Badalassi Carlo Nappa - Second jacket from Tony Leathers

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by matchankh, Oct 13, 2021 at 6:58 AM.

  1. matchankh

    matchankh New in Town

    Messages:
    41
    So this is the second jacket I made from Tony Leather in Shanghai. I am happy with the fit and construction with the first jacket with Tony so I placed another order soon after I recieved the first jacket.

    I based this jacket on the Mister Freedom Campus Jacket in raw hide but darker. Kind of like after the raw hide has been aged and darken.

    Sourcing the leather: Since the leather choice from Tony is quite limited. I asked if I could send over the leather of my choice and have him make it. The leather I went for is the Badalassi Carlo nappa in cognac. The sourcing for the leather is really easy here in China. I just went on Taobao and found a leather supplier. The leather arrived to Tony's workshop in a day or two after I made the purchase.
    tb_image_share_1634103561978.jpg 8e9d7d095dd00e26c20a3251ce1f910d.jpg

    Leather: From what I understand the leather used by Aero is the Badalassi Nappa Lux. The Lux means a high shine finish. Mine is the just the Nappa which means it has kind of a matte finish. However I'm not sure if this one I have is the exact same as the one Aero uses because I think I read somewhere that Aero skives their Badalassi leather down. I'm not 100% sure but I think Nappa is a 3-3.5oz leather and should be just right for jackets. The heavier version is called Minerva and are more used for boots.Maybe Aero skived the Nappa down even more or they ordered something thicker like the minerva. I have a tobacco Badalassi Hooch Hauler in production with Aero and should arrive sometime next month. So I can compare the 2 Badalassi leathers more.

    The surface of my cognac Badalassi is quite grainy. Not as stiff and shiny comparing to Tony's in house steerhide. That makes break in quite a bit easier. I have been wearing it around the house for 2 days and the edge are already starting to darken . The leather is a lot softer already and creases on the sleeve are setting rather quickly as well. This leather should patina quite drastically which is interesting to see.

    However this leather is quite prone to water. I already got some water marks on the cuffs from water splashing on them while washing my hands. This might be due to the leather lacking the Lux/Oil shine finish as a protective layer. I might wet the whole jacket with damp cloth to darken the jacket and even out the water marks. Also since the colour of the leather is pretty loud and orange-ish. I am really tempted to try something to darken it. Maybe first attempt should be just wet it evenly and see how it goes. Then maybe a light layer of neatsfoot oil with sunlight after if I still want to darken more. Maybe someone with more experience can chip in on this matter?
    IMG_20211013_125322.jpg IMG_20211013_125338.jpg IMG_20211013_125541.jpg

    IMG_20211013_125354.jpg

    Fit: I'm happy with the first jacket I got from Tony besides the length being a little to long. Also the jacket is a T-shirt fit(2" + my chest measurement) and I can't layer under. I want to be able to layer with this one. So for this jacket we increased the p2p by 0.75", shoulder by 0.5",bicep by 0.2" and Hem by 1". The length reduced by 1.5".

    I'm quite happy with the result. The fit is nice and comfortable right out of the box. It works with just wearing a T shirt and also works with wearing a denim jacket under. The new length is quite short but still covers my belt easily. All in all I'm happy with how it turns out.

    IMG_20211013_133043.jpg IMG_20211013_131306.jpg IMG_20211013_133330.jpg IMG_20211013_130647.jpg

    Next project: For the third project I ordered some shinki Navy horsehide. It should be the same kind that Field leather uses. For the style I would go for a some simple half belt. Still in discussion with Tony about the details. Really excited for how that one turns out!

    Sorry for the not so good pics though. Also the colour is quite hard to capture. It seems more brownish in natural sunlight and more orange indoor.
     
    Robbie79, Jin431, Angel and 25 others like this.
  2. MrProper

    MrProper One Too Many

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    Location:
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    Really nice. That's exactly how I would imagine it if it were my jacket. Congratulations.
     
  3. willyto

    willyto One Too Many

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    1,279
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    Barcelona
    That is a good looking jacket! Fits you great and the leather looks fantastic.
     
  4. Imuricecreamman

    Imuricecreamman One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,117
    Wow! YOu got an amazing batch of leather. I personally wouldn't touch the leather and rather let it age naturally. The fit looks perfect to me and the leather looks a little more substantial than the Badass that Aero uses.
     
  5. matchankh

    matchankh New in Town

    Messages:
    41
    Thanks very much!

    Yes I figure I should leave it for now. If the water marks become unbearable then maybe I'll just wipe the jacket down with a damp cloth to even things out.
     
    Imuricecreamman likes this.
  6. matchankh

    matchankh New in Town

    Messages:
    41
    Thanks very much! Really appreciate the kind words.
     
  7. Imuricecreamman

    Imuricecreamman One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,117
    Yeah! I'd do the same if I feel they were too pronounced. Wow. You got the length spot on. The length is so crucial to get right on these jackets.
     
  8. navetsea

    navetsea I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
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    Location:
    East Java
    leather and fit looks glorious, congrats!
     
  9. Will Zach

    Will Zach One Too Many

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    This is a major win. Looks perfect.
     
  10. TREEMAN

    TREEMAN One Too Many

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    You nailed it !! Fantastic !!
     
  11. matchankh

    matchankh New in Town

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    41
    I was quite worried as the measurement does look quite short. I'm 5'8 and the back length is 22.75 with about 1" front drop. Turns out pretty good.
     
    Imuricecreamman likes this.
  12. ton312

    ton312

    Messages:
    12,885
    Location:
    Chicago
    WOW!!!! Best looking shawl collar jacket I have ever seen. Blows away all the top tier makers by a country mile. That is freaking brilliant! What a fit!
     
    matchankh likes this.
  13. Imuricecreamman

    Imuricecreamman One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,117
    After I started tucking my shirts, I've been getting a lot more use of my vintage jackets as they are a lot shorter in length. Looks much better proportioned to my eyes.
     
  14. Cheech

    Cheech One of the Regulars

    Messages:
    127
    Location:
    NC, US
    That jacket is stunning. Easily surpasses the original (Mister Freedom), dare I say it!

    I was just planning on having a custom reproduction of the Mister Freedom Baloo made in a natural leather. Anyone order from Tony Leather without going to Shanghai first?
     
  15. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    9,024
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    SoCal
    It looks great!
    The leather will darken over time, and it will be even better!
    Here is an example- john Lofgren boots in Cognac Badalassi:
    1A62EB42-7AAD-4065-B9DD-5822ED985D79.png
    Fantastic choice in leather.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2021 at 2:36 PM
    tamz0r, Vezio, Mrfrown and 4 others like this.
  16. Will Zach

    Will Zach One Too Many

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    I can already see requests for proxy at Tony's to China-based members, lol.

    5* needs to up their game.
     
    matchankh likes this.
  17. Boyo

    Boyo One Too Many

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    1,962
    Location:
    Long Island NY
    Looks Great! Fit is perfect, I really like that you can get a denim jacket under it comfortably.
     
  18. mendelboaz

    mendelboaz One Too Many

    Messages:
    1,101
    Location:
    The Netherlands
    Holy cow, that is a stellar jacket. The fit works so well on you, and the leather is an absolute dream. Enjoy!
     
  19. Worf

    Worf I'll Lock Up

    Messages:
    4,872
    Location:
    Troy, New York, USA
    That is one fine jacket. You wear it well. Congrats!

    Worf
     
  20. matchankh

    matchankh New in Town

    Messages:
    41
    Thanks for the kind words. It would not be possible without the the amazing knowledge this forum provides!
     

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