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Hats and civility

Slate Shannon

One of the Regulars
Messages
105
Location
Nearer to here than to there
The Spectator (UK), 10 December 2005 (edited for length)

Use your head
Theodore Dalrymple

Why do men behave so badly nowadays?

The explanation came to me a few months ago in a blinding flash of illumination: the hat. To the hat, or rather to the lack of one, is to be traced the source of all our ill-deportment. Bare heads, or heads accoutred in the wrong kind of headgear, cause our want of self-respect, and therefore our want of respect for others. What we need, therefore, is more hats: proper ones, from cloth caps to trilbies, homburgs, bowlers and toppers.

Reflecting on hats, it suddenly occurred to me how much more difficult it was to behave badly in a proper hat, and how much easier to be polite in one. I recalled the days of my childhood during which most men wore a hat, and I remembered that my father never failed, in a gesture of genuine politeness, to raise his hat to someone whom he knew. Indeed, the etiquette of hats was drummed into me as a child as being a stage in the taming of the natural savage.

Mr. Johnson (hat shop owner), too, remembered the age of hats, a gentler age than our own, when men would remove them to acknowledge a passing hearse. A hat, like a cane, gives dignity to a man?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s bearing, but at the same time affords him the opportunity to practise a little ceremonial. This ceremonial is by definition the recognition of the right of others to due consideration.

The wrong kind of headgear, however, conveys another message entirely. A baseball cap is almost incompatible with an impression of dignity or intelligence, and those whose peaks are pulled over the eyes intimidate, as they are no doubt intended to intimidate. The same is true of the hoods that young men pull over their heads, and the woollen beanies that cling to their shaven scalps. No ceremonial or recognition of others is possible with this kind of headgear.

Irrespective of the meaning of proper hats in times gone by, we always live in our own social and cultural context, and the fact is that certain kinds of hats do convey civility and others convey incivility. If you doubt it, conduct a little thought experiment. You are walking down a dark street at night, and a man approaches you wearing a proper hat. Do you fear him as much as you would a man who is wearing a hood or a baseball cap that covers his brow and eyes?

It would be a most interesting study to establish whether an aggressive, hood-wearing young man became less aggressive once shorn of his hood. I suspect that he would.

It might, of course, be that nice men wear hats and nasty men wear hoods. Men wear what is appropriate to their character, and according to the message they wish to convey. The staff of Mr. Johnson?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s shop told me that purchasers of men?¢‚Ǩ‚Ñ¢s hats are invariably polite and charming, which is why they want a hat in the first place.

That civil men should wear hats is much less interesting, of course, than if the wearing of hats should make men civil, for this would suggest that the encouragement of hat-wearing might lead to improved levels of public civility.
 

Raindog

One of the Regulars
"You are walking down a dark street at night, and a man approaches you wearing a proper hat. Do you fear him as much as you would a man who is wearing a hood or a baseball cap that covers his brow and eyes?"

That would depend on whether he was carrying a violin case or not:)

Interesting article. It could be partly to do with the cost of a good hat too. If I've spent ?Ǭ£100 on a hat there's no way I'm going to be getting in trouble wearing it. A baseball cap? Who cares if you get it knocked off in a fight? Just shove it in the washing machine.....
Pity it's hard to get kids wearing good head gear. We need a film to come out with a really cool character (rapper anyone?) to make kids see the light....
What I really despair of is seeing old men wearing baseball caps and tracksuits....An abomination!
Maybe something's changing though, as I saw a young man in a black fedora on the beach the other day, and he had a black tracksuit with the white stripes down the arms and legs!! Not exactly matching, but the fedora STILL looked classy on him. The power of the fedora to change a badly dressed person into a stylish, snazzy dude is unprecedented!


Jeff.
 

Legal Concepts

One of the Regulars
Messages
101
Location
Southeastern Illinois, USA
The ascendance of hip-hop culture in the '80s can be seen, in hindsight, as the single biggest contributor to the rise of the baseball hat. Though some early rappers wore Kangols or bucket hats, the baseball hat was the headgear of choice among hip-hop's pioneers and those who identified with their culture. Spike Lee, for example, has not been seen in public without a baseball hat since about 1986.

More significantly, rap didn't just boost interest in baseball hats, it infused these hats with meaning. Suddenly the hats weren't just hats, they were signifiers -- an easy shorthand by which you could identify like-minded people. As Monica Lynch, president of the hip-hop label Tommy Boy, said in 1992, "Baseball hats are to hip-hop what Chanel is to couture. They immediately identify who you're down with."

Rappers, for example, wore baseball hats as a way of declaring a geographical affinity. When Mike D of the Beastie Boys donned a New York Mets hat, it wasn't to declare his love for the team but for his hometown. Such identification was important to rappers' personae -- witness the fabled East Coast-versus-West Coast rivalry.

Also, like many early hip-hop styles, the wearing of sports insignias -- on hats, jerseys and jackets -- was borrowed from, and influenced by, gang culture. Urban gangs often identified themselves by their colours, and an easy way to outfit yourself in a single colour was to stick to the uniform of a single sports team. (It didn't hurt that baseball hats also referenced an arena -- that of pro sports -- that was dominated by African-Americans.) So the Greenwood Street gang in Boston, for example, outfitted themselves in Green Bay Packers garb, while a rival gang wore only Cincinnati Reds clothes.

These two influences -- an affinity with sports culture and affinity with gang culture -- collided when the L.A.-based gangsta-rap pioneers N.W.A. appeared in 1988. The members of the group sported all-black outfits, modeled on prison wear, and the black-and-silver hats of the L.A. Raiders -- chosen partly because they were a way of proclaiming the group's L.A. roots, and partly because the Raiders had a reputation as an outlaw team, given to dirty on-field tactics.

Soon, ball caps became a totem for disillusioned black kids and the white kids who emulated them. All of a sudden, a kid in any city or suburb on the continent could show up for class wearing a seemingly innocuous L.A. Raiders hat -- which, for those who recognized it, meant that you associated yourself with hip-hop's subversive attitude. And unlike other sportswear, hats were cheap, so kids could collect several and swap old ones for the newest popular style. Don a new hat, adopt a new persona -- what could be easier? (Not surprisingly, once the grown-ups got wise to the hidden meanings, they banned baseball hats from many American schools.)

Wow. The other day I seen some old black dude wearing a shinney black Kangol.:rolleyes: and I seen a few old white dudes with newsboys on.
 

vespasian

One of the Regulars
Messages
175
Location
Kent, UK
I agree quite strongly with the comment from the newspaper. Here in the UK we have a strong youth culture based on the "hoodie" the hooded top. The culture carries badges of achievement such as anti social behaviour orders and nuisance youth crimes such as criminal damage, assault and the like. The hoodie is as associated with crime as the skinhead or the greasers of the 70's and 80's. Odd that the others also refer to headgear or state of hair.

I find it increasingly laughable that if I walked down the road in summer with a woollen hat on my head no-one would care, but if I don a fedora some people give it a second glance. There seems to be an odd state of mind with reference to men and fashion here in the UK. A woman could walk down the street with a dead chicken hanging from one ear and a cherry trifle perched on her head and everyone might think she looked stupid but no-one would say so. If a man wears something only slightly outside the norm it seems to draw comment. Are we seeing the demise not only of the hat but of male fashion rights entirely?
 

16_sparrows

Vendor
Messages
197
Location
Chicago
First of all, vespasian's remark of a woman parading about with a "cherry trifle perched on her head" gives me a wonderful image in my head.

I think this is a very interesting thread and I am curious as to the letters the author of the article will receive. The point Raindog made of the price of the hat is a very good observation. The price tag of proper hats can also attribute to the class of the person, which some would link class with a more polite manner.
 

Raindog

One of the Regulars
I hadn't thought about the class thing before 16_sparrows....Cor! People might be thinking I'm classy! And me a common as muck labourer!
The 'Fedora affect' we'll have to call it. I saw a tracksuited young man the other day wearing a black fedora, and even he looked good. I wouldn't mistake him for a lord but maybe a young Prince having a day out....


Jeff.
 

vespasian

One of the Regulars
Messages
175
Location
Kent, UK
16sparrows, Id really love to hear your side on this one. Whats your take on the whole male fashion headwear thing. Do you notice a difference in the way youre treated depending upon the headgear?
 

BellyTank

I'll Lock Up
The comment about 'HopHop culture' goes also for the eventual downfall of 'shops' in the UK selling stylish, older-era clothing. It was a very sad day indeed when 'Johnsons Modern Outfitters', on the King's Road closed down due to lack of interest. There is a continued interest in the Kustom Kulture gear but that's still a bit throw-away...

B
T
 

16_sparrows

Vendor
Messages
197
Location
Chicago
vespasian said:
16sparrows, Id really love to hear your side on this one. Whats your take on the whole male fashion headwear thing. Do you notice a difference in the way youre treated depending upon the headgear?

I cannot say that I am able to divide men of having or not having manners simply by what is or is not on top of their head. Surely I have had bad experiences with "jocks," which is who I commonly see with baseball caps, but I also know some congenial men who also don a baseball cap. I have never heard of this hooded style that the article refers to, so I can't comment on that. I think that it comes back to the price of a proper hat as well as the first impression a man wearing such a hat makes.

In terms of first impressions to a man wearing a fedora, I would think that he is more of a gentleman than a bare headed or baseball capped man. The style of hat reminds me of a time where everything seemed a lot nicer, so I would see the man reflecting that nature. If I think the man is a gentleman, I will off the bat treat him a little bit sweeter and in general be kinder to him. Normally, you treat a person as they treat you, so the man plays upon my kindness and reciprocates the good manners. So possibly it is a reflection of first impression rather than the breeding of the man under the hat.

As for the cost of such hats. One who can afford a fedora is someone who, stereotypically has more money which we, as a culture translate as having good breeding.
 

Raindog

One of the Regulars
How easily people are misled 16_sparrows! Here's me not able to afford a car or a new jacket or shoes, but on my head is a fedora, so I become rich and classy. I love it :)
I guess first impressions are everything in this world. Saddam Hussein wore a fedora, and he conned us for years into thinking he was a gentleman.
Hoodies are sweatshirts with hoods on, which youths wear. A tiny minority of youth wear them to hide their faces while committing crime.


Jeff.
 

vespasian

One of the Regulars
Messages
175
Location
Kent, UK
Its a sweeping generalisation I make that hoodies are attached to a criminal element. However, they began as fashionable and moved into the criminal arena being associated with the nuisance youth badge of culture for many of todays youths in the UK. Akin to the skinhead look, or the MOD of the 70's and early 80's. The majority of hoody wearers are just regular kids but the fashion is intended to reflect the "I dont care about convention" look. I suppose in a way we wear fedoras to do the same thing, but as a kind of contrast to todays couldnt care less and damn convention youth culture. Thats my take on it.
 

Raindog

One of the Regulars
I still consider myself a rebel underneath this hat (I listen to loud hardcore music and read William Burroughs for pleasure for instance) but I don't commit crime and I treat people with respect. A lot of todays young people have no respect for anything or anyone, which is sad because by treating others right their lives would improve massively, but obviously they won't listen to an old codger like me :cool:


Jeff.
 

Legal Concepts

One of the Regulars
Messages
101
Location
Southeastern Illinois, USA
Raindog said:
How easily people are misled 16_sparrows! Here's me not able to afford a car or a new jacket or shoes, but on my head is a fedora, so I become rich and classy. I love it :)
I guess first impressions are everything in this world. Saddam Hussein wore a fedora, and he conned us for years into thinking he was a gentleman.
Hoodies are sweatshirts with hoods on, which youths wear. A tiny minority of youth wear them to hide their faces while committing crime.


Jeff.
Actually the U.S.A. CONNED Saddam to attack Kuwait, before saddam attacked, he consulted the U.S.A embassy and the embassador didn't indicate that the U.S.A. would resist if Iraq took over kuwait.
dickey02.jpg

card-saddam_hussein.jpg

hussein3.gif
 

TomMason

New in Town
Messages
36
Location
Santa Rosa, California
Hi,

This might be a good place/time to mention a book I discoved:

Hatless Jack: The President, the Fedora and the History of American Style

by Neil Steinberg, Plume, New York, 2004

Tom
 

indyjim

Familiar Face
Messages
86
My view is that here in the US, we have basically become a nation of slobs. Very few people, men and women, take pride in their appearance. When you don't have any pride or respect for yourself, you have none for anyone else or their property. I think the wearing of a fedora, for me anyway, says two things. I like the way I look and present myself. I have respect for myself and my appearance. Secondly I think it is a yearning for a bygone era, where life was a little simpler and less chaotic. Granted WWII was by no means simple or peaceful, but we had pride in ourselves, both individually and as a nation. I for one, would like to get that back. I recall that my mother would not think of going out in public unless she was wearing a dress, a hat and gloves. She cared about her appearance, and had a great deal of respect for herself and other people. She in turn was well liked and respected by them. I see women who now attend church in shorts and sandals, and some men who are just as bad. To me, that is disrespectful. I do wedding photography, and you would not believe how some people dress to attend the ceremony and reception. Again, that is disrespectful to the bride and groom. We further demonstrate our lack of respect for our own bodies by feeding it all of the fast food available today and refusing to take it out for a little exercise now and again. Just my 2 cents.
 

vespasian

One of the Regulars
Messages
175
Location
Kent, UK
I completely echo your sentiments jim. For me the fedora is a bit of expression saying, I hope, "gentleman". I dont go for the entire 30's 40's look as day to day it isnt the right feel for me, so the fedora and smart attire for work (suit when Im not wearing uniform) is an absolute must. For general day to day I sometimes go with fedora, sometimes not, but I do feel kind of different in it. A bit self conscious at present as Im not used to day to day wear, but it echoes back I think to a time and a generation I respect. My grandad was a perfect example of that. When not at work (he was a coalminer in Yorkshire) he wore shirts, slacks, a cravat and a flat cap which was the fedora of his class. He was as close to a gentleman as I have ever met. Infact I might even get a flat cap and use that sometimes. Todays youth ( I sound old and bitter :rolleyes: ) generally consider it style to be obnoxious. For me it isnt, its just pathetic.:rage:

Chavscum is a perfect site to highlight my point.
 

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