Help on choosing fabric to reline a cafe racer jacket..?

Discussion in 'Outerwear' started by lina, May 1, 2021.

  1. lina

    lina Practically Family

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    I am thinking of relining an old CR jacket, and need to figure out what material to use. I plan to use if for summer riding, so don't want a quilted lining. And I'd like it to be less "grabby" to put on than cotton drill. Basically, the sort of thinner fabric you find in the old Brooks, Kehoes, etc. I think of that fabric as "sateen," but realize I don't actually know much about it. Apparently sateen comes in cotton, rayon, or nylon versions.

    So, hoping for some crowd sourced knowledge here. Anyone know what is typically used in those old jackets? Anyone have suggestions for one of the above options? Basically looking for a lighter lining, not too shiny, easy to pull on and off, and reasonably hardwearing (though I won't actually be wearing the jacket all that much, so an emphasis on reasonably hardwearing).

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2021
  2. navetsea

    navetsea I'll Lock Up

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    cotton gabardine?
    same twill fabrics like drill but smoother/ lighter
    drill is usual cargo trousers
    gabardine is women trousers
     
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  3. handymike

    handymike I'll Lock Up

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    I think the Kehoe is lined in silk. That’s the best feeling one I’ve had. Brooks is some kind of synthetic polyester that isn’t as good IMHO.
     
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  4. yellowfever

    yellowfever One of the Regulars

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    Short answer: go for cotton (material) in a sateen (weave) as breathable and slippy. You’ll want it on the thinner side from what you say, but still thick enough to be reasonably durable. So you want at the very least around 200 GLM equivalent to 140 GSM or about 4 Oz/square yard. But maybe 225 GLM/160GSM/4.75 Oz/square yard is a safer staring point unless the leather is fairly lightweight. You should also consider reinforcements in a thicker more durable material (eg corduroy, moleskin, leather, suede) at typical wear points (hem, neck, underarms, sleeve ends) to make the thinner lining last better.

    Alternatively, rather than cotton go for viscose/rayon in a satin or twill weave. Also slippy and breathable, but you’ll need a stronger high quality (HWM) type and it will likely cost more. Don’t get nylon unless you want to lose weight via the ‘sitting in a sweat bag’ route (unless you go for nylon mesh so it can breathe).

    [NB sateen and satin are types of weave. Sateen when done with staple threads (eg cotton), satin for filament threads (silk and some man made fibres). They are noted for being shiny and slippy…]

    You may find this post I did about jacket re-lining helpful - be warned it’s v long, but should cover most info on re-lining you may want to know (and plenty you don’t!)

    https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...refurb-and-relining-tips.104074/#post-2806354
     
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  5. Will Zach

    Will Zach One Too Many

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  6. navetsea

    navetsea I'll Lock Up

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    you'll be sweating in that poly-satin. But I like the idea of cotton camo, just worrying over potential color transfer to clothes.
     
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  7. photo2u

    photo2u A-List Customer

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    Cotton is a simple choice. However, I truly like silk like 30momme.
     
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  8. Monitor

    Monitor

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    What @yellowfever said, cotton can be pretty much anything you want it to be. @lina, go to a fabric shop or look online and chose something made out of cotton. Old CR's all exclusively used nylon. I don't recall if I had ever seen one that wasn't lined in it. Buco's even advertised it as a huge plus back in the paper ads. But anyway, fabric store would be your best bet.
     
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  9. bn1966

    bn1966 Call Me a Cab

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    Following this as my early Brooks CR needs a reline. Wearing it for riding has finished off the original lining.
     
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  10. Will Zach

    Will Zach One Too Many

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    Yeah, Himel uses Japanese camo cotton twill. I don't think the color will transfer.
     
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  11. yellowfever

    yellowfever One of the Regulars

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    If it’s primarily for riding rather than casual wear and you don’t want much insulation in the jacket itself then nylon or polyester mesh in sufficient weight is a good choice - slippy, breathable (because of the holes in the mesh - avoid solid lining material in nylon and poly as they are not breathable!) and it should last well.

    My modern bike leathers use nylon or airtex polyester mesh in their linings for riding gear (VANSON, BKS) and they should know. No real warmth tho’ so you’ll need to layer under the jacket as appropriate to the weather/room for layering, or have other jackets for colder weather riding…
     
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  12. lina

    lina Practically Family

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    Appreciate all the good feedback! Need to go read then fuller post by @yellowfever , but sounds like cotton sateen may be the way to go.
     

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