Calling on all AERO "Happy Days" Jacket owners...

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by Dagenham Dave, Dec 8, 2014.

  1. Edward

    Edward Bartender

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    Sounds close to a HWM. Boxier than an A2, which is consistrnt with the originals I've seen (more like a leather B15 thsn an A2).
     
  2. thor

    thor One Too Many

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    We're WAY past the simpler days of just ordering by numerical (ie 38, 40, 42, etc) chest sizes and "regular" or "long" jacket lengths. The specific jacket style, material, and manufacturer all influence the final, actual measurements of a certain sized jacket.
     
  3. Fanch

    Fanch I'll Lock Up

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    Those measurements are more or less consistent with my size 42 Pioneer, which is close to that of a 50's jacket. On the other hand my Mulligan and Maxwell, both size 42 in the 30's slimfit style, are 24" pit to pit and 19" shoulder. Needless to say, the Mulligan and Maxwell fit more snugly than the Pioneer, although I am OK with the fit of all three. Maybe worthwhile reading again Aero's info on their website.
    http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/custom.php
     
  4. Dagenham Dave

    Dagenham Dave One of the Regulars

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    I think knowing pit-to-pit measurement before ordering online is absolutely imperative.

    And although the pit-to-pit of the size 42 Happy Days jacket is at 25", it's not totally unheard of. My recently purchased Buzz Rickson's L-2A by Superior Togs (bought from Charles at History Preservation Associates - incidentally the greatest person I have ever had the pleasure of dealing with regarding an online purchase), has a pit-to-pit of 25". But it fits me beautifully and perfectly period correct for a 1950 flight jacket, despite being slightly shorter in the body and sleeve length compared to my other 50s jackets. But it was only thanks to Charles' superior knowledge of the products he stocks and ALL their measurements that insured the size 42 was spot on.
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2014
  5. Fanch

    Fanch I'll Lock Up

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    So you should have the size nailed down at 42. Make sure the back and sleeves are long enough. If you are over 6'3" I would probably go with a back of 27" and sleeves no less than 27" and maybe slightly longer than that. I have long arms and normally wear a 16.5 X 37 shirt and would order 27.5" sleeves. Nothing worse than "stork sleeves." :D
     
  6. Superfluous

    Superfluous My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    The foregoing comments show just how useless the standard chest size designations are. 24 and 25 inch P2P measurements for a "42" jacket are, in my experience, very wide. I just received a jacket that is marked a "42" and the P2P is 22.25 inches. I would never order a jacket based on the standard designations, without a specific P2P measurement. To the contrary, when I order jackets, I specify the P2P that I want, and I let the manufacturer select the appropriate designation.
     
  7. Seb Lucas

    Seb Lucas I'll Lock Up

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    That's right. My own view is that 25 inches for a 42 is more like Gibson and Barnes sizing. My 44's from Johnson Leathers are 23.5 inches P to P. My old 42 1930's Aero half-belt was 22.5 (with 18.5 shoulders. A little narrow up top for me). My 46 Brooks cafe racer is 23.5 P to P.

    So yeah, P to P is a separate issue to the marked jacket size. That said I also think different jackets can get away with different P to P sizes. A Highwayman is a boxy design for instance and a larger P to P would work for it okay. The Fonzie too, probably. Although I would probably prefer an inch slimmer.
     
  8. Dagenham Dave

    Dagenham Dave One of the Regulars

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    This is what I sent to Aero today:

    Size wise, I would definitely be running off a size 42 Happy Days:
    Pit – Pit 25”
    Across shoulders – 19.5”​


    Does the leather stretch/drop over time, because I really don't want this jacket to be too long?

    So if the difference between the centre back to shoulder seam is only 0.5”, and the jacket does not stretch over time, then I would choose a 26.5” back length.

    In summary, I want the overall length of the finished jacket to be no more than 27” from the highest point of the shoulder where it meets the collar seam down to the very bottom of the waist wool ribbing for both front and back lengths.

    Also, I like my shoulders to fall flat along my shoulder/arm. I hate squared off boxy shoulders where the shoulder seam joins the arm. Will your shoulders sit nice and flat, or require years of breaking in?

    My sleeves would need to be 27.25” to account for the slightly narrower shoulders of 19.5” compared with my other 50s repro jackets.

    Could you bring in the pit to pit to 24.5”?

    Can I specify bottom opening measurements?

    21” (just above waistband – stretched / before ribbed cuff attached)
    19 ¼” (at top of un-stretched waistband)
    18” (at bottom of un-stretched waistband)

    Talk soon, and thanks again.

    I don't know if I'm wanting too much now, or screwing too much with the jacket's correct silhouette, but I guess it doesn't hurt to ask.

    Cheers to ALL of you on The Lounge for listening and helping me,
    Dave
     
  9. Dagenham Dave

    Dagenham Dave One of the Regulars

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    From this AERO link:

    "The problem is simple, heavy leather is hard to fold at the seams and slight variation in the folding of a seam can give variations to the precise measurement of the joined panels. While we try to allow for thicknesses while cutting a jacket it's impossible to guaranteed an exact measurement around the body for example where there are at least four folded vertical seams while most of our jackets have six vertical folds or more. Add this to difficulty to providing an across the shoulder measurement, the least precise jacket measurement there is due to the variations in the cut of sleeve holes from one style to another and to the precise location of the shoulder seam, something else that varies greatly from one manufacturer to another, and even from one jacket style to another within the same maker's range.

    This leaves us no options other than to be unable to guarantee measurements of a finished jacket to be any more precise than to be within ½" of requirements."



    I guess that's fair...

    So guess I need to ask for the following to allow for the 1/2" guarantee, with minimums and maximums I could tolerate:

    Pit-to-pit: desired = 24.5 (min =24, max = 25)

    Shoulders: desired = 19.5, but I don't think I would like a 19 minimum, so need to ask for 19.75 (min = 19.25, max =20.25)

    Sleeve length: desired = 27.5 (min = 27, max = 28)

    Jacket length: desired = 26.5 (min =26 (barely tolerable), max = 27)
    [this is most stressful because I absolutely do not want a jacket longer than 27 from shoulder seam to bottom, and if I get a 27 centre-back measurement, it will be 27.5 from shoulder seam to bottom (allowing for the difference in height from centre-back to shoulder seam of 0.5”), which is 0.5" longer than I'd like!?!? But I just can't risk the opposite scenario - shorter than 26.5 from shoulder seam to bottom!?!?]​


    Jacket opening (just above waistband – stretched / before ribbed cuff attached): desired = 21, but I think I need to ask for 21.25 (min = 20.75, max = 21.75)

    Waistband - I assume this should be fairly straight forward to get accurate. Therefore:
    (at top of un-stretched waistband): desired = 19.25
    (at bottom of un-stretched waistband): desired = 18

    It's just so damn stressful!!! :eeek:
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2014
  10. Rudie

    Rudie Call Me a Cab

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    I think they are talking about measurements like back and sleeve length, not full bespoke service. Your wishes would require a completely new pattern. Good luck with that.
     
  11. Dagenham Dave

    Dagenham Dave One of the Regulars

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    But even back and sleeve length requests will need to allow for the 1/2" guarantee, with minimums and maximums I could tolerate.
     
  12. wdw

    wdw One Too Many

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    Dave, having been there, the more you specify, the greater the chance of disappointment. If you have the chest sorted now, I'd advise you to just give them your back and sleeve lengths and hope for the best.

    I'm no expert, but I think that specifying a shoulder width that doesn't match the pattern leads to knock-on effects on the chest and sleeves, and that means more customisation than Aero would normally do.

    I believe AL are more receptive to detailed specs, and they're generally cheaper and quicker. Have you tried them, as their patterns are very similar?
     
  13. Seb Lucas

    Seb Lucas I'll Lock Up

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    Don't know about that. If a person is canny they get to know what works in all their key measurements. But if you don't know what works best then you need to take good care.
     
  14. wdw

    wdw One Too Many

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    Dave, thinking about it, if Aero are OK with your specs, then it will be money well spent, as you'll get the jacket you want, in the fitting you want, and you'll also have the advantage of knowing that their customer service is second to none.

    From my own experience, they've sorted out any issues I've had very quickly, so you definitely shouldn't end up with a jacket you're not delighted with. Good luck anyway.
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2014
  15. Dagenham Dave

    Dagenham Dave One of the Regulars

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    Who are AL (excuse my ignorance)?
     
  16. Fanch

    Fanch I'll Lock Up

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    You might be attempting to overthink the situation. The Happy Days jacket would allow significant variation in fit and doesn't need to be that exact. The back length measurement is from the bottom of the collar hem, not the top and suspect 27" should be ok.
     
  17. wdw

    wdw One Too Many

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    Dave, AL are Alexander Leathers. I've not used them as I'm happy with Aero's service and see no need to change.
     
  18. Dagenham Dave

    Dagenham Dave One of the Regulars

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    Thanks wdw. I'm stating to feel very confident with Aero now.
     
  19. Dagenham Dave

    Dagenham Dave One of the Regulars

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Australia
    Which leather for my Aero "Happy Days" Jacket?

    Now that I have decided on the AERO "Happy Days", what leather do you suggest?

    I really love this - SEAL BROWN SMOOTHE HORSEHIDE with the same colour wool as depicted in the picture:

    SEAL BROWN SMOOTHE HORSEHIDE.jpg


    Or BROWN HEAVY FRONT QUARTER CHROMEXCEL HORSEHIDE:

    Brown Heavy Front Quarter Chromexcel Horsehide.jpg

    Or do you have another particular leather that you recommend for it? I definitely want brown, but don’t like the vintage horsehide. I want the jacket to like brand new like it would have if I wore it out of the department store after I bought it in 1952!

    Cheers,
    Dave
     
  20. Sloan1874

    Sloan1874 I'll Lock Up

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    I would go with the straight ahead classic FQHH brown, DD. The depth of colour is amazing, and the patina and grading it develops over time is fantastic. I've never read anyone who's been disappointed by it. Seal for your next one! ;)
     

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