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Get out the goats!

Nalazo

Familiar Face
Messages
70
I know that gussets have already been discussed at length here on the Lounge but most guys here seem to favor the heavier, stiffer horse or cow hides. I’m wondering about gussets specifically in relation to the lighter, suppler goat leather. I’m currently considering a custom Aero Sheen in goat and have been planning on both shoulder and underarm gussets for maximum range of motion/comfort. I’m wondering, however, if they may not be quite as necessary in the lighter goat as they might be in the heavier hides. Thoughts?
 

jglf

A-List Customer
Messages
376
Location
USA
I know that gussets have already been discussed at length here on the Lounge but most guys here seem to favor the heavier, stiffer horse or cow hides. I’m wondering about gussets specifically in relation to the lighter, suppler goat leather. I’m currently considering a custom Aero Sheen in goat and have been planning on both shoulder and underarm gussets for maximum range of motion/comfort. I’m wondering, however, if they may not be quite as necessary in the lighter goat as they might be in the heavier hides. Thoughts?
It all depends on how much range of motion you want. The armpit gussets allow you to raise your arms without the whole jacket lifting up and the bi-swing helps a lot when reaching forward.

It’s also important to factor in the jacket size and pattern as that also contributes to the comfort/range of motion of the jacket. But yes, gussets will still help a lot with goat.
 

Aloysius

One Too Many
Messages
1,516
I know that gussets have already been discussed at length here on the Lounge but most guys here seem to favor the heavier, stiffer horse or cow hides. I’m wondering about gussets specifically in relation to the lighter, suppler goat leather. I’m currently considering a custom Aero Sheen in goat and have been planning on both shoulder and underarm gussets for maximum range of motion/comfort. I’m wondering, however, if they may not be quite as necessary in the lighter goat as they might be in the heavier hides. Thoughts?

There are people here who are obsessed with "clean backs"; I would pay them no attention.

The US Navy's flight jackets, which have a full action back and underarm gussets, have almost always been made out of goat–and this gives amazing range of movement. The 70 year old one I got is at least a size too small for me but still fits perfectly because of them.
 

MrProper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,010
Location
Europe
I know that gussets have already been discussed at length here on the Lounge but most guys here seem to favor the heavier, stiffer horse or cow hides. I’m wondering about gussets specifically in relation to the lighter, suppler goat leather. I’m currently considering a custom Aero Sheen in goat and have been planning on both shoulder and underarm gussets for maximum range of motion/comfort. I’m wondering, however, if they may not be quite as necessary in the lighter goat as they might be in the heavier hides. Thoughts?
Whether the gussets are effective or not depends somewhat on the depth of the fold.
I don't find the short ones so effective that I would give up the clean back ;) for them. I don't like the full action back. What really works great for me are the underarm gussets.
 

Liveinstyle33

One of the Regulars
Messages
101
Glad to hear of the water repelling properties of the goat. Thanks!
I know that gussets have already been discussed at length here on the Lounge but most guys here seem to favor the heavier, stiffer horse or cow hides. I’m wondering about gussets specifically in relation to the lighter, suppler goat leather. I’m currently considering a custom Aero Sheen in goat and have been planning on both shoulder and underarm gussets for maximum range of motion/comfort. I’m wondering, however, if they may not be quite as necessary in the lighter goat as they might be in the heavier hides. Thoughts?
I can't say if gussets will be better or not for your purposes but I do know that goat stretches as well as being more supple than horse or cowhide. Goat is most likely the leather that least requires gussets assuming the jacket is properly fitted. Here is a little bit about goat compared to horse from this maker.
https://www.avileather.com/horsehide-goatskin-leather-jackets/

My next jacket will be in goat, I'm also eying this leather.
 

nick123

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,361
Location
California
Good Wear AN-6552. Crazy nice goat.
855DF974-5D43-4525-ACEE-FC7471CBFF7E.jpeg

B53669AD-45E3-4BDF-BE9A-65EF656A4AA7.jpeg
 

Nalazo

Familiar Face
Messages
70
It all depends on how much range of motion you want. The armpit gussets allow you to raise your arms without the whole jacket lifting up and the bi-swing helps a lot when reaching forward.

It’s also important to factor in the jacket size and pattern as that also contributes to the comfort/range of motion of the jacket. But yes, gussets will still help a lot with goat.
Exactly. I’m hoping that the underarm and shoulder gussets will work in harmony with each other.


There are people here who are obsessed with "clean backs"; I would pay them no attention.

The US Navy's flight jackets, which have a full action back and underarm gussets, have almost always been made out of goat–and this gives amazing range of movement. The 70 year old one I got is at least a size too small for me but still fits perfectly because of them.
I wouldn’t count myself in the “clean backs”club though I’d be reluctant to put a full action back on the Sheen since it’d be such a deviation from the style. I’m hoping the shoulder/underarm gusset combination will be more subtle yet still effective.

Whether the gussets are effective or not depends somewhat on the depth of the fold.
I don't find the short ones so effective that I would give up the clean back ;) for them. I don't like the full action back. What really works great for me are the underarm gussets.
Do the underarm gussets help at all with reaching forward or just with lifting your arms vertically?
I can't say if gussets will be better or not for your purposes but I do know that goat stretches as well as being more supple than horse or cowhide. Goat is most likely the leather that least requires gussets assuming the jacket is properly fitted. Here is a little bit about goat compared to horse from this maker.
https://www.avileather.com/horsehide-goatskin-leather-jackets/

My next jacket will be in goat, I'm also eying this leather
Right. Part of me wonders if goat gussets are overkill though I guess the military didn’t think so. Thanks for the info link. Interesting that they describe horse as stronger than goat while Aero’s site describes goat as tougher than horse when the same thickness.
 

Aloysius

One Too Many
Messages
1,516
I wouldn’t count myself in the “clean backs”club though I’d be reluctant to put a full action back on the Sheen since it’d be such a deviation from the style. I’m hoping the shoulder/underarm gusset combination will be more subtle yet still effective.

It will be pretty effective. Aero’s bi-swing shoulders aren’t as functional as Schott’s but they’re not useless. I definitely see mine functioning in the mirror if I turn perpendicular to it. Between those, the bi-swing, and the underarm gussets you should be good to go.
 

MrProper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,010
Location
Europe
Do the underarm gussets help at all with reaching forward or just with lifting your arms vertically?
Good question. Logically, they should only help the upward movement. I have only two jackets with underarm gussets, but with both I can also stretch forward without problems. And that, although the jackets are rather tight. I assume that this is also due to the high armholes.
However, I also have only two jackets with shoulder gussets (also rather narrow). Even if a slight effect is noticeable here, I personally find it not so serious.

Underarm gussets:
1667301429431.jpeg


1667301512999.jpeg
 

Nalazo

Familiar Face
Messages
70
I remember reading on here somewhere that some bi-swing backs have elastic in them. Do Aero's shoulder gussets have any elastic or just extra leather folds?
 

MrProper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,010
Location
Europe
I remember reading on here somewhere that some bi-swing backs have elastic in them. Do Aero's shoulder gussets have any elastic or just extra leather folds?
Shoulder gussets have elastic bands between the lining and the jacket. Otherwise, the folds would not return to their original shape.
 

zebedee

One Too Many
Messages
1,609
Location
Shanghai
I definitely prefer no gussets in jackets: they look ok, but they seem (to me) to be a repair waiting to happen. On the other hand, I haven't had any noticeable mobility problems in my jackets.
 

Nalazo

Familiar Face
Messages
70
I definitely prefer no gussets in jackets: they look ok, but they seem (to me) to be a repair waiting to happen. On the other hand, I haven't had any noticeable mobility problems in my jackets.
Yea I agree. I don’t really like the idea of having elastic in the jacket. Might just go with underarm gussets after all. Combined with the easy wearing goat, I’m thinking it will still be fine...
 

Aloysius

One Too Many
Messages
1,516
Yea I agree. I don’t really like the idea of having elastic in the jacket. Might just go with underarm gussets after all. Combined with the easy wearing goat, I’m thinking it will still be fine...

You guys are far over thinking the damage potential of elastic… By the time the elastic gets less resistant, your lining will probably be worn down.
 

MrProper

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,010
Location
Europe
Yea I agree. I don’t really like the idea of having elastic in the jacket. Might just go with underarm gussets after all. Combined with the easy wearing goat, I’m thinking it will still be fine...
What do you need the perfect range of motion for? A sports jacket would probably be more sensible.
In this respect, I would say that if you like the look of gussets, take them. If not, don't.
Does Aero offer underarm gussets at all?
 

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