Boater faction!

Discussion in 'Hats' started by Alon, Feb 20, 2008.

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  1. steur

    steur

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    With all the hats I collected there was not a single boater among them. It's not a style I really care for nor am I likely to wear one, and The Netherlands is not exactly a straw hat country. But I can appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into making them and recently I was able to find one in my size (and cheap).
    I think it was sold through Luton, England based on the insides, but I'm not sure it was actually manufactured there, based on the label. Not a high end one I think; there's no Bon Ton Ivy sweatband (which is of low quality) and the ribbon is very plain.
    I still needed one for the collection and now I have one.
    boater_2.jpg boater_8.jpg boater_1.jpg boater_3.jpg boater_4.jpg boater_5.jpg boater_6.jpg boater_7.jpg
     
  2. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    Nice looking solid weave pattern, Stefan. Every collection should have a Boater.
    Congrats on yours.

     
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  3. steur

    steur

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    Thank you, Steve. It did feel like I was missing something.
     
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  4. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    Stefan, as you know, Luton was indeed the straw hat making centre of England for a couple of centuries. It's hay day being the mid 1800s to just before WWII. It's difficult to place where Luton hats ended up name wise or shop wise. Their ubiquity was indeed ubiquitous, but sadly almost nameless.

    Yours is more than likely of Luton manufacture.

    I have, what I believe to be, a very early 1900s boater. It's speckled weave is common for that era.

    Sadly, it's missing its sweatband. However, its pillow showing the shop it was sold in is intact. IMG_20201009_233558.jpg
    IMG_20201009_233609.jpg IMG_20201009_233634.jpg

     
  5. TheOldFashioned

    TheOldFashioned One Too Many

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    Western Straw Works boater, possibly late 1800s:
    20210125_143735.jpg 20210125_143810.jpg 20210125_144003.jpg 20210125_144028.jpg 20210125_144235.jpg FullSizeRender.jpg

    Specs:
    3-1/2" Crown
    2" Brim
    2-1/4" Ribbon
    177g Weight​

    The spiral weave on the crown and contrasting weave on the brim are beautifully done. The straw itself is still quite flexible, which is good because the seller shipped it in a box one size too small (even though I included the standard preemptive note thanking the seller in advance for carefully packaging this great vintage hat). As soon as the box arrived I knew there was going to be a problem. The hat arrived on edge with the brim slightly flexed so as to fit in the box. The result is a slight asymmetry which hopefully will settle over time. Even with the apparent pliability I hesitate to try to manipulate the straw too much for fear of any damage.

    The crown liner is some type of paper I believe. It sort of reminds me of waxed paper or kraft paper. It does have a finely ribbed texture with embossed lions as seen in the closeup of the crest. The sweat is devoid of any markings other than something hand written. It is neither brittle nor supple, so I proceeded with caution to check for anything on the back side with the aid of a telescopic inspection mirror. No other tags or markings were found.

    To my knowledge one other example from this maker exists, posted some years ago by @Joshbru3:
    IMG_3917.JPG IMG_3915.JPG

    Note the similar offset clocking of the sweatband seam.


    See the next post for some historical records of Western Straw Works.
     
  6. TheOldFashioned

    TheOldFashioned One Too Many

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    Looking through old San Francisco directory records the first mention of Western Straw Works is in 1877, proprietor Lorenzo Lapham:
    IMG_3883.jpg

    In 1887 the proprietor was listed as Thomas Kortick:
    IMG_3872.jpg

    The store was a victim of theft in 1895:
    IMG_3891.jpg

    The name seems to have been phased out around 1897/98 and changed to Thomas Kortick Straw Works:
    IMG_3875.jpg IMG_3876.jpg

    The last record for Thomas Kortick Straw Works was in 1905:
    IMG_3878.jpg

    The business may have been a casualty of the great earthquake and fire of 1906. St. Patrick's church was located at 756 Mission, which would have placed it across from Kortick's at 755 Mission:
    IMG_3895.jpg IMG_3914.jpg

    In later years Thomas Kortick's profession is listed as lather from 1910-1925, and he died in 1935.


    Old records for San Francisco are relatively few and far between, many having been destroyed themselves in the natural disaster. I wish I could have found more as this hat is now probably the most interesting piece in my collection.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 5, 2021
  7. steur

    steur

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    Seem to have missed this post for some reason. Luton was strawopolis and they did produce masses of hats there, but they were also the center of trade for hats made elsewhere, so in the end impossible to day for certain. I'll take it for being English made though, why not?
     
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  8. steur

    steur

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    Great find and wonderful story, Jonathan. Congrats.
     
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  9. Beautiful hat Jonathan! Nice sleuthing as well. Kudos!
     
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  10. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    Great find, Jonathan. Thanks for sharing the history of the maker, too.

    Hope it soon gets its shape back.

     
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  11. JJ Katz

    JJ Katz New in Town

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    A very belated post but one that, hopefully, will be of some interest to this community.
    Last September, during a brief respite from all the pandemic-related lockdowns, I organized teh (1st) Pukka Picnic which was dedicated to Bubbly, Boaters and Belles.
    Some images for you:

    IMG_0533.jpg NeilKirby06.jpg IsabellaFerretti10.jpg
     
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  12. JJ Katz

    JJ Katz New in Town

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    Some more (I do hope these are not redundant or inappropriate)

    IMG_0516.jpg IMG_0532.jpg IsabellaFerretti07.jpg IsabellaFerretti08.jpg
     
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  13. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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  14. JJ Katz

    JJ Katz New in Town

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    The Pukka Picnic was held in Holland Park, London.

    Definitely planning to hold another, next September, assuming epidemic conditions allow it.
     
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  15. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    I truly hope they do and that you can hold the 2nd annual Pukka Picnic.

    If not, hold it digitally and invite some of your FL friends along :)

     
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  16. steur

    steur

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  17. steur

    steur

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    Godet boater or canotier as the French would say. Size 55 or 54, so alas too small for me. Well made hat and a bon-ton ivy sweatband and very wide ribbon. It seems to have quite a bit of age to it as well.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    We can get a glimpse of the shop in the upper right corner of this picture from around 1905.
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    That is such a wonderful Boater, Stefan. I'm sure there are many of us cursing that it's not our size.

     
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  19. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    I'm pleased I picked up this one via Facebook Market Place. A W. Wood & Co of Oxford Street Boater, sold at Gustav Pragner's shop in Copenhagen. As yet, I haven't been able to find any information about these two establishments.

    Interestingly, the label is in Italian, so maybe it was made in Italy and not England. The size label showing centimetre, English, and punti sizes might also suggest it's not of English manufacture.

    It's in very good condition for its age, which I believe is pre-war. The leather sweatband is still quite supple, though it does have a tear in it. It's stitched to the inside in quite an interesting way as can be seen from the photos. IMG_20210216_154146.jpg
    IMG_20210216_121325.jpg IMG_20210216_173155.jpg IMG_20210216_143447.jpg IMG_20210216_143458.jpg IMG_20210216_164744.jpg The liner is also interesting. Not sure if it's vellum or some kind of rice paper.

    This one will certainly get some head time once the summer hits us :)
     
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