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Incredible HOLY GRAIL German 1930s Sportcoat

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
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13,719
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USA
Don't know if these wrinkles in the back are always there when I'm wearing it...
4%2520am%252011-07-2012%2520um%252018.33%2520%25232.jpg
The wrinkles don't bother me nearly as much as the collar issue (the gap between the collar seam and the collar). Seems to be a rather common occurence on vintage jackets. IIRC, there was a thread around here some time ago that dealt with the various fixes which can be employed. Nonetheless, a lovely jacket.


IMG_0898.jpg
 

Rudie

Call Me a Cab
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2,069
Location
Berlin
Yeah, I noticed that collar issue, too. It doesn't bother me, though. Not with a vintage jacket like that. It would, if it was a jacket I had bought new or if it was made bespoke for me. But being the rare beast that it is I am not complaining at all. :)
 

Mario

I'll Lock Up
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4,664
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Little Istanbul, Berlin, Germany
I talked to the Cinetex guys just yesterday and they firmly believe that Rudie's jacket is actually from the late 40's/50's rather than the 30's - and those scans you posted really hit the nail on its head: 3/4 belt, chest & pocket pleats, lapels with rather low gorge - it's all there.
 
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Rudie

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2,069
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Berlin
Now who would have expected that. I thought the lapels and button stance were strange for 30s, but it never crossed my mind that it could be from the 40s or even 50s instead. Maybe it's 70s does 50s does 30s? :D
 
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herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
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6,016
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East Sussex, England
although there's not much difference between this 1937 image:

1937-04-03-Karstadt.jpg


and this:

textilwoche19509jacke2.jpg



...the later illustration does look slightly nearer to Rudies jacket going by the width of the chest pleats, so (taking into account that illustrations aren't very reliably accurate) i woud agree that late 40s is probably the safest bet. then again, the collar shape and gorge height in each are almost identical. it's a close call; it could still be 30s.
 

Flat Foot Floey

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,220
Location
Germany
Yes. I don't say it was from the 50s but the style lived on. Still super rare. I haven't seen a jacket like this in person before.
 

Qirrel

Practically Family
Messages
590
Location
The suburbs of Oslo, Norway
Jackets in Germany did get more ease in during the late 40s and all through the 50s, but it is hard to differentiate between a 30s jacket which is too large and a 50s jacket which is too small. (Too small and too large as in tighter or looser than intended for the original wearer.)
 

Mario

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,664
Location
Little Istanbul, Berlin, Germany
Yes. I don't say it was from the 50s but the style lived on. Still super rare. I haven't seen a jacket like this in person before.

Agreed. At least it's not one of those sloppy 70's-does-the-whatever jacket that I usually have to do with. ;)

That 1937 scan (obviously from Karstadt, an old German department store chain founded in 1881 with a huge store built in Berlin-Neukölln in 1929) is interesting in that it shows the prices in Reichsmark. A combination of sportcoat no. 6 and a pair of summer trousers (the higher priced ones) would cost around 245 Euros today. Same for the gabardine suit. Of course this is just a very rough approximation but I still found it interesting because I haven't seen many old German catalog scans with Reichsmark prices so far.
 

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