German & Austrian Hutmachers

Discussion in 'Hats' started by mayserwegener, Sep 1, 2008.

  1. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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  2. 65 Classic

    65 Classic Practically Family

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    Thank you! I will post when I get the pics
     
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  3. 65 Classic

    65 Classic Practically Family

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    Yes, it's in fantastic condition.
     
  4. Daniele Tanto

    Daniele Tanto My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    I had something in mind for a couple of days and it was this Habig. Great Steve!
     
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  5. Daniele Tanto

    Daniele Tanto My Mail is Forwarded Here

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    Molto bello!
     
  6. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    Daniele, Thank you!
     
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  7. 65 Classic

    65 Classic Practically Family

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    Thank you Daniel!
     
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  8. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    J. Heinr. Ita Wien K. u. K. Hof- Hutfabrikant Envelope Seal, diameter 6 cm, probably very early 1900s and a recent arrival. Printed by Braune und Schwenke Wien.

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    Last edited: Dec 10, 2019
  9. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    Hückel Weilheim "Velvet", 59 cm, Over Welt Brim, possibly late 1950s early 1960s. This is the first "Velvet" quality I have encountered. The felt is very soft with a great color mix and finish. The finish is similar to Velour but a bit looser.

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    Open Crown

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  10. M Hatman

    M Hatman My Mail is Forwarded Here

    I know that is a stingy brim and all.....but that color and finish just POPS....I really like it! Too bad it is not a 60 or 61.....
     
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  11. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    Thanks! Yes the felt is really unique. The brim is 2 1/4 inches so not so stingy. I will post photos wearing it in the next couple days.
     
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  12. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    I noticed that the above hat is from A. Breiter Rosenhiem. Turns out this is where Adalbert Breiter was located prior to München. I might have come across this prior but forgot about it. Here is a rough translation from their site.

    "
    How time flies: 1863-2019

    A company chronicle with ups and downs

    The history of the company Breiter goes back to the year 1863, when Adalbert Breiter still sold his handmade hats in Rott am Inn with his horse-drawn carriage in the communities around Rott am Inn. Around 1870 such a good hat , the so-called "velvet", a velor hat of particularly high quality, cost about 7 gold marks. For a proud price such a hat had to last a lifetime.

    Even before the beginning of the 20th century, the company founder Adalbert Breiter decided to move to the nearby county town Rosenheim. There he sold in his house, the shop and workshop at the same time, in addition to his handmade hats and industrially manufactured hats . Adalbert Breiter promptly adapted to the different needs of the urban and rural population and soon became the city's leading hat shop.

    In 1911 the son of the late Adalbert Breiter von Rosenheim went to Munich to expand his business and acquire more customers. In commercial foresight, he acquired the hat shop Eberl-Wolf in the Dachauer Straße 14, which is still the warehouse and at the same time the administrative and online headquarters of Breiter Hut & Mode. Due to the catastrophe of the 1st World War, the company inevitably stagnated, but shortly after the end of the war Adalbert Breiter expanded by leasing the business in 1918 Kaufingerstraße 23-26 in the heart of Munich near the Lieb-Frauen-Dom. In addition to exquisite ladies 'and men' s hats , the "hat maker at the cathedral" now also has gloves andTies , thus the assortment extended to many accessories . In March of 1930, another store was acquired on the Isartor , now known as "Breiterhof" . This was the first step towards a successful chain store.

    World War II did not leave its mark on the company Breiter in Munich either, because after the war in 1945 all the houses and businesses were in ruins. After the sons Max and Adalbert had returned safely from the war, the two now took over the company management and let the ruins gradually develop new businesses. As part of a change in the overall strategy, Breiter was subdivided into the competence areas of women's and men's divisions and the decision-making powers were accordingly tailored precisely.

    The re-emergence of an established Munich-based family business after the war is largely on the account of the two CEOs. From 1977, the new, young generation of the Breiter family joined the business in succession. In addition to Ursula Breiter-Graetz and her brother Max Breiter junior, Marion Breiter, Adalbert's daughter, and her husband Franz Stigloher-Breiter also fit perfectly into the company. In October 2014, Marion Breiter's son, Alexander Breiter, joined the company."

    https://www.hutbreiter.de/ueber-uns
     
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  13. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    Another great Hückel catch, Steve. Fantastic colour. Love the way it kind of twinkles under the lighting. The liner and sweat look in super condition, too.

    Cool envelope you posted earlier btw. I always look forward to seeing your ephemera finds.

    Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk
     
  14. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    Thanks for posting that and the link to the site, Steve. Very interesting.

    Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk
     
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  15. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    Steve, Thank you! The photos from the seller were poor so it was somewhat of a mystery. Luckily it turned out to be really nice. The felt reminded me of this early Tonak Plant Hückel "Lutra".

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    https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/124-tonak-formerly-hückel-plant-hückel/?do=findComment&comment=740
     
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  16. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    Nice looking Tonak Hückel Steve, but it doesn't beat the real deal. The "genuine" Hückel is just so much tighter and cleaner felt wise.

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  17. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    Steve, The Tonak Plant Hückel "Lutra" is unique felt / finish. At this time (late 1940s early 1950s) Tonak could still make excellent very dense Velour. Here you can see a comparison.

    On the right J. Hückel´s Söhne (JHS) Zephyr Seal Velour, size 7 3/8 (late 1930s) vs. on the left TONAK Formely Hückel Zephyr Seal Velour, size 7 3/8 (late 1940s early 1950s).

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    "The older JHS Zephyr Seal Velour (right side) felt color, finish and hand are at a slightly higher level (I think you can see the color and finish differences in the first photo). Same with the sweatband and liner. The TONAK Formely Hückel Zephyr Seal Velour is slightly lighter at 4.16 ounces vs. 4.40 ounces for the JHS Zephyr Seal Velour. Both have the same crown height (~ 6 inches) and brim width (~ 2.5 inches). They both have similar corrugated ventilation systems. The JHS Zephyr Seal Velour ribbon width is ~ 2 inches. The TONAK Formely Hückel Zephyr Seal Velour ribbon width is ~ 1.5 inches. Both hats were made for the American market."

    https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/135-j-h%C3%BCckel%C2%B4s-s%C3%B6hne-zephyr-seal-velour-late-1930s-vs-tonak-formely-h%C3%BCckel-zephyr-seal-velour-late-1940s-early-1950s/
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2019
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  18. steur

    steur

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    Cool to see them side by side. I would settle for the early Tonak every day of the week!
     
  19. steur

    steur

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    Thanks for this piece of history, Steve. Don't think I've read it before. I've come across an awful lot of their hats over the years.
     
  20. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    Stefan, Thanks! I did this comparison a while ago. Both hats were made for the American market so a rare situation. Also the early Tonak Plant Hückel "Lutra" was made for the American market. It has some felt issues (insects) but it's a really fantastic hat. It belonged to the owner of the early Tonak Formely Hückel "Zephyr Seal Velour". My guess is both hats purchased at the same time.
     
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