Beautiful '30s Suit FABRICS

[Mr. Rover]

I don't think there are any "rules" about this sort of thing...guidelines and preferences are more accurate descriptions. Afterall, the Duke of Windsor hated braces and had all of his pants made with belt loops (correct me if I'm over-generalizing). I have a 60s 3-piece suit and it didn't even have suspender buttons originally...only belt loops. I had to have suspender buttons added because I didn't like wearing a belt under my waistcoat.

 

[Mr. Rover]

I don't know if there's a rule about it, but generally the lines seem a lot neater when the trousers just have side adjusters and/or braces. Perhaps just me, but I can notice belt loop bulges under the waistcoat. Also, in my experience it encourages a lot of men to wear belts when wearing the waistcoat, which never looks good. :eusa_doh:

Can you really see belt loop bulges under a waistcoat? Is this on paper thin fabric? In my limited experience, the outward appearance of the waistcoat is unaffected by belt loops.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I suspect it's a fantasy, Ray.

Anyway, here's another fabric from the fabulous forties. Black/white houndstooth tweed with blue overcheck. Such a great fabric. Classic, understated, but just that little bit showy.

bk

<<< Hey, Hey, i'm locking up!!!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I once had a sportcoat in that fabric/color! The touch of royal blue makes all the difference. "God is in the details."


.

 

[Tomasso]

"God is in the details."
.

And, often the Devil.

 

[resortes805]

hmmmm. . . .

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Odd . . . you didn't just sell the trousers did you?

bk

 

[resortes805]

No, but if matching trousers exist, I would love to see them.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

How does the fabric of your jacket feel? These trousers are incredibly soft . . . almost cashmere soft. Very light-weight fabric, too.

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

here's one from the 40s. A light blue tweed with double white pinstripes. A bit like a swimming pool.

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Another from the 1940s sportscoat arena. A Donegal-type brown and black tweed with a windowpane pattern of red vertical flecked stripes, and orange horizontal stripes. In addition to the standard flecks. The windowpane can almost be seen here:

bk

 

[herringbonekid]

very nice fleckage.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

almost enough orange to make an oompa-loompa happy.

bk

 

[thunderw21]

bumpity

 

[thunderw21]

Thought I should add this.

This is a link to a thread about a Sears 1943-1944 suit catalog with original fabric swatches.


http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=29186


Enjoy.

 

[bookster1uk]

I once asked Pete from Bookster why they never advertised Irish linen vintage suits and he said they did not last like wool.

This proves they do.

WOW!
I have never seen a linen suit like that in any condition,maybe the UK ain't the best place historically, I wouldn't pass by a piece like that !
This is one hell of a thread, mouth watering....
I fully sympathise with both Marc as a fellow seller, and buyers on limited budgets,a large number in such a position are our regulars, but more and more are feeling the pinch, even the well heeled.Its a difficult balancing act, as a seller I have to pay ever more for 'cream' , the quality, even at our gradually higher selling prices, is still an enormous bargain compared to pricey inferior modern garments, incomparable really, and gems are harder to find. Most of the stuff I see from you chaps is museum quality , but far better in your wardrobes I say.But sharing it with the likes of me is truly inspirational

 

[YETI]

was that the one? ...

Two Oviatt's sportcoats from around 1950:


======---==

I recall seeing that exact Oviatt's(slate blue one) some years ago for sale on the vintage clothing site Vintagetrends. Correct me if I'm mistaken. I believe it was only $65. a steal!!

 

[dhermann1]

This shot also illustrates what I always use as a rule of thumb between "vintage" suits and more modern. That is, the coat lining that crosses up the middle of the back and overlaps, revealing those taped seams. Later suits have lining right down the back. Can anyone tell me more about this? Is there a correct technical term for this? Am I right in considering 1956 as the cut off date for this style?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

No way you can be that specific. To a single year? I think not.

As a matter of casual interest, where on earth did that date come from (i've seen you post it before)?

bk

 

[Tomasso]

the coat lining that crosses up the middle of the back and overlaps, revealing those taped seams. Is there a correct technical term for this? Am I right in considering 1956 as the cut off date for this style?

The tailoring term for that type of lining is quarter lined. It has been employed by tailors and manufactures forever, and is still used today. With the exception, inexplicably, for the year 1956.