance and studio
    IMG-d462fc77c11a2a79e5de3c21512ffcab-V.jpg
    IMG-f464c4d1acd988a6fb100cd65498dc33-V.jpg IMG-ee878b3b5c5199b796f15cec1314990c-V.jpg
    Blocks, flanges and tools
    IMG-41786049ebd19a1281fb680bd62e0bf5-V.jpg IMG-8352df6bba1314bd7b4820893ed23a55-V.jpg
    IMG-5e03fa1da10fbe87b719d19cdef30bc1-V.jpg
    Felt color samples, sweatbands and harris tweed (!) liners
    IMG-8eae86f54f0d9a5d7932de03ea94e43e-V.jpg IMG-cd923b2037c230116c269b55318c1a77-V.jpg IMG-6dc91acb92c41a25e6b1df44a5cf1038-V.jpg IMG-83dbbee166d9dcecd19ee0d1661dda7d-V.jpg
    To be continued ..
     
  7. PanosChris

    PanosChris One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    108
    Part 2.
    100% hare felts in light and western weight
    IMG-9b584515dc4b3a07077fe4eacaf79fa1-V.jpg IMG-fee330094688beab39800f2f7986ef22-V.jpg IMG-49dc8e57ae0023c2fedacc1f22d6cba2-V.jpg IMG-4980e9ce001852d5882d746f37a6c02f-V.jpg
    Beaver felts from Fepsa, Winchester and some vintage European ones
    IMG-cd96bcd8bd3bd49a2792e2ce942d2720-V.jpg
    Deciding on vintage ribbons for my borsa and on the hat block for my next order
    IMG-8a8ed3df16e2fb2d7640fe5b0343fed1-V.jpg
    From left to right : #510, #52, #51
    IMG-359e8951558ba66baf455e6b01831b70-V.jpg
    Sweatband skiving IMG-fe2bcfd32ccf7bf3889f7d2809ddad2d-V.jpg
    Antique sewing machines. From left to right, German (I forgot the model name) and Greek clone IMG-f59e2c8458c710d05ba0e35dc72fbca4-V.jpg To be continued...
     
  8. PanosChris

    PanosChris One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    108
    Part 3 and last.
    Removing my hat from block and shaping
    IMG-f8f8c0019c98b7eb00d153cf220fe6df-V.jpg IMG-e1db6b790a2282d2094f7af269fe5fe6-V.jpg IMG-e9e1fde56f012686be7511dad5b45bbc-V.jpg
    A happy hat owner posing with hat maker and admiring the sweatband sewing machine IMG-40bbb7cf9636c798425714394a088312-V.jpg
    IMG-8cc5410a69ba1b96c932bc4623e98dbe-V.jpg
    And sporting it on the island
    IMG-cf684459e26470399738d3a697fa794f-V.jpg IMG-ab908a7c0755a0d2bebf6116ff3d65b2-V.jpg
    And I think I will stop there... I am grateful to Mr P for opening his studio to me and allowing to share some pics here. I finally got to meet him in person and can't really say enough how friendly, knowledgeable and easy to deal with is. I'll definitely try to visit him again in my next trip. I hope also you got a small taste of this visit.
    All the best,
    Panos
     
  9. deadlyhandsome

    deadlyhandsome I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,288
    Location:
    Central California

    A great write up, Panos. Thanks for taking the time to do this. Mr. P frustrates me sometimes by not responding to my emails and other times taking a couple weeks to respond, but I know he’s busy and doing his best.

    The photos of the shop are illuminating. He sent me a photo of his ASM sewing machine when he first received it and I was shocked that he (his emplyee(s)) had been sewing all their sweats by hand. I’m really encouraged by his expansion of felt sourcing and US hatters should also be able to use him as a middleman to access hard to get felts.

    Mr. P told me that you were present when my hat body was unboxed. He also said he hoped to ship my finished hat by the end of this week! Your photo of the hat body where it’s been pinched gives me hope that the felt will be what I’m looking for.

    Thanks again for the photo essay, Panos! Your Milan looks great by the way.


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  10. PanosChris

    PanosChris One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    108
    Hi Brent,

    I am glad you liked my Milan and the photos from Agnoulita shop !

    I agree with you and I think Mr P has great potential of offering, both directly and as a middleman, a broad variety of felt bodies from different sources.

    Indeed I was very lucky to be present in the unboxing. My overall impression from these felts was very positive. I also attach here the non-pinched pic of the light weight #861 for you to compare the thickness of it with the western weight brown posted above. I hope the colour, hand and overall feel of your finished hat will fulfil your expectations. Looking forward to your review when you receive it.
    Panos IMG-f351634a8fe03cbc823c93e98c0d12ad-V.jpg
     
  11. deadlyhandsome

    deadlyhandsome I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,288
    Location:
    Central California

    Someday I hope to visit him myself....

    I asked for an unfinished western weight 100% hare hat body be added to the box with my finished hat. I hope they’re both everything that Mr. P says they are.


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  12. belfastboy

    belfastboy My Mail is Forwarded Here

    Messages:
    3,091
    Location:
    vancouver, canada
    We are planning a trip to Crete in April next year. If he has FEPSA beaver I may have to make a side trip to Athens and pick one out. ......and I thought I was done!!!!
     
  13. deadlyhandsome

    deadlyhandsome I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,288
    Location:
    Central California

    I’d call in advance. I got the feeling from Panos that he didn’t have a lot of beaver in stock.
     
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  14. PanosChris

    PanosChris One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    108
    That's correct Brent. Currently he has black and moss green from FEPSA 100% beaver. Maybe some more to come in the future but a call in advance it's the safest indeed.
     
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  15. deadlyhandsome

    deadlyhandsome I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,288
    Location:
    Central California
    This is the hat body that keeps hope alive!

    [​IMG]

    The felt molded around where the fingers grabbed it makes me drool. Thanks again Panos!


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  16. Just Daniel

    Just Daniel Practically Family

    Messages:
    550
    WOW! This thread is so much fun!

    Great work from everyone!
     
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  17. Scooterz

    Scooterz A-List Customer

    Messages:
    408
    Great postings! Really like the photos. What are the dimensions of your milan? It does look very nice.

     
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  18. PanosChris

    PanosChris One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    108
    Many thanks! Some details regarding my Milan :
    Super extra fine straw in natural (finer and less "yellow/gold" than his old straw one)
    Size 57
    Crown: #52 block, 14.6cm (open)
    Brim : 6.5cm fedora flange
    Ribbon, 4cm taupe color with bow finish
    White leather sweatband, unlined

    Best,
    Panos
     
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  19. deadlyhandsome

    deadlyhandsome I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    7,288
    Location:
    Central California
    A rather cryptic photo with very little explanation. I was told it took two sets of hands to get the hat on the block. I hope for it to ship next week:

    [​IMG]

    And yes, this is an accurate representation of the photo. It doesn’t show much, but I’ll take what I can get. Mr. P remains very busy and is slow to answer emails, so I’ll take what I can get. If you order from Agnoulita you have to accept that you’re not going to get the level of service and attention that domestic custom hatters provide.


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  20. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

    Messages:
    14,157
    Location:
    Maryland
    Did he confirm the Hare felt source? Is it Khust Felt Wears Ukraine (seems most likely)? If so made on Bahner machines.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2019
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