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Five Stars Leathers: remake of a 30's "Aviator's" style Jacket

Mysteryo

One Too Many
Messages
1,262
Location
Nantes (FR)
I was lucky enough to grab what seems to be a 30’s west coast jacket, a couple of years ago.
Its a beautiful and rare « aviator’s » type, alike those made by Ralph Pugh, or Block Bilt... Made of a nice sheepskin (not 100% sure) in an overall god condition for it’s age but a short and also fragile.


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I took the decision of having it reproduced by 5 Stars, after unsuccessfully offering it to remake by Norshor Leather or Field Leathers.

Shawn/Ali accepted right away and I sent the jacket to Pakistan, where it arrived safely.

I had prepared an illustrated note to explain the tweaks I expected on the remake, as well as the specifications on leather, lining, hardware…

Required Specs:

*30’s Sport Jacket repro*
-seal brown HH 1,2mm
-green/gold satin lining for body
-black satin lining for sleeve
-n°3 repro talon zipper for chest pockets
-n°5 repro talon zipper for main closure
-horn buttons (brown) at sleeve
-russet tread

Please:
Reproduce the overall pattern and keep fitting measurements, just add length (see below) and slightly move elements (see below)
-add 5cm length all around jacket at bottom
-don’t lower pocket
-lower yoke at back 5cm
-lower half belt and side straps accordingly
-slightly move/center pocket on D pocket (see picture)
-respect seams distance (3/4 mm)
-reproduce slight curves around nake collar.
-reproduce slight curves of sleeve



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Shawn and his team started to work on the pattern and sent me pictures about a week later. They didn’t tear the original for that.

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I salute the very good communication with 5 stars, sending pictures and reassuring me with any question I had.
Here’s the steps on the making.

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Then finally another week or so, later, the jacket was almost done!
I received pictures of the measurements for validation
 

Attachments

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Mysteryo

One Too Many
Messages
1,262
Location
Nantes (FR)
Now the jacket’s done and it looks very promising!
I cant wait to receiving it and see how it fits.

Waiting time has come

Original

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Repro:

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tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,493
Location
Illinois
Thanks for the interesting post. The original may be a pony hide or calf skin. I've got pony hides from this era that looks similar.

What is the cost for such a project?

having the original is certainly a plus?

Is this jacket in their offerings now?

Do they like these projects?
 

Mysteryo

One Too Many
Messages
1,262
Location
Nantes (FR)
Thanks for the interesting post. The original may be a pony hide or calf skin. I've got pony hides from this era that looks similar.

What is the cost for such a project?

having the original is certainly a plus?

Is this jacket in their offerings now?

Do they like these projects?
hey, Terry
Well it cost me 350€ (I did not try and trade "a free remake for a new model in their line")
It seems that replicating from an original pattern is what they do best.
I dont know if this jacket will be in their offering, we did not discuss that .
I dunno whever they like doing this or not. But as long as it's not a copy of an existing brand, they seem ok to do it.
As for the leather, I asked for a tea core HH, i did not require a particular thickness, and I DID NOT receive the jacket yet (should be here in a few days), so I'll keep you posed when I got it.
The original fitted me well, so I just asked a few lenght in the body, and some moves on the pockets.
 

58panheadfan

One Too Many
Messages
1,554
Location
Switzerland
Now the jacket’s done and it looks very promising!
I cant wait to receiving it and see how it fits.

Waiting time has come

Original

View attachment 534916

Repro:

View attachment 534915 View attachment 534911 View attachment 534913 View attachment 534914

Now the jacket’s done and it looks very promising!
I cant wait to receiving it and see how it fits.

Waiting time has come

Original

View attachment 534916

Repro:

View attachment 534915 View attachment 534911 View attachment 534913 View attachment 534914

A nice and hopefully successful project in the end. I'm looking forward to the fit pics and a short review in terms of wearing comfort etc. As I already mentioned, I am more than satisfied with my two 5* leather jackets (Roadmaster and Trojan). The guys from 5* did a really great job! Of course, as explained in the 5* thread, you have to give them a lot of detailed information in all kind of matters, but if you have done your homework right, you can look forward to a nice product. In terms of quality/price, 5* cannot currently be beaten on the market. Both waxed steer hide leathers in black and seal brown are absolutely great and can be compared with leathers from manufacturers in a different price range. Of course, ethics in general must be left out of products in low-wage countries.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,493
Location
Illinois
hey, Terry
Well it cost me 350€ (I did not try and trade "a free remake for a new model in their line")
It seems that replicating from an original pattern is what they do best.
I dont know if this jacket will be in their offering, we did not discuss that .
I dunno whever they like doing this or not. But as long as it's not a copy of an existing brand, they seem ok to do it.
As for the leather, I asked for a tea core HH, i did not require a particular thickness, and I DID NOT receive the jacket yet (should be here in a few days), so I'll keep you posed when I got it.
The original fitted me well, so I just asked a few lenght in the body, and some moves on the pockets.
Thank you.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,584
Of course, ethics in general must be left out of products in low-wage countries.

On this point, tailoring and machining are respected skilled trade professions in the Subcontinent. Five Star's operation seems to be a high end one in that sense.
 

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,391
Location
Iowa
Sure looks like a great sucess! Hope it fits you as well as it looks, love the deep seal brown leather in the recreation jacket, with fine attention to detail, as is quite obvious.
 

Mysteryo

One Too Many
Messages
1,262
Location
Nantes (FR)
Hey guys,
I just received the jacket, just 2 days after shipping! DHL
Along with the original jacket.

Here the fit picts, I just let them talk.

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Even if I don’t look like it, I’m VERY pleased with the results!
The hide is a tea core thick HH,
The pattern is very comfortable without being boxy, the length is exactly what I expected and the stitching and details are great!
(I love the buttons)

What I would change if I had to do it again, on this jacket: lower the pockets by 1 inch.

Wonderful job by Five Stars, maybe other remakes to follow?

What do you think?
 

TartuWolf

Practically Family
Messages
972
Location
Tartu, Estonia
Looks very nice. Some fit pics zipped up please! I remember you mentioned that you asked to increase the length but keep the pockets where they are - I guess that was the mistake. Would definitely look better with pockets lower. The back gusset seems extremely functional/useful! Looks like 5* did a great job!
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,960
Wow, great job. That looks absolutely amazing.

One thing I'd change is the sleeve length, I'd spec them about 2 cm shorter. And maybe the cuff circumference, spec it slightly more narrow. But that's just knit picking. The overalls silhouette is what's important, they've nailed it.
 

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