German & Austrian Hutmachers

[PanosChris]

Panos, Fantastic! This is a real beauty and in NOS condition. My guess is mid to later 1930s. Also the paper label size is probably 55 cm.

Steve, thank you again, it couldn't happen without your kind help.

 

[PanosChris]

Wow - wow - and again: WOW! Everything about that one is just beautiful!

That's a magnificent hat, Panos. I don't think I would have gone for a size 54 myself, but fortune favors the brave. Congrats. Don't see these Brüder Böhm hats often.

Gentlemen thank you! It makes me very happy seeing the appreciation for old European wool hats

 

[PanosChris]

Yesterday I picked up my vaccination and made a little trip:
"Richard Mühe" in Grimma (Saxony): "Military Accessories- Glove- Hat- & Cap-Shop".
Unfortunately I haven't found anything about it yet but the store is certainly late 1800s
- and apparently (unfortunately closed) much of the original furnishings are still there.

Another hat Panos discovered and I "secured" for him:
Black "Colonia" (= Köln City) made of a lovely wool felt with back bow
The size is a 54 (hope it fits you, Panos); brim 6.0 cm, crown 10.0 cm (dent)
Certainly pre-war - I guess mid/late 30s - but that's just a guess, so please comment.
On the brand I have found nothing so far exept:
The paper label (the only one) is the same as on a J.A.Seidl on Steve's site...
https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/244-hutfabrik-j-a-seidl-münchen/

Matt, thank you! It looks fantastic!
Great outfit too!

 

[PanosChris]

Steve, I had a second look into my J. A. Seidl Bowler: no such label.
But it is a stiff fur felt and no woolie, so as you say: probably another source.
With my Bowler, the suspicion arose that it might be from Mayser Ulm...
Remember that one?

Only paper labels inside

I found this Wool Stiff Felt back in 2014 but never took photos of the paper label. Turns out it has the same type on Non Mark Paper Label type (also the small Numeric Orange Paper Label type) we come across so often with German Wool Soft and Stiff Felts from the 1930s and older. Carl Zeumer Magazin Zum PFAU was a well known supplier so my guess is they sourced directly from the factory.

https://germanaustrianhats.invision...-magazin-zum-pfau/?do=findComment&comment=994

Oh wow, super melones!

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Matt, I remember this one. I forgot to post it on my website which I will do now. It does have the small Numeric Paper Labels (inspection Marks?) but they are somewhat common among German and Austrian Hat Companies. As I mentioned I am not aware of Hutfabrik J. A. Seidl München having production post Mayser Ulm so as you mentioned probably sourced. Looking at it now it's probably some other source other than Mayser Ulm. The non branded Mayser Ulm Stiff Felts that I have seen have Mayser Ulm like Paper Labels, are Fur Felt and have similar components (Sweatband, Liner, Band, Binding) + construction. Without a company mark or any physical evidence it's a mystery Stiff Felt. The large German Hat companies, for example in Guben, could produce both Wool and Fur Felt Stiff and Soft Felts Hats and Stumps. See the major pre WWII Hat Companies down your way.

Steve - thanks as always for your assessment! I agree with you when you say
that without a label or something, it's just difficult. But I will - as always - keep
my eyes and ears open and maybe we will get lucky and chance will help us
- like with the paper label of the Colonia. And if not - it's still a great hat.

 

[mayserwegener]

Steve - thanks as always for your assessment! I agree with you when you say
that without a label or something, it's just difficult. But I will - as always - keep
my eyes and ears open and maybe we will get lucky and chance will help us
- like with the paper label of the Colonia. And if not - it's still a great hat.

Matt, Yes there is a chance a similar made / same time period J. A. Seidl München will be found that has a paper label with a company mark.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Fingers crossed, Steve.
Not only because of the origin of my bowler, but also because of all of us:
These hats are of high quality - both wool and fur felt.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

As an addition or rather an illustration for the J. A. Seidl - discussion:
according to the seller it should be from (about) 1925...

 

[mayserwegener]

As an addition or rather an illustration for the J. A. Seidl - discussion:
according to the seller it should be from (about) 1925...

Matt, Super! Anton Seidl owner of J. A. Seidl Hutfabrik saved Mayser Ulm in 1914 and became sole owner in 1918. I don't believe I was ever able to find what happened to J. A. Seidl Hutfabrik. I know they had retail outlets in München but not sure when they stopped producing hats. My guess would be around the time Anton Seidl saved and then purchased Masyer Ulm.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

This Oberländer was an eBay find that I owe to a tip from @PanosChris
Great thin dense felt that easily takes a dry crease. 5 1/2” open crown and a bound brim that is just over 2 5/8” wide. The clear plastic liner protector and sewn-in liner makes me think 1950s?

I’ll let Steve @mayserwegener tell me what I actually have.

it was sold as a size 61cm and I’d say it fits true to size.

 

[steur]

As an addition or rather an illustration for the J. A. Seidl - discussion:
according to the seller it should be from (about) 1925...

There's one on sale on Ebay Germany right now:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/234022614546

Not listed as a Seidl, but hard to miss if you look at the pics.

 

[steur]

This Oberländer was an eBay find that I owe to a tip from @PanosChris
Great thin dense felt that easily takes a dry crease. 5 1/2” open crown and a bound brim that is just over 2 5/8” wide. The clear plastic liner protector and sewn-in liner makes me think 1950s?

I’ll let Steve @mayserwegener tell me what I actually have.

View attachment 338182 View attachment 338183 View attachment 338184 View attachment 338185 View attachment 338186 View attachment 338187 View attachment 338188 View attachment 338189

it was sold as a size 61cm and I’d say it fits true to size.

A fantastic hat, that's what you have, Brent. I had one which is now residing in Elsinore. Top quality work. They were made by Rehfus Hutfabrik up until 1963, when Rehfus closed its doors. The Rehfus name can be seen just above the Oberländer brand.
The Julius Dancker Hutfabrik on the liner is a bit odd though, but maybe they were the wholeseller.

 

[steur]

A new one. Chisnall, sold to me as a size 62, but I already knew that would be its size. Turned out to be a size 58 (most here guessed it would be a 59). So, Chisnall Elite homburg, with the brim at 5,6cm and the crown at 10,5 cm at the center dent. Likely made by Wegener through wholesellers W&G Schuchart, whose label is inside the hat.

The shape, felt, finishing all point towards an early sixties hat. I'd say 1963, but late 1963.

 

[Centaurus3200]

Got this hat for free at the end of the port costa town wide garage sale.

The velour fur is SO SOFT! I could pet it all day. Lol!

Liner is long gone. What is it? Like a 1970s Rockel house brand or something? I'll try to shape the feather and take it out for a spin.

 

[the_imperialist]

Great seeing all of your latest finds - I'm practically green with envy!
A recent purchase (seller's photos) of a soft-felt Bruder Bohm. I also recieved two pre-war Huckels that I need to get around to photographing - one a tagged 56 which luckily fits my 57 size head, the other sadly, a 54.

 

[steur]

Great seeing all of your latest finds - I'm practically green with envy!
A recent purchase (seller's photos) of a soft-felt Bruder Bohm. I also recieved two pre-war Huckels that I need to get around to photographing - one a tagged 56 which luckily fits my 57 size head, the other sadly, a 54.

Glad you got that one, Wayne. I had it on my watchlist, but because it was listed as a 58 I didn't bid.

 

[mayserwegener]

Great seeing all of your latest finds - I'm practically green with envy!
A recent purchase (seller's photos) of a soft-felt Bruder Bohm. I also recieved two pre-war Huckels that I need to get around to photographing - one a tagged 56 which luckily fits my 57 size head, the other sadly, a 54.

Wayne, Also great to see you picked up this BB Velour. Stefan had tipped me on it but I didn't follow through (mostly due to measurement concerns). I look forward to seeing your latest JHS Velour finds.

 

[mayserwegener]

This Oberländer was an eBay find that I owe to a tip from @PanosChris
Great thin dense felt that easily takes a dry crease. 5 1/2” open crown and a bound brim that is just over 2 5/8” wide. The clear plastic liner protector and sewn-in liner makes me think 1950s?

I’ll let Steve @mayserwegener tell me what I actually have.

View attachment 338182 View attachment 338183 View attachment 338184 View attachment 338185 View attachment 338186 View attachment 338187 View attachment 338188 View attachment 338189

it was sold as a size 61cm and I’d say it fits true to size.

Brent, Super! As Stefan said this was made by Rehfus & Cie. . You can read more about Rehfus & Cie. and Carl Johann Rehfus-Oberlander here.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/20-rehfus-cie-hutfabrikanten/

Carl Johann Rehfus-Oberlander (1855-1926), head of the Kehler hat factory, was an avid hunter and writer.

 

[mayserwegener]

A new one. Chisnall, sold to me as a size 62, but I already knew that would be its size. Turned out to be a size 58 (most here guessed it would be a 59). So, Chisnall Elite homburg, with the brim at 5,6cm and the crown at 10,5 cm at the center dent. Likely made by Wegener through wholesellers W&G Schuchart, whose label is inside the hat.
View attachment 338253 View attachment 338254 View attachment 338255 View attachment 338256 View attachment 338257 View attachment 338258 View attachment 338259 View attachment 338260 View attachment 338261

The shape, felt, finishing all point towards an early sixties hat. I'd say 1963, but late 1963.
View attachment 338262

Stefan, Great looking early 1960s Homburg! I think too probably Wegener (possibly Rockel) because of the size tag and looks well made.

 

[mayserwegener]

Got this hat for free at the end of the port costa town wide garage sale.

The velour fur is SO SOFT! I could pet it all day. Lol!

Liner is long gone. What is it? Like a 1970s Rockel house brand or something? I'll try to shape the feather and take it out for a spin.
View attachment 338306 View attachment 338307

Does it have Rockel on the sweatband? If so Rockel was a hat company / manufacturer that lasted into the later 1990s. Read can read more here.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/17-rockel-hutfabrik/