Could you please elaborate? As far as I know shinki is a tannery that produces an abundance of different types of hide. The ones I have seen in person look less heavily processed compared to others I have seen.Shinki, like Thedi, is heavily processed hide to make it look vintage
Thedi can offer a washed hide if you ask it. Mine is not washed and does not look like vintage“Processed” is a vague word that could be like @cbez explained above — anything extra done to the hide to achieve an intentional effect. For instance, Thedi does extra stuff (washing and drying?) to their hides after the tanning process to make it look like it’s been used for quite some time—artificial aging if you will.
Below is a quote on artificial aging from CBI of VLJ, maybe Thedi does something similar:
“I own a lot of jackets with only a 5 month weather window were I live to wear them (all A-2's and an A-1). I love these jackets but not a brand new look and not a 60 year old look. Somewhere between 100 and 200 combat flight hours is my preferred look! It takes me a very long time to get to this point/look ‘just’ wearing them. In addition I enjoy painting them and my favorite thing is ………………………. Weathering them, I just love it. Goat is hard to age seeing as it’s so tough so I leave the goats alone (except for painting, actually, I have aged one adding wear using paint). Cow and horse – great! A new jacket arrives, I wear it for a few days, decide for sure all is OK. I then start crinkling up the jacket with my hands, telescoping the arms, pressing them into the ground, etc. Then, using 90% rubbing alcohol, I weather the seams, edges: pockets, collar leather next top knits, etc. This adds a great used look. Done carefully, it takes 4 to 6 hours per jacket with the alcohol. One can also use the harder plastic scrub portion of a sponge but that does actually scratch the leather. I have hot water treated about 15 jackets most of which could be characterized as ‘new’. Some others don’t get the hot water. I use warm to hot water in the tub, let the jacket soak through, wring it out and put it (zipped up) in the dryer ON A REGULAR SETTING not low heat. I then check the jacket every 20-30 minutes. After an hour or so, I turn the jacket inside out (still zipped) and back in the dryer as long as it takes to dry the liner and knits. Then, right side out for the remainder. Its easy to wimp out towards the end (letting it air dry that last little bit so there is no damage) but this is the best part and the final drying with heat really makes the grain pop (removes oils, water, etc). Higher heat - more pop (also more chance of damage but .....) Total time 3 hours+ (that with the checking time thrown in). I have done this with brand new Aeros, ELC, and Goodwears. I have never had any problem doing this, no jacket damage of any kind. Sometimes one can use alcohol on the jacket to add some age (areas other than seams). In regards artwork, I do that after a water treatment if I am planning on really aging before painting. I am not sure I would do all of this heavy weathering after a paint job. I would not do anything to an original but I no longer collect those. For me, my main hobby/challenge if you will with repro A-2’s is seeing how well I can age them. Strange I know but really fun and for me, worth the risk! All of my jackets (painted and unpainted) have some ageing that I have added. Just a little seam work can make a HUGE difference.”
Himel’s video on Shinki hide and their tanning process that separates them from other tanneries:
pig, easily identifiable via the three-dotted pores of hair follicle
1930s-40s Kit Carson
View attachment 743005
How many Shinki jackets do you own out of curiosity? I own six and no two of them are alike. A couple of them are quite grainy while another couple show almost no grain at all, they still look quite new.Shinki, like Thedi, is heavily processed hide to make it look vintage or like some other type of hide.
How many Shinki jackets do you own out of curiosity? I own six and no two of them are alike. A couple of them are quite grainy while another couple show almost no grain at all, they still look quite new.
Rather than calling this thread a “Guide on Hide” I think “jchance’s totally random thoughts and opinions about leather” would be a far more accurate name.
John Lofgren Monkey Boots Shinki Horsebuttt - $1,136 The classic monkey boot silhouette in an incredibly rich Shinki russet horse leather.
Grant Stone Diesel Boot Dark Olive Chromexcel - $395 Goodyear welted, Horween Chromexcel, classic good looks.
Schott 568 Vandals Jacket - $1,250 The classic Perfecto motorcycle jacket, in a very special limited-edition Schott double rider style. But fine, you win... You can have a discussion with and among yourself...
The 'pigskin' example that was shown by jchance most likely wasn't pigskin but printed capeskin. Back in the 30s printed leathers were in vogue.There's still some that are very easy to differentiate (ostrich, pig, gator family)
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