Educate me about zippers

[Rgcards]

I recently purchased a jacket that had an unusual feature; a zipper with a spring on the puller. A quick Google search made me realize that this spring loaded Crown zipper was a desirable feature for which people paid extra. This made me realize; I really have no idea what people look for in a zipper, or why people prefer certain brands if zipper. I do know that I consider hookless zippers to be a menace; I've almost become entrapped in a jacket a couple of times due to these, and I've broken one on a real mccoys. But what do people here value in a zipper, and why would you pay extra for a particular type? Other than the hookless are some more prone to failure? Thanks

 

[NamoAmituofo]

For me - a zipper needs to tick these boxes:

1) big/robust enough relevant to the leather weight/thickness

2) zips and unzips smoothly

3) looks cool

4) makes nice sound when zipping /unzipping!

I didn’t appreciate 4) till I had my first jacket with spring loaded Crown - man that sound is so smooth!

 

[Carlos840]

+ 1 to all of the above

Finish is also very important to me, any artificially aged finish is an instant disqualification to me, i think they look horrible.

Design wise I love the weird and unusual ones...
These are the peak of my collection:

https://imgur.com/B2a6100

Big fan of this old and pretty rare clamshell Talon:

And then the shape of the teeth i pay attention to.
People can hate on "overpriced Crown zips" all they want, no other brand has teeth that look that cool:

 

[TartuWolf]

Of all the jackets I've owned the only zipper that made me go WOW and fall in love was a Waldes two-way.
I haven't had any more of those, but that has become my grail.

The one I had (behold!):

I have no experience with Crown but I'd love to try the spring loaded one.
I've heard good things about RiRi, never owned one, getting a jacket with #8 main RiRi soon, then I can decide what I think about them. They don't look the best to me, that's for sure. Somehow too modern. Cool teeth on some of them though!

Some of the Talon zippers look pretty great to me as well.
YKK is too generic I guess.

 

[NamoAmituofo]

Riri teeth looks OK but the sound and ‘feedback’ to the fingers are dreadful… if you play golf, it feels like hitting a blade iron off centre .

Crown feels like hitting the sweet spot!

One downside about Crown is how chewy the teeth can be when unzipped - can cut your arm, or cut into the leather if sleeves are unzipped and teeth exposed

 

[El Marro]

I never thought much about zippers until I started buying expensive leather jackets and experienced tragic zipper failure. After that I decided I don’t really care much what the zipper looks like as long as it works. I do have the coveted spring loaded Crown zips on a couple of my jackets but I am honestly just as happy with a riri or YKK. Function over form for me.

 

[Will Zach]

I like NOS #10 Talons.

Still available on ebay for $30 give or take if you look.

 

[Camel24hrs]

Have a crown on an Eastman RW 1401-P and a Talon on an Eastman RW 27752. I love the crown on the 1401-P because it is what was the original 1401-P and it looks cool. As for the smoothness of the zipper I have to say the talon wins hands down. It slides like it has been greased. Just real smooth.

 

[jchance]

I have a Star Glove with Crown sleeve zippers. The spring loaded Crown makes the zipper stay in place, folded down, without it dangling around or moving. I like it a lot and think that Crown’s spring loaded zippers make the most sense for sleeves.

The Star Gloves also has 40s-50s diamond pull zippers (prob Talon) that are the smoothest zipper I’ve ever used. It takes almost no force to use, I’m amazed at its operation.

I really like Talon #10 for the main zipper. It’s the most heavy duty zipper I’ve ever used. It would be even better if it’s a two-way zipper.

 

[Doctor Death]

I never thought much about zippers until I started buying expensive leather jackets and experienced tragic zipper failure. After that I decided I don’t really care much what the zipper looks like as long as it works. I do have the coveted spring loaded Crown zips on a couple of my jackets but I am honestly just as happy with a riri or YKK. Function over form for me.

+1 definitely! Failure is not an option. It's got to work everytime, no exceptions.

 

[Monitor]

I am now of the opinion that zippers have no business on a leather jacket. Much is at risk for little benefit.

 

[jchance]

I am now of the opinion that zippers have no business on a leather jacket. Much is at risk for little benefit.

Knit also gives out way too quickly. That leaves button, which is an easy DIY fix with some needle and thread.

I think the obsession with zippers is just looking for one that works well without repeated failures and replacements. If you do it right, you do it once.

 

[onstar]

Not made of plastic would be a nice start....

 

[GHT]

Educate me About Zippers. Watch

There's Something About Mary.

 

[jchance]

Not made of plastic would be a nice start....

Before I got into the leather jacket game and learned about zippers, I have had a Herschel duffle bag that I love, but the zipper broke after several years of usage. I had its zipper replaced with some hefty, heavy-duty plastic zipper. It still works great.

 

[El Marro]

I am now of the opinion that zippers have no business on a leather jacket. Much is at risk for little benefit.

I chuckled when I read this but the more I think about it the more I agree. In ten years of collecting leather jackets I have had main zippers fail on five jackets. all of these have been jackets from reputable makers (only one Aero in the bunch, by the way) and the hides have ranged from super heavy LW horsehide all the way down to lighter 3 oz Eastman horsehide.
I have not had many learther jackets with buttons or snaps, but the ones I’ve had have been problem free.

 

[onstar]

Before I got into the leather jacket game and learned about zippers, I have had a Herschel duffle bag that I love, but the zipper broke after several years of usage. I had its zipper replaced with some hefty, heavy-duty plastic zipper. It still works great.

Vanson uses plastic zippers.. Shame