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HNC Hatworks (formerly known as Agnoulita Hats)

GarySev

New in Town
Messages
10
Location
Olympia, WA. USA
A very unique and striking hat. The blue really pops. Now we are all going to be watching to see if you don’t immediately commission another hat. Like chips, it’s hard to have just one. :)
Thanks again. The truth be told, I will likely not be wearing this Homburg for a few more years. I purchased it for the year when I am fortunate enough to sit in the East within my Masonic Lodge. Which is why I selected the royal blue coloring for the hat's underbrim; in Freemasonry the home Lodge is also referred to as the Blue Lodge. So I envisioned that wearing this handsome Homburg with blue accent, with a dark suit and a royal blue long tie. . . I should look pretty sharp before my Brethren. That's the plan anyway. BUT, you are absolutely correct regarding the enticement of getting another hat! I am exceptionally pleased with what I personally perceive regarding the quality of this hat and its price point. I just doubt that I would ever wear this or any orther style of mens semi-dress hat; I'm more of a cabbie, Boston Scally hat wearer (to which I own several).
 
Messages
18,930
Location
Central California
Thanks again. The truth be told, I will likely not be wearing this Homburg for a few more years. I purchased it for the year when I am fortunate enough to sit in the East within my Masonic Lodge. Which is why I selected the royal blue coloring for the hat's underbrim; in Freemasonry the home Lodge is also referred to as the Blue Lodge. So I envisioned that wearing this handsome Homburg with blue accent, with a dark suit and a royal blue long tie. . . I should look pretty sharp before my Brethren. That's the plan anyway. BUT, you are absolutely correct regarding the enticement of getting another hat! I am exceptionally pleased with what I personally perceive regarding the quality of this hat and its price point. I just doubt that I would ever wear this or any orther style of mens semi-dress hat; I'm more of a cabbie, Boston Scally hat wearer (to which I own several).


I started out just wanting a couple homburgs, my first interest in hats. As the years went by I branched out to fedoras and westerns, and even a few berets. Who knows we’re any of us will end up? Brimmed hats are easier to wear than some think they will be. My only real issue is what to do with them when they aren’t on my head; the world isn’t very accommodating for the modern-day hat wearer.
 
Messages
10,379
Location
vancouver, canada
I started out just wanting a couple homburgs, my first interest in hats. As the years went by I branched out to fedoras and westerns, and even a few berets. Who knows we’re any of us will end up? Brimmed hats are easier to wear than some think they will be. My only real issue is what to do with them when they aren’t on my head; the world isn’t very accommodating for the modern-day hat wearer.
My wife (now a committed hat wearer too) have stopped going to fancy places where the expectation exists to remove the hat.

We only hang out in downmarket establishments where the 'right' thing to do is keep your hat on! We have not even returned to church since they closed down during covid and then as we are over 65 told us to stay home when they reopened.
 
Messages
18,930
Location
Central California
My wife (now a committed hat wearer too) have stopped going to fancy places where the expectation exists to remove the hat.

We only hang out in downmarket establishments where the 'right' thing to do is keep your hat on! We have not even returned to church since they closed down during covid and then as we are over 65 told us to stay home when they reopened.


It’s rare that I’m in an establishment where I feel the need to remove my hat…other than church and the theater that is. I work in the mountains in cowboy country and most all of them wear their hats in restaurants as there isn’t a good place to keep them otherwise. I live in a college town and my finances and my preferences have me in the downmarket establishments too. I do feel odd sometimes wearing a hat to church as it’s on for 20 seconds from my house to my car and then again another 20 seconds when I reverse the trip. 40 seconds…just seems odd. Maybe if I lived close enough to walk to church?
 

hambone71

Practically Family
Messages
661
Location
Roll Tide
Thanks again. The truth be told, I will likely not be wearing this Homburg for a few more years. I purchased it for the year when I am fortunate enough to sit in the East within my Masonic Lodge. Which is why I selected the royal blue coloring for the hat's underbrim; in Freemasonry the home Lodge is also referred to as the Blue Lodge. So I envisioned that wearing this handsome Homburg with blue accent, with a dark suit and a royal blue long tie. . . I should look pretty sharp before my Brethren. That's the plan anyway. BUT, you are absolutely correct regarding the enticement of getting another hat! I am exceptionally pleased with what I personally perceive regarding the quality of this hat and its price point. I just doubt that I would ever wear this or any orther style of mens semi-dress hat; I'm more of a cabbie, Boston Scally hat wearer (to which I own several).
Past master here! I believe that homburg will look sharp in the East! When I sat in the East, I was just getting started in hats and had some cheap brown fedora. I donated it to the lodge when my time was up. If I ever cycle back to the WM chair, I'll have much better choices to select from. Good to see a traveling man here. I haven't encountered any others here, to my knowledge.
 
Last edited:

hambone71

Practically Family
Messages
661
Location
Roll Tide
I received my first ever Angoulita a couple nights ago. I’m overall satisfied but there are some lessons learned. First off, I didn’t really know how supple “supple” would actually be on the brim. This brim is too soft and supple but not a deal breaker. I’ll know better next time. The felt is caribou, ribbon is 5/8” pecan. The ribbon is quite a bit longer than I expected and floppy as well. I like the proportions that I chose. 5 1/2” crown and 2 5/8” brim. I was going for something more reminiscent of a vintage Stratoliner, although this crown on this hat is probably a bit taller.

I think the hat looks good and other than my mistake of selecting a supple brim, I’m pleased. The quality is on par with the price point. This hat was purchased before their recent price increase.

Does anyone have any recommendations of a felt-friendly adhesive to use on the underside of the ribbon tassels to keep them in place?

Edited to add that the model is the Pandemator.
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B406E872-73DD-411E-86BC-FD1E787A49E3.jpeg
9C1CED9B-B2B6-4C0C-A774-FA099825C0F5.jpeg
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Messages
10,379
Location
vancouver, canada
I would be more inclined to use a very small piece of double sided fabric tape. This is less likely to damage the felt should you ever want to change the ribbon. I would also contact Mr P and ask if his ribbon easily ravels. If it is decent ribbon you should be able to snip off a bit of the ends and shorten to your liking. Cheap poly ribbon is a bitch as it frays so easily and badly.
 

hambone71

Practically Family
Messages
661
Location
Roll Tide
I would be more inclined to use a very small piece of double sided fabric tape. This is less likely to damage the felt should you ever want to change the ribbon. I would also contact Mr P and ask if his ribbon easily ravels. If it is decent ribbon you should be able to snip off a bit of the ends and shorten to your liking. Cheap poly ribbon is a bitch as it frays so easily and badly.
I think I'll try the double sided fabric tape as you suggested before I alter the ribbon. As it is now, the ribbon can flop around as I walk or as the wind blows. It may end up folded over backwards and upside down unbeknownst to me while I'm wearing it. Thank you sir!

I follow Mr. P on etsy as well. His actual website allows me to select options from a dropdown menu where etsy does not. Just a little more user friendly, I guess. The prices seem to be the same. He also sells on Amazon but the prices are higher even with free prime shipping.
 

Sincityhatcollector

Familiar Face
Messages
71
I love the choice of colors,
I received my first ever Angoulita a couple nights ago. I’m overall satisfied but there are some lessons learned. First off, I didn’t really know how supple “supple” would actually be on the brim. This brim is too soft and supple but not a deal breaker. I’ll know better next time. The felt is caribou, ribbon is 5/8” pecan. The ribbon is quite a bit longer than I expected and floppy as well. I like the proportions that I chose. 5 1/2” crown and 2 5/8” brim. I was going for something more reminiscent of a vintage Stratoliner, although this crown on this hat is probably a bit taller.

I think the hat looks good and other than my mistake of selecting a supple brim, I’m pleased. The quality is on par with the price point. This hat was purchased before their recent price increase.

Does anyone have any recommendations of a felt-friendly adhesive to use on the underside of the ribbon tassels to keep them in place?

Edited to add that the model is the Pandemator.
View attachment 505988 View attachment 505989 View attachment 505990 View attachment 505991 View attachment 505992 View attachment 505993 View attachment 505994
Like your choices of colors and the tassel of the ribbon. Glad to hear your happy with the hat.
 

hambone71

Practically Family
Messages
661
Location
Roll Tide
I love the choice of colors,

Like your choices of colors and the tassel of the ribbon. Glad to hear your happy with the hat.
I had initially ordered it in the pewter gray, similar to yours, with an ash ribbon. I flip flopped on Mr. P a handful of times, via email and pictures, before I settled on the colors you see.
 
Messages
10,379
Location
vancouver, canada
I think I'll try the double sided fabric tape as you suggested before I alter the ribbon. As it is now, the ribbon can flop around as I walk or as the wind blows. It may end up folded over backwards and upside down unbeknownst to me while I'm wearing it. Thank you sir!

I follow Mr. P on etsy as well. His actual website allows me to select options from a dropdown menu where etsy does not. Just a little more user friendly, I guess. The prices seem to be the same. He also sells on Amazon but the prices are higher even with free prime shipping.
I use the Etsy site to buy his Tonak felts. I have to buy in larger quantities in order to get the shipping cost in line so don't use him a lot.
 
Messages
18,930
Location
Central California
I received my first ever Angoulita a couple nights ago. I’m overall satisfied but there are some lessons learned. First off, I didn’t really know how supple “supple” would actually be on the brim. This brim is too soft and supple but not a deal breaker. I’ll know better next time. The felt is caribou, ribbon is 5/8” pecan. The ribbon is quite a bit longer than I expected and floppy as well. I like the proportions that I chose. 5 1/2” crown and 2 5/8” brim. I was going for something more reminiscent of a vintage Stratoliner, although this crown on this hat is probably a bit taller.

I think the hat looks good and other than my mistake of selecting a supple brim, I’m pleased. The quality is on par with the price point. This hat was purchased before their recent price increase.

Does anyone have any recommendations of a felt-friendly adhesive to use on the underside of the ribbon tassels to keep them in place?

Edited to add that the model is the Pandemator.
View attachment 505988 View attachment 505989 View attachment 505990 View attachment 505991 View attachment 505992 View attachment 505993 View attachment 505994


Nice looking hat. I’d trim the ribbon ends myself, but I also do t mind long ends flopping around…I really like them in some hats:

D88A2837-2185-4CB5-ABC8-368C4AE454AA.jpeg


Excuse the rain drops on the felt.
 

Hunk

New in Town
Messages
7
Has anyone here ordered a bowler/derby from Agnoulita? I have been browsing this tread and could not find any, but I might have missed it. I am contemplating ordering a Coke or an Oddjob, but it's always best to have an idea of what to expect quality wise.
 

Sincityhatcollector

Familiar Face
Messages
71
Has anyone here ordered a bowler/derby from Agnoulita? I have been browsing this tread and could not find any, but I might have missed it. I am contemplating ordering a Coke or an Oddjob, but it's always best to have an idea of what to expect quality wise.
I just received the Ascot and will be posting some pics in the next few days. I went with the default stiffness. It is fairly stiff but not uncomfortably so. The felt quality to me feels similar to the Akubra. I have been happy with his work and own several of his hats. I know he has been responsive to those that have had any quality issues in resolving the issues.
 

Hunk

New in Town
Messages
7
I just received the Ascot and will be posting some pics in the next few days. I went with the default stiffness. It is fairly stiff but not uncomfortably so. The felt quality to me feels similar to the Akubra. I have been happy with his work and own several of his hats. I know he has been responsive to those that have had any quality issues in resolving the issues.
Please do! I might go with the Ascot as well, but with a higher crown (5 1/2") as it does not seem possible for a higher crown than standard on the Oddjob (I sent the an e-mail a couple of hours ago, but don't expect any reply). I want a black high-crown bowler, and the Ascot seems more suitable for that than the Coke (but i also want a brown, more rounded bowler, so the Coke is also an option).

Regarding the stiffness, I was actually considering changing to "extra-stiff", as i want a bowler to hold its shape.
 

Rmccamey

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,655
Location
Central Texas
Mr. P makes some very nice hats but bowlers, even here on TFL, are a more specialized hat, so you won't see as many. And, no offense, but if you are going for a classic, vintage look, the Agnoulita bowlers miss the critical D'Orsay brim curl details. He (and most modern milliners) us the easier to construct [modern] homburg curl that is basically a symmetric curl around the perimeter of the brim. A D'Orsay curl has a very short "nubb" on the front and rear, in a vericle orientation parallel to the side of the crown. As the curl proceeds around the hat, the brim curl gets wider and folds over onto itself similar to an overwelt, almost perpendicular to the crown. For all practical purposes, there is not a machine that can do this, so it is done by hand which takes more time and effort and is, thus, more costly. Here is my Cambridge bowler (flat top bowler, coach hat, Oddjob, etc) and my brown bowler (modern hats by Northwest Hat Co) that show a little more of the D'Orsay brim detail. Here is also a picture of a 1920s Stetson bowler that show more of the brim detail.

While a stiff felt bowler is intended to be rather stiff or ridged, I'm not sure "extra stiff" is of much value IMO.

Again, Mr. P makes some wonderful hats. I just wanted to make sure you get what you expect to get.
Not to worry, however. Even Lock & Co., the original suppliers of bowler hats, has difficulty reproducing the D'Orsay curl today!

Please do! I might go with the Ascot as well, but with a higher crown (5 1/2") as it does not seem possible for a higher crown than standard on the Oddjob (I sent the an e-mail a couple of hours ago, but don't expect any reply). I want a black high-crown bowler, and the Ascot seems more suitable for that than the Coke (but i also want a brown, more rounded bowler, so the Coke is also an option).

Regarding the stiffness, I was actually considering changing to "extra-stiff", as i want a bowler to hold its shape.

20231029_162759.jpg 20231028_180020.jpg
 
Messages
18,930
Location
Central California
Mr. P makes some very nice hats but bowlers, even here on TFL, are a more specialized hat, so you won't see as many. And, no offense, but if you are going for a classic, vintage look, the Agnoulita bowlers miss the critical D'Orsay brim curl details. He (and most modern milliners) us the easier to construct [modern] homburg curl that is basically a symmetric curl around the perimeter of the brim. A D'Orsay curl has a very short "nubb" on the front and rear, in a vericle orientation parallel to the side of the crown. As the curl proceeds around the hat, the brim curl gets wider and folds over onto itself similar to an overwelt, almost perpendicular to the crown. For all practical purposes, there is not a machine that can do this, so it is done by hand which takes more time and effort and is, thus, more costly. Here is my Cambridge bowler (flat top bowler, coach hat, Oddjob, etc) and my brown bowler (modern hats by Northwest Hat Co) that show a little more of the D'Orsay brim detail. Here is also a picture of a 1920s Stetson bowler that show more of the brim detail.

While a stiff felt bowler is intended to be rather stiff or ridged, I'm not sure "extra stiff" is of much value IMO.

Again, Mr. P makes some wonderful hats. I just wanted to make sure you get what you expect to get.
Not to worry, however. Even Lock & Co., the original suppliers of bowler hats, has difficulty reproducing the D'Orsay curl today!



View attachment 567527 View attachment 567528


+1

I own several of Mr. P’s hats, but for me the D’Orsat curl is what makes a bowler a bowler…or a Derby, or a coke. To each their own, but the lack of a proper D’Orsay curl is a dealbreaker for me. I would be able to tell at 25 feet that the hat wasn’t “right” to my eye. I think this style of hat without the proper curl is a costume hat, or a tribute hat that isn’t even trying to pull off the elements of the original. Nothing wrong with that, but it just isn’t for me.



Some of the earlier homburgs also had a version of the D’Orsay curl, but those are hard to find and not cheap when you do. It takes special tools and skills to get that curl right, and few even attempt it. I’ve come close a couple times to asking Mike at Northwest to make me a Cambridge Bowler like yours…maybe one of these days.
 

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