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Messages
18,946
Location
Central California
Anyone else here been watching the ASM Singer 107-1 clones showing up on ebay at very low opening bid no reserve auctions only to disappear a day or two later? No idea what’s going on there.
 

humanshoes

One Too Many
Messages
1,428
Location
Tennessee
Anyone else here been watching the ASM Singer 107-1 clones showing up on ebay at very low opening bid no reserve auctions only to disappear a day or two later? No idea what’s going on there.
Here's the rub:
"This item can be purchased at the buy it now price only. No bidding allowed. Please do not bid. All bids will be removed."
Very confusing listing, but not a bad price for the machine. Less than I paid for mine, however, one will still need to spend about $700 for the guide attachment and the adjustable presser foot from TAC.
 
Last edited:

ChicagoWayVito

Practically Family
Messages
699
Here's the rub:
"This item can be purchased at the buy it now price only. No bidding allowed. Please do not bid. All bids will be removed."
Very confusing listing, but not a bad price for the machine. Less than I paid for mine, however, one will still need to spend about $700 for the guide attachment and the adjustable presser foot from TAC.
It is a confusing listing. That disclaimer should have been in the description. $2000 is still expensive for what appears to be just the head. You dont get the right presser foot, guage, table, or motor. For $2,400 I received all the above except the presser foot which cost me another $200.
 
Messages
10,403
Location
vancouver, canada
It is a confusing listing. That disclaimer should have been in the description. $2000 is still expensive for what appears to be just the head. You dont get the right presser foot, guage, table, or motor. For $2,400 I received all the above except the presser foot which cost me another $200.
For that serious amount of cash I will continue to hand sew the sweats.
 

humanshoes

One Too Many
Messages
1,428
Location
Tennessee
It is a confusing listing. That disclaimer should have been in the description. $2000 is still expensive for what appears to be just the head. You dont get the right presser foot, guage, table, or motor. For $2,400 I received all the above except the presser foot which cost me another $200.
You got a great deal on yours CWV. Especially if it came with the guide attachment. When I spoke to Mike at Buckaroo some years ago, he informed me that the cost had been going up about $500 per year and that ASM no longer manufactures the machine. JW Hats originally quoted me $2k for just the head, then, AFTER I placed the order, they called back and said they'd made a mistake and couldn't sell it to me at that "low" price. It seems there'll come a time when they won't be available anywhere in the retail marketplace and if I wanted or needed one, I wouldn't wait.
 

Gobi

One of the Regulars
Messages
169
I finally got my block from Poland. Really nice work.
I began blocking one of my Sunrise nutria body blanks. I'm having trouble getting the full 6" that I would like. I was grabbing the brim and yanking it down, using my body weight to push downwards as hard as I could and rotating the hat as I went. I have a strong grip in my hands and I maxed that out. I pulled/pushed until I couldnt grip the brim any longer. Would it be beneficial to let it dry on the block and the. Do the process again to try and gain a little more height?
 
Messages
10,403
Location
vancouver, canada
I finally got my block from Poland. Really nice work.
I began blocking one of my Sunrise nutria body blanks. I'm having trouble getting the full 6" that I would like. I was grabbing the brim and yanking it down, using my body weight to push downwards as hard as I could and rotating the hat as I went. I have a strong grip in my hands and I maxed that out. I pulled/pushed until I couldnt grip the brim any longer. Would it be beneficial to let it dry on the block and the. Do the process again to try and gain a little more height?
I blocked a very stiff, thick felt for Brent. He wanted the full 6" which means stealing some from the brim. I spent over an hour attempting to get the blocking cord past the crown and over some of the brim to get the 6". Could not get it as the cord would release some when that much pressure was applied. I gave up. But ordered a blocking spring from Guy Morse Brown in the UK. I will snap pics and post tomorrow. They arrived today and it took me 10 minutes to get it done. They are about $20 and work like a hot damn. I now have one for each block size. I have blocks from 3 suppliers and Jerzy's blocks are by far the best.
 
Messages
18,946
Location
Central California
I finally got my block from Poland. Really nice work.
I began blocking one of my Sunrise nutria body blanks. I'm having trouble getting the full 6" that I would like. I was grabbing the brim and yanking it down, using my body weight to push downwards as hard as I could and rotating the hat as I went. I have a strong grip in my hands and I maxed that out. I pulled/pushed until I couldnt grip the brim any longer. Would it be beneficial to let it dry on the block and the. Do the process again to try and gain a little more height?


Are you using a puller-downer?
 

Gobi

One of the Regulars
Messages
169
Are you using a puller-downer?
Yes and no. It only does so much good and then the block tends to just want to tip over. It's easier grip on opposite sides of the brim.
I'm elevating the block by setting it on a pot so I can have some room to pull down. If I only pull down on one side, the block tips.
 

ChicagoWayVito

Practically Family
Messages
699
Yes and no. It only does so much good and then the block tends to just want to tip over. It's easier grip on opposite sides of the brim.
I'm elevating the block by setting it on a pot so I can have some room to pull down. If I only pull down on one side, the block tips.

What is your source of steam?

I suppose you are dry blocking the hat too. I have had success with wet blocking, you might give that a try. The idea is to soak the hat body in hot water for an hour or so and then block it. I wrap my block with plastic wrap first. Then once blocked, I let it dry for 2 weeks. It will likely introduce a bunch of waves into the brim, but this too can be handled. I have used a flat flange made from craft wood (Lowe's hardware) and then soaked the brim and steamed it then stretched the brim and pinned it to the wood, let dry another 2 weeks. Takes a lot of pins, about 1 every inch.

What are the dimensions your are going for? 6 inch crown adn what is the finished brim width you want?
 
Messages
18,946
Location
Central California
Yes and no. It only does so much good and then the block tends to just want to tip over. It's easier grip on opposite sides of the brim.
I'm elevating the block by setting it on a pot so I can have some room to pull down. If I only pull down on one side, the block tips.


Well, I’ve ripped the brim off an old western trying to get it as far down onto a block as I wanted. If you can, it might be best to size it up in stages rather than the brute force method.
 
Messages
10,403
Location
vancouver, canada
What is your source of steam?

I suppose you are dry blocking the hat too. I have had success with wet blocking, you might give that a try. The idea is to soak the hat body in hot water for an hour or so and then block it. I wrap my block with plastic wrap first. Then once blocked, I let it dry for 2 weeks. It will likely introduce a bunch of waves into the brim, but this too can be handled. I have used a flat flange made from craft wood (Lowe's hardware) and then soaked the brim and steamed it then stretched the brim and pinned it to the wood, let dry another 2 weeks. Takes a lot of pins, about 1 every inch.

What are the dimensions your are going for? 6 inch crown adn what is the finished brim width you want?
I have purchased 2' x 2' plywood, cut out ovals to match 4 sizes of my blocks. ( I can use one size for two blocks sizes with no ill effect) I place the cutout plywood over the still blocked felt which is placed on another 2'x2' plywood and then clamp them together after giving the brim a thorough steaming and steam ironing (with wetted terry cloth cover). I let this sit for 48 hours or so and the brim comes out flat and true. I call these my "flat brim flanges" . I have them in various thickness of plywood and use the appropriate size (3/8", 1/2", & 5/8"depending on how much of the block height I have used. I thne trim the brim when completely dry.
 

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