Boring Aero Sizing Question

[mysternee]

Okay team, I need your help with a timeless problem: pre-order sizing anxiety!

I'm looking at a Half-Belt Deluxe from Aero. I've spoken to Holly, and I'm very happy with her sizing suggestions in terms of back and sleeve length. But I'm a little bit cagey around the chest size.

Basically, my chest is about 37", give or take. My shoulders are about 18" across, and I typically take a 38 in most things above the waist; shirts, jackets, so on. This usually results in a loose fit, which as it happens I prefer. Based on everything I've said, Holly thinks I should go for a 36. But let's face it, this is based on what I've said, and I'm an idiot. I even got my measurements wrong in the initial email, so I probably have her all kinds of confused.

I've been reading around (obsessively, obviously), trying to figure out if the 1950s cuts tend to run large, true to size, or tight. Opinions seem to vary and move around, a lot. Which, incidentally, is what I'd like to be able to do in my jacket. At the same time, I'm conscious that as I'm getting it in (brown) CXL FQHH, it's unlikely to drape if I get it a little oversized. I don't want it to look like I'm wearing a cardboard box with a hole in it.

So can you fine folks here give me any tips? Does the Aero 1950s cut tend to comfortably run large, or is it more that if you want a fitted look, you need to size down? How much room is there in the shoulders? Any and all other thoughts?

I'd really appreciate any input, as I'm very happy and settled on everything else about the jacket. Cheers in advance!

 

[Carlos840]

Okay team, I need your help with a timeless problem: pre-order sizing anxiety!

I'm looking at a Half-Belt Deluxe from Aero. I've spoken to Holly, and I'm very happy with her sizing suggestions in terms of back and sleeve length. But I'm a little bit cagey around the chest size.

Basically, my chest is about 37", give or take. My shoulders are about 18" across, and I typically take a 38 in most things above the waist; shirts, jackets, so on. This usually results in a loose fit, which as it happens I prefer. Based on everything I've said, Holly thinks I should go for a 36. But let's face it, this is based on what I've said, and I'm an idiot. I even got my measurements wrong in the initial email, so I probably have her all kinds of confused.

I've been reading around (obsessively, obviously), trying to figure out if the 1950s cuts tend to run large, true to size, or tight. Opinions seem to vary and move around, a lot. Which, incidentally, is what I'd like to be able to do in my jacket. At the same time, I'm conscious that as I'm getting it in (brown) CXL FQHH, it's unlikely to drape if I get it a little oversized. I don't want it to look like I'm wearing a cardboard box with a hole in it.

So can you fine folks here give me any tips? Does the Aero 1950s cut tend to comfortably run large, or is it more that if you want a fitted look, you need to size down? How much room is there in the shoulders? Any and all other thoughts?

I'd really appreciate any input, as I'm very happy and settled on everything else about the jacket. Cheers in advance!

I wear a size 42 in most brands but a size 40 in Aero.
1950's cut tends to be pretty boxy compared to others.
I would trust Holly...

 

[Tom71]

Here’s the rule of thumb that works for me:

- 1930s cut: my usual size
- 1950s: one size down
- Premier Range: one size up.

E.g., my default size is 42. The above sizes will al result in an Aero with a P2P of 23“ approx., despite being tagged 40, 42, 44 respectively.

Holly‘s suggestion to go down one would be in line with my expectations. If you want to make extra sure, you can measure a well-fitting jacket and send photos to Holly.

 

[mysternee]

I wear a size 42 in most brands but a size 40 in Aero.
1950's cut tends to be pretty boxy compared to others.
I would trust Holly...

Here’s the rule of thumb that works for me:

- 1930s cut: my usual size
- 1950s: one size down
- Premier Range: one size up.

E.g., my default size is 42. The above sizes will al result in an Aero with a P2P of 23“ approx., despite being tagged 40, 42, 44 respectively.

Holly‘s suggestion to go down one would be in line with my expectations. If you want to make extra sure, you can measure a well-fitting jacket and send photos to Holly.

That's what I've been picking up as the general rule, but I'm just curious - what kind of fit does sizing down result in, typically? Is it still a nice roomy fit, or is it then fitting/snug at the shoulders? Do you find you can still layer comfortably?

 

[handymike]

A typical 38 would have 17.5” shoulders, so at 18” you are still getting some extra room (sz40ish).

 

[Tom71]

That's what I've been picking up as the general rule, but I'm just curious - what kind of fit does sizing down result in, typically? Is it still a nice roomy fit, or is it then fitting/snug at the shoulders? Do you find you can still layer comfortably?

Hmm, fit is so subjective...

I will try my best here:

The 1950s patterns generally are more boxy/roomy than the 1930s. Body is more square, armholes are lower (albeit not to an extent that range of motion is impaired), arm diameter is larger. Layering should be no problem if you get the right size.
Personally I find the 1930s patterns are layer friendly too, just a little more fitted.
With the Premier patterns, shoulders get pretty narrow and the armholes are so high up that a thick jumper will bundle up at the armpits. I can layer with my Premier HWM(s), but not with my remaining Board Racer.

Hope this helps.

 

[mysternee]

Here’s the rule of thumb that works for me:

- 1930s cut: my usual size
- 1950s: one size down
- Premier Range: one size up.

E.g., my default size is 42. The above sizes will al result in an Aero with a P2P of 23“ approx., despite being tagged 40, 42, 44 respectively.

Holly‘s suggestion to go down one would be in line with my expectations. If you want to make extra sure, you can measure a well-fitting jacket and send photos to Holly.

Hmm, fit is so subjective...

I will try my best here:

The 1950s patterns generally are more boxy/roomy than the 1930s. Body is more square, armholes are lower (albeit not to an extent that range of motion is impaired), arm diameter is larger. Layering should be no problem if you get the right size.
Personally I find the 1930s patterns are layer friendly too, just a little more fitted.
With the Premier patterns, shoulders get pretty narrow and the armholes are so high up that a thick jumper will bundle up at the armpits. I can layer with my Premier HWM(s), but not with my remaining Board Racer.

Hope this helps.

Alright, I emailed Aero with pictures of me in a couple of jackets, and as Holly was on holiday Chloe replied. She gave me the base dimensions of the 36, and on that basis I'm going to stick with Holly's advice. The 1950s 36 should have plenty of room, and I think a 38 would swamp me as it's not really going to drape or anything.

Thanks for the input and advice folks, I'll update you when it gets here!

 

[Edward]

Holly knows what she's doing with sizing and patterns. @Tom71 's rule of thumb is a pretty good guide if you can't try one on, but always check with Holly. I tend to find the key measurement that I go by if I'm unsure between two p2p sizes is the hem / waist measurement. I'd always take a little loose on the chest and shoulders over too tight to do up comfortably on the waist.

In terms of fit, the 50s HB pattern (also the base for the Bootlegger) is somewhere between the Highwayman and the 30s Slim HB.