German & Austrian Hutmachers

Discussion in 'Hats' started by mayserwegener, Sep 1, 2008.

  1. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    J. Hückel´s Söhne "Lutra", 56 cm, possibly late 1930s. This is the 7th hat from my recent 9 hat find. This is my first JHS "Lutra" which means European Otter so possibly similar marketing to "Seal Velour". The Felt is really fantastic (color, finish, hand) and very pliable. It's a Trachten style Soft Felt which is also the case for my early Tonak Plant Hückel "Lutra". The Folkish Band is really interesting / unique. This hat was sold by Julius Reiter Eger / Cheb Czechoslovakia (prior to WWI Austria Hungary).

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    Open Crown

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  2. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    That 9 hat find just keeps on giving Steve. Great deep chocolaty colour and velvety look to the otter felt. The ribbon certainly is unique. Do you think it's original to the hat or a later addition?

     
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  3. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    Steve, Thank you! I believe the Hat Band is original. Here is a later Tonak Plant Hückel "Lutra" that is Trachten like.

    https://germanaustrianhats.invision...ckel-plant-hückel/?do=findComment&comment=740

    Here is Trachten style J.Hückel´s Söhne "Prima Velour."

    https://germanaustrianhats.invision...tfabrik-weilheim/?do=findComment&comment=1556
     
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  4. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    Thanks for sharing those images, Steve.

    The ribbon on your JHS "Lutra" is certainly unique and very eye catching.

     
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  5. steur

    steur

    Messages:
    13,565
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    Nederland
    Thanks, Matt. Always glad to find one of these.

    Thanks, Panos. Agreed!

    Thanks you, Steve. Always happy to find one of these. It needs some work, but we'll get it back to glory.
     
  6. steur

    steur

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    Very nice and a cool find! Remarkable hat.
     
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  7. steur

    steur

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    Nederland
    I've had one of these before, but it wasn't my size. I thought I might get lucky with this one. Nope. Again not my size.
    Huber Chamois in brown. Size 57 (and true to size, dammit) with the bound brim at 6,5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. It's missing its liner, which it must have had at one point judging by the thread that was still under the sweatband. Remarkable felt and fairly lightweight at 100 grams.

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  8. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    Location:
    Maryland
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    Stefan, Great find! The Chamois looks fantastic and I really the color combos plus form. I only have one Aurel Huber Soft Felt. They started to make their own felt after WWII and since they had no experience in felt production recruited expelled workers and management from JHS, Novy Jicin, Czechoslovakia.

    https://germanaustrianhats.invision...k-filz-hutfabrik/?do=findComment&comment=1941
     
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  9. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    Stefan, Thank you!
     
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  10. steur

    steur

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    13,565
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    Thanks, Steve. I do remember reading in that book they were a strawhat factory by origin and the felt came much later. Good call by them to hire the JHS workers: it shows!
     
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  11. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    I just posted this elsewhere so I thought I posted here too.

    German and Austrian Real Velour requires Wet Brushing and should be made from Hare Fur. Scratching takes place after Wet Brushing. Wet Brush -> Dry -> Scratch -> Wet Brush -> Wet Brush -> Scratch (prior to Brushing Machines the Brushing was done manually). I am not sure if anyone is doing Wet Brushing today as described below.

    From the last Director of S. & J. Fraenkel Wien, Ebreichsdorfer Felt Hat Factory Gustav Menschel's book "Der Hut". This is very rare information.

    Wet Brush Velour Production at close of S. & J. Fraenkel Wien, Ebreichsdorfer Felt Hat Factory (1972).

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    "When the tips are clipped off and the hair is ironed all around or from top to bottom one talks about “Soleil”."

    From "Hair Velour / Real (Echter) Velour / Prime (Prima) Velour Fabrikation von Damen- und Herren- Filzhüten, Der Deustchen Hutmacher Zeitung (1933)"

    1930s Real Velour Soleil

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  12. Raybuntu

    Raybuntu Familiar Face

    Messages:
    56
    Location:
    Germany
    Those velour hats look so amazing. I wish there was a custom hatter that still made those. For me it's it's hard to find these hats vintage in 7 5/8. The information is however very useful and hopefully some talented hatter will again revive this technique.

    So is it something that has to be done during the felting process or can this be done let's say on a hare body that is produced and sold today?
     
  13. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

    Messages:
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    Wet Brushing takes place during the Felting Process. I am not sure if this is done anymore. When I visited the Tonak factory I didn't see any Wet Brushing machines. It's possible they do it another way. I know that FEPSA Portugal sells unfinished Hare hoods but you would need to have the machines to produce the such finishes and they wouldn't be exactly the same as what is described above. I have had some conversations with Graham at Optimo Chicago and he is doing some Specialty Finishes in house but he has the machines. I am planning to visit to see what they are doing. Also you can purchase finished Velour Hoods and Capelines from Tonak, FEPSA and other sources. The above Soleil Velour Hat is from the 1930s or older so not going see Velour like that today.

    Automatic Wet Brushing for Velours (Center), S. & J. Fraenkel Wien Hat Factory / Ebreichsdorfer Felt Hat Factory (mid 1950s). Automat. Bürstmaschinen is Automactic Brushing Machines. (Click on Photo to Enlarge.)

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    Velour Auto-Brushing Machine used in Panizza Ghiffa Factory.

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    Last edited: Apr 6, 2021
  14. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

    Messages:
    15,639
    Location:
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    P. & C. Habig Wien "Grand Prix Paris", 57 cm, 110 grams, late 1890s - 1900. The Felt is very thin and light weight with a great smooth finish. The black liner with gold embossing is striking. The textured sweatband is also very light weight with the "Patent Ventilator" holes. There was a newspaper (from September 4, 1903) spacer behind the rear of the sweatband. I am thinking this was able made for the Paris 1900 World Exposition or was made the year after P. & C. Habig Wien winning the "Grand Prix" at the Paris 1900 World Exposition. The seller told me that the Melone belonged to a Banker in Greiz, Germany so that explains the use of the Berliner Börsen-Zeitung Financial Newspaper as spacer. I took some photos wearing it so the curved form will be more apparent. This is one of my best Stiff Felt finds.

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    Patent Ventilator

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    Paper Label with Handwritten Entries, Stitched in Liner

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    Newspaper Spacer, Berliner Börsen-Zeitung, Friday, the 4th. September 1903. (The seller told me that the Melone belonged to a Banker in Greiz, Germany so that explains the use of the Berliner Börsen-Zeitung Financial Newspaper as a spacer.)

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    P. & C. Habig Wien - Berlin Catalog, possibly mid 1890s to early 1900s.

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    Similar Stiff Felt Forms, Also P. & C. Habig Wien Crest with "Patent Ventilator"

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    Natural Light (Very Similar Hat to No. 16 above)

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    Last edited: Apr 10, 2021
  15. PanosChris

    PanosChris Practically Family

    Messages:
    621
    Phenomenal find, especially at this condition!! Also, a non-tiny size! Fantastic!
     
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  16. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    Panos, Thank you! It's easy to wear because very light weight.
     
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  17. Steve1857

    Steve1857 I'll Lock Up

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    Absolutely fantastic Steve. Everything about it is wonderful to behold. In such great condition, too. Congrats!

     
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  18. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

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    Steve, Thank you! I have been looking for a P. & C. Habig Wien Stiff Felt from this era for a long while and this one exceeded expectations.
     
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  19. mayserwegener

    mayserwegener

    Messages:
    15,639
    Location:
    Maryland
    Anton Peschel Neutitschein, measures 57 cm possibly late 1930s early 1940s. There is no mention of APN but it's very similar in construction to the Anton Peschel Neutitschein, Peschel "Kristall" from the same find. The darker Brown Close Cropped Velour is really fantastic easily dry creases and is in very good condition.

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  20. PanosChris

    PanosChris Practically Family

    Messages:
    621
    Steve, that is really fantastic! We don't see brown velours all that often, especially of this quality and period.
     

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