Double Breasted Vests

[Lokar]

fftopic:

Looking at the first link Marc posted, the photo of the tailcoat:

I suppose the waistcoat has to be that much longer as people refuse to wear high waisted trousers, but it just looks so awful. Seeing a "bespoke tailor" showing that as a photo is awful.

 

[mike]

Mr. Daswani of MySuitShop.com. He's made me up a few pieces, and one of those was a wonderful repro of a waist-coat from an 1890s clothing catalogue. The vest was pretty reasonable considering all of the custom details I had (Italian linen-silk blend linen woven material with hand made woven selvage buttons. NONE of those metal base ones & etc.) He starts his vests at about $65. He also does any shirt pretty much for little or no extra charge as a detachable collar model. He's a good guy and knows what he's about and is also very professional about it.

Do you have any pictures of the items you've had made?

 

[John in Covina]

A young Franklin Pangborn. I like the formal DB vest here.

 

[John in Covina]

I'd like the Pangborn version, one in a grey and one in an ivory color.

 

[Evan Everhart]

Do you have any pictures of the items you've had made?

Close up view of me in my yellow linen silk (linen weave) DB selvage button waist-coat with notched lapels.

Full view as worn under coat with lower hem (waist-coat's points) visible.

In the bottom picture, I'm wearing the detachable collared pull-on French-cuffed tunic shirt with the detachable collar which my tailor Mr. Daswani made for it. They along with the waist-coat were custom jobs.

 

[Evan Everhart]

What do you think about double breasted vests???

Yeah I know that it's definately not working class. But what do you think? Too over the top?

I saw that style offered in the vintage add posted on the vestmanship thread???

I'm kinda thinking a good med brown or a black w/ subtle pinstripe???

What kinda jacket would a double breasted vest go with???


Brody

Pinstriped items unless they are trousers are never worn with other non-matching items. For instance, a pinstriped coat is not worn without matching trousers and a pinstriped waist-coat is most definitely never worn without matching trousers and a matching coat. the only pinstriped item which may be correctly worn by themselves are formal striped trousers for Morning formal wear. The only exception to wearing a striped coat by itself, is an old fashioned club coat and that, is usually not pinstriped, but boldly striped in the clubs colours and is specifically meant to be worn by club members. Waist-coats are usually in various tones and shades of white, gray, black, and buff or yellow. though, if the waist-coat is to be worn with a business or leisure suit or a sport coat or blazer and non-matching (usually gray trousers), the waist-coat really be buff, yellow, gray, or perhaps white if you really want to look ultra formal. other than that, white and especially black are usually reserved as colours for formal waist-coats which do not coordinate with a suit.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Pinstriped items unless they are trousers are never worn with other non-matching items. ...a pinstriped waist-coat is most definitely never worn without matching trousers and a matching coat.

Not strictly true. Riding waistcoats can have tattersall stripes or vertical stripes, even though the jacket and trousers/riding breeches don't.


See the British riding waistcoat below. It was made as an 'odd' piece, not as a matched part of a suit.

.

 

[Geesie]

But of course. Start at:


http://www.buckleighs-waistcoats.co.uk/customwaistcoats.html

http://www.wwmerc.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=535344&type=store&category=3120

http://www.wwmerc.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=CM59&type=store&category=3920

http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/store/000621.php

Also an option.

 

[Evan Everhart]

Not strictly true. Riding waistcoats can have tattersall stripes or vertical stripes, even though the jacket and trousers/riding breeches don't.


See the British riding waistcoat below. It was made as an 'odd' piece, not as a matched part of a suit.

.

From what I've always seen, tattersal is a plaid pattern....The vest is certainly illuminating though! Hmm....I wouldn't wear a non coordinating contrasting coloured striped waist-coat for the life of me but I suppose that some might? I love the cut of the thing though! (but perhaps not the pocket flaps) Perhaps it was originally a part of some Summer suit that was converted to a riding waist-coat when the rest had received too much wear already? It is in a Summer pattern and Winter in England is decidedly colder than Winter in most of the United States (especially California)....Don't know. But interesting none-the-less! I've just never seen anyone wearing a mismatched pinstriped vest in equitation. I'll look into it and check out those lovely links! Thanks again Marc!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

From what I've always seen, tattersall is a plaid pattern....

Yes indeed, it's a windowpane pattern.

.

 

[Tomasso]

Pinstriped items unless they are trousers are never worn with other non-matching items. For instance, a pinstriped coat is not worn without matching trousers

Except if you're a Golden Era dandy.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Except if you're a Golden Era dandy.

That's Sir Guy Standing, an excellent British actor who shone in numerous '30s Paramount films: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sir_Guy_Standing




.

 

[John in Covina]

Matt Deckard Apparel Order of an Ivory DB Vest

I have taken the plunge and engaged Matt Deckard Apparel to have made a double breasted vest in a ivory wool flannel that will be similar to this vest. I am getting a tad more curve or belly to the lapels.

My hopes are quite high as Matt's attention to detail is quite refined, so i am in good hands.

 

[Highlander]

I have some COWS(Classic Old West Styles) vests, and a couple of Wah-Maker vests. But the best Double Breasteds I have are from Old Frontier Clothing Company:

http://www.oldfrontier.com/ofcc_doubreast.htm

 

[rlk]

DB Gray Vest

Awaiting its arrival...

 

[dakotanorth]

Speaking of which.

What IS the proper fit for a traditional-styled vest? I see many today now they they are coming back into fashion, but those are made KNOWING they won't be worn under a suit jacket- hence, they are the outerwear.
Should a vest touch the beltline in back?
How far does it go down in the front?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

What IS the proper fit for a traditional-styled vest? I see many today now they they are coming back into fashion, but those are made KNOWING they won't be worn under a suit jacket- hence, they are the outerwear.
Should a vest touch the beltline in back?
How far does it go down in the front?

It depends on the era, or even the decade. In the '30s, these vests were worn very high. Thirty years earlier, they were notably lower.


.

 

[norton]

I like double breasted vests but hadn't figured out how I'd wear one. Then last week I was watching the Steve McQueen Thomas Crowne Affair and noticed that he was wearing what looked like a navy suit with a matching double breasted vest. It looked quite nice, and since it was sixties vintage I don't think it would look too out of place today. I'm thinking of having one made up by the same tailor who made my navy suit last summer.

 

[HoundstoothLuke]

I have this lovely houndstooth 2 piece single breasted suit with peaked lapels, and am considering getting a double breasted waistcoat made to go with it. What do people think about this idea? Is it "too much" houndstooth, or would it look great?

 

[John in Covina]

It depends on the era, or even the decade. In the '30s, these vests were worn very high. Thirty years earlier, they were notably lower.

It seems though that the vest still is made to go to or just over the top of the pants and so as the high waisted look has slipped to lower waisted the vests followed the belt line.