cookie
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 5,927
- Location
- Sydney Australia
Crossover Artists
Three women's designers try their hand at menswear
January 22, 2007—Success with womenswear doesn't always translate to the men's market, but three designers are managing the transition with flying colors—or, in some cases, basic blacks and whites—for spring.
Victor Glemaud: When asked about his design philosophy, the former assistant at Paco Rabanne says proudly, "I don't have one." Instead, the 28-year-old New York–based designer makes simple statements in bold colors for the Mod-minded dandy. Standouts from his spring collection, which will soon be available at Maxfield in L.A. and Beams in Tokyo, include high-waisted trousers in bright yellow and blue, snug pink and orange cardigans, and striped shirts with contrasting white collars (above left).
Bruno Pieters: A former assistant at Martin Margiela and Christian Lacroix, Pieters is starting small with a capsule collection heavy on knit sweaters (above center, chair not included) and suits cut so severely that one of Hedi Slimane's models might feel fat just looking at them. The Belgian plans on expanding his line to include a jewelry line and (slightly roomier, we hope) outerwear.
Blaak: In a collection they've dubbed "Boys Don't Cry," Blaak designers Aaron Sharif and Sachiko Okada riff on the button-front dress shirt (above right) as both a symbol of sartorial conformity and a blank canvas for individual expression. Swarovski crystals, delicate eyelet work, and floral appliqu?©s add a touch of Byronic flourish to the Brooks Brothers base, and they're planning to resurrect a Crombie-style overcoat, that vintage favorite of disaffected eighties youths, for the fall. Robert Smith would be proud.
Victor Glemaud at Maxfield, 8825 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (310) 274-8800, and Beams, 3-25-15 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, (81) 3-3470-9391, www.beams.co.jp. Blaak available at Surface 2 Air, 38 South Molton St., London, (011) 44-207-514-0063, and American Rag Cie, 2F 3-37-1 Shinjuku-Ku, Tokyo, (03) 5366-5425, www.americanragcie.co.jp. Bruno Pieters available at Seven NY, (646) 654-0156, www.sevennewyork.com.
— Lee Bailey
Three women's designers try their hand at menswear
January 22, 2007—Success with womenswear doesn't always translate to the men's market, but three designers are managing the transition with flying colors—or, in some cases, basic blacks and whites—for spring.
Victor Glemaud: When asked about his design philosophy, the former assistant at Paco Rabanne says proudly, "I don't have one." Instead, the 28-year-old New York–based designer makes simple statements in bold colors for the Mod-minded dandy. Standouts from his spring collection, which will soon be available at Maxfield in L.A. and Beams in Tokyo, include high-waisted trousers in bright yellow and blue, snug pink and orange cardigans, and striped shirts with contrasting white collars (above left).
Bruno Pieters: A former assistant at Martin Margiela and Christian Lacroix, Pieters is starting small with a capsule collection heavy on knit sweaters (above center, chair not included) and suits cut so severely that one of Hedi Slimane's models might feel fat just looking at them. The Belgian plans on expanding his line to include a jewelry line and (slightly roomier, we hope) outerwear.
Blaak: In a collection they've dubbed "Boys Don't Cry," Blaak designers Aaron Sharif and Sachiko Okada riff on the button-front dress shirt (above right) as both a symbol of sartorial conformity and a blank canvas for individual expression. Swarovski crystals, delicate eyelet work, and floral appliqu?©s add a touch of Byronic flourish to the Brooks Brothers base, and they're planning to resurrect a Crombie-style overcoat, that vintage favorite of disaffected eighties youths, for the fall. Robert Smith would be proud.
Victor Glemaud at Maxfield, 8825 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (310) 274-8800, and Beams, 3-25-15 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, (81) 3-3470-9391, www.beams.co.jp. Blaak available at Surface 2 Air, 38 South Molton St., London, (011) 44-207-514-0063, and American Rag Cie, 2F 3-37-1 Shinjuku-Ku, Tokyo, (03) 5366-5425, www.americanragcie.co.jp. Bruno Pieters available at Seven NY, (646) 654-0156, www.sevennewyork.com.
— Lee Bailey