Incredible HOLY GRAIL German 1930s Sportcoat

[The Wiser Hatter]

That is one great Jacket and for it to fit is just too much.

 

[Gin&Tonics]

That jacket rocks my socks. Your ensemble fits perfectly with it, although you look like you'd be roasting in this summer heat! Congrats on such an awesome find.

I saw an outstanding chalk stripe suit today that looked totally 30's, although the tags make me think it must be far more recent; it had outstanding heavy-duty material, beautiful cut, nice wide lapels and everything, but sadly it was nowhere near fitting me. ;_;

 

[Rudie]

Wonderful jacket. I wish it had fit me...

I'm super glad it didn't.

It's gonna be great in fall. Because of all the pleats large parts of it have three layers of tweed. It should be plenty warm without an overcoat.

 

[Chasseur]

Don't know if these wrinkles in the back are always there when I'm wearing it...

WOW!:eusa_clap

Great jacket and it looks wonderful on you.

 

[Mario]

I'm super glad it didn't.

Do tell!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

A very nice jacket. It has that slightly … odd … fit, particularly in the chest drape, that is frequently seen in the German illustrations of the time. I quite like the slight awkwardness of the fit; I think this was intended.

bk

 

[Vampyre Master]

Thanks to Mario I was recently able to acquire this incredible German 1930s sportcoat from the Cinetex guys in Berlin. This is a rare beast indeed. I never expected to find a 1930s belted back in my size. But this one is not only special because of its size. First, it's a German belted back. Second, it's not a half belt but a three quarter belt. Third, the belt is loose. Fourth, it has a pleated back. And fifth, it has even front pleats! I don't think it gets any better or more rare than this!

I'll post fit pics later when it's not as warm anymore.

Pleated pockets

The belt is attached to the side seam to prevent it from sliding down too much.

Period repairs

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-***QyY4O0xo/T_v_NOnUPmI/AAAAAAAAA1M/j-SezuryAmk/s800/IMG_0903.jpg

Oh my god I cant breath!!!
VM

 

[herringbonekid]

excellent, and very unusual jacket Rudie !

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

It's a wonderful jacket and a rare beast indeed. My girlfriend also wondered about the chest drape when we saw the first pictures but I think it looks much better when worn. I haven't noticed something like this on illustrations though. Do you have an example?

 

[herringbonekid]

i personally don't see anything odd about the chest... apart from the fact that it has pleats. which is unconventional, but that is the style.
here is a very similar jacket from a 1937 German catalogue:

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Thanks hbk for that image. I have a similar one somewhere that I was thinking of.

We'll have to disagree; I really find the chest drape/pleat/belt combination quite jarring. But in a good way, if that makes any sense. What it actually looks like, to me, is the kind of bust allowance you see in similar women's jackets. (Not a criticism, just trying to describe what I see).

bk

 

[Mario]

What it actually looks like, to me, is the kind of bust allowance you see in similar women's jackets.

Which is exactly what Flo's girlfriend said when they where visting Berlin. Those pleats gather quite a lot of fabric in the chest area.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Great minds, etc.

 

[herringbonekid]

the chest pleats are yet another Norfolk-derived feature. you see them on 1900 - teens suits as an alternative to the Norfolk 'strap' but usually facing in rather than out.

 

[Mario]

In the first photos of the jacket the effect looked a lot more severe, really like a woman's jacket. It's much less noticeable now.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I only really made note of it in the "being worn" pictures.

bk

 

[Mario]

This is the photo I was referring to: The chest area looks fuller and more pronounced here.

​

 

[Vampyre Master]

This is the photo I was referring to: The chest area looks fuller and more pronounced here.

​

I like the way the belt wraps round to the front
VM

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I didn't notice it on the "being worn" pictures. Rudie is quite tall and slender so there is no bellowing on the pleats. Maybe it would look "odd" for a man with a bigger size

 

[Mario]

I think Robby (the alterations tailor) did a good job.