Hemrajani SB narrow peak lapel

[adamgottschalk]

Here's a few shots of my most excellent sport coat made by Hemrajani and the folks at mytailor.com. (I'm also wearing one of their shirts.) This has narrow peak lapels, minimum shoulder padding, high arm holes, and is half-lined. Just perfect. Like my second skin. Next visit with Joe, I'll get some slacks to make this into a suit (and some more shirts, and a topcoat, and...).

Taking clues from Matt Deckard...

I couldn't be happier. Just exactly what I asked for. And it's been through dry cleaning with no bleeding buttons It even has my full name embroidered on the inside. And even being only half-lined, it's got the best pockets I've ever had, including a pen pocket, which is way cool. I dig it.

 

[Orgetorix]

Nice! Great sleeve length, and love the derby.

Until you get the trousers made to match, you might want to wear the jacket with trousers that contrast more. When I saw the walking stick picture at first, I thought it was a suit, but then I saw from the others that the jacket and trousers were slightly different shades. The almost-but-not-quite-matching look should generally be avoided. If you're going to wear it as a sportcoat, wear it like you intended it that way and not--the way so many folks do these days--like you can't be bothered to buy a proper suit and are trying to fake it hoping nobody will notice. You clearly have a lot more style than that.

Oh, and the jacket needs to be buttoned for the Deckard test to work properly.

 

[adamgottschalk]

Nice! Great sleeve length, and love the derby.

Until you get the trousers made to match, you might want to wear the jacket with trousers that contrast more. When I saw the walking stick picture at first, I thought it was a suit, but then I saw from the others that the jacket and trousers were slightly different shades. The almost-but-not-quite-matching look should generally be avoided. If you're going to wear it as a sportcoat, wear it like you intended it that way and not--the way so many folks do these days--like you can't be bothered to buy a proper suit and are trying to fake it hoping nobody will notice. You clearly have a lot more style than that.

Oh, and the jacket needs to be buttoned for the Deckard test to work properly.

Thanks for the kind comments. Yes, indeed, I agree about the pants. I tend to throw things together when I have a friend in the house willing to take pictures of me. (I wouldn't have worn that particular belt either, my "work" belt.)

If I remember correctly from that old thread, even with his jacket buttoned, the fellow with the nice gray suit did not see much if any rising up at all of his jacket with his arms extended. The last picture I posted, from behind, is with the jacket buttoned. Looking at that photo, and looking in the mirror from the front, I think the arm holes are just plain too big.

It looked to me as though the nice gray suit mentioned above was clinging more closely to its wearer (like the holes are actually smaller) than this one I have with "high" arm holes. It seems to me clear from the photo from behind that there's more material at the arm holes than needs to be there.

Which leads me to wondering why exactly Joe said "high arm holes?" when I said I wanted small arm holes. I'll get someone to take another photo with the jacket buttoned and arms extended, but I'm thinking if I got another one, I'd say I actually wanted small arm holes...

 

[Matt Deckard]

I'm glad you like the cut
The narrow lapels work well with that hat and tie.

"Deckard test"... I'm flattered.

I say higher armholes as it's the closeness to the armpit that matters.

Shoulders can be large making the armholes large, though it can still feel comfortable if the cut is right up under your armpit. That suit looks to have lower armholes. A buttoned look would be more telling.

I like it when I can stick a newpaper under my arm and it can be felt right in the pit. Saying small armholes would probably do the trick. I just wish tailors took the armhole measurement loke Jorge did in Long Beach when I had that suit made.

I hear alot of good things from Mytailor.com wearers. I need to give him a call tomorrow.

Here's my side by side high versus low... Blue is vintage.

I had the sleeves shortened on the khaki jacket... now they ride up much further when I do this...

 

[Mr. Rover]

Hey Matt,
It's been a while since those were posted. Do you have any pictures of yourself or Root in a a SB jacket performing the "Deckard Test"? I think the nature of how SB and DB fit (where the DB is more form-fitting in its nature) may affect the results- i.e., the billowing at the chest when lifting your arms. With the DB there is little to no movement of the lapels at the chest level, whereas on the SB there seems to be a great amount of tension. Would a vintage SB have similar effects?

 

[herringbonekid]

Hey Matt,
I think the nature of how SB and DB fit (where the DB is more form-fitting in its nature) may affect the results

that's exactly what i said ! Matt poo-pooed the idea, but i still say a DB wouldn't rise as much as a SB vintage.

 

[Orgetorix]

Hey Matt,
It's been a while since those were posted. Do you have any pictures of yourself or Root in a a SB jacket performing the "Deckard Test"? I think the nature of how SB and DB fit (where the DB is more form-fitting in its nature) may affect the results- i.e., the billowing at the chest when lifting your arms. With the DB there is little to no movement of the lapels at the chest level, whereas on the SB there seems to be a great amount of tension. Would a vintage SB have similar effects?

A vintage (high-armhole) SB would probably be somewhere between the two. More distortion than a vintage DB, but not as much as a modern low-cut SB. Perhaps a more reliable indicator of how well a jacket is cut is not whether the lapels billow out, but what happens to the collar when you move your arms. On a really well-cut jacket the collar will stay glued to the back of the neck, but on a poorly cut one it'll go bouncing around, creeping up the back of your neck and threatening to knock your hat into your eyes.

It's said that Astaire used to dance around the shop of his Savile Row tailor and then freeze in all sorts of strange poses in front of a mirror to check whether his collar stayed where it ought to.

 

[Mr. Rover]

Ahhhh....very good point, sir! That's the test that my modern custom DB doesn't quite pass.