Cotton tartan is quite a bit thinner than cotton drill. I don't think it will be as durable (i have actually worn small holes in mine at the waistline), it does look great though and has an airy feel more similar to a thin cotton T-shirt compared to the tighter drill. Regarding the cuffs, both my size 40 bootleggers have buttoned cuffs, both made by Julie Leitch, yet they have a different diameter. The brown one i can put on without any trouble, the black one i need to force my hand through the cuff as it is noticeably tighter. I would assume that asking for "a fraction if an inch more room" would be a total crapshoot.