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Leather jackets with action back/gussets sizing?

blobsterroll

One of the Regulars
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279
Bottom line up front/tl;dr: Do you take the gussets/full action back into account when buying a jacket? Should the action back stay flat until I try to move/hug someone?

Recently picked up a Double Helix Innovator (will post fit pics later). Great jacket and my GF loved the back pocket feature for riding. If I have one gig I noticed is that the jacket has a generic leather smell (like my GF's LV bag) as opposed to my other Double Helix jacket that has a strong, sweet smell that lingers to this day (maybe Snake Oil Provisions put some conditioner on it? maybe thats what happens when you ship it from LA to Europe in the summer inside a plastic bag within a box?)

With a weird caveman posture with shoulders rolled forward, I noticed that the majority of my weight is on my upper back/upper lats area. If my pectoral muscles is a size 38, my back muscles is a size 42. Around my chest measures 41" and 42" when flexed and inhaled.

I saw this jacket in person and was able to try on a size 40 vs size 42.

Size 40: Has a 43.3" chest around. So 2 inch play around the chest. Fits GREAT (imho) comfortable enough that I can use this for riding without the sleeves riding up. Can layer with a hoodie comfortably even when zipped all the way up. I dont know if its the pattern/maybe the armholes are bigger or rounder but in theory this jacket should feel too tight around the chest (based on old threads here I am supposed to have 4 inches around the chest) BUT it feels very generous. Thing of concern is that the action back seems to be extended by half an inch or so when I am wearing it (note: the action back still has more room to extend). Not sure if its because the leather have not settled yet but thats how it looks right now. Nitpicking, I know. Double Helix models look like they are wearing it like this as well (snug)

Size 42: Obviously feels large (45 in around the chest) and I feel like I am swimming in it. GF and store clerk says its too big. Action back stays flat. In theory this should be my size (+4 inch chest ease) but its big in every other measurement, length, arms, etc. and my waist area has A LOT of room. It has NO taper at all in the pattern so I would have to get it tailored.

In the same store they also have an RMC J24 in size 40 (new size), and I tried it on and it felt like a DH size 42... which is why I am very curious about this and made this thread. Is that how a D pocket/J24 supposed to or traditionally supposed to fit? .

Understand that the fit is subjective btw, just want this to also fit proper and curious. Wont have this feel weird when its broken in and the novelty is gone.

Attached are the suspects. Deviant (SEP 2022) Innovator (MAR 2023)
 

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blobsterroll

One of the Regulars
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279
Fit pics. The flannel would be what I will wear it with at the very most. Shirt, halfway zipped will be how I will wear it 90% of the time.
 

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blobsterroll

One of the Regulars
Messages
279
And attached is the Action Back stretch I speak of, its not much and I still have room to stretch it some more if I reach forward some. I am unsure if this is bad or not, or maybe I got the wrong size and that J24s are supposed to fit loose as hell.
 

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MrProper

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My comment is probably not very qualified, because I have never had a jacket with action back. But I would have the expectation that this should be closed as much as possible in a relaxed straight posture and only come apart when movement comes into play.
Closed, the jacket seems a bit tight at the top.
 

blobsterroll

One of the Regulars
Messages
279
My comment is probably not very qualified, because I have never had a jacket with action back. But I would have the expectation that this should be closed as much as possible in a relaxed straight posture and only come apart when movement comes into play.
Closed, the jacket seems a bit tight at the top.

Damn, I thought I found "my thing" when buying jackets (full action back), but yeah DH does have narrow shoulders. 17.5" shoulder, and 21.5" p2p, i believe the bottom is 19.5" or 18.5" I cant recall. Edit: the back is closed when I dont zip it all the way up, then 1" of the action back extends as I said in my OP. Edit: Edit: No, I take that back. Upon inspection the back remains open whatever the configuration is.

It really is not that tight though, I can pinch off around 1-3 inch of material (I will post a pic later) but that is probably because of the action back.
 

Brandrea33

One Too Many
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1,032
My comment is probably not very qualified, because I have never had a jacket with action back. But I would have the expectation that this should be closed as much as possible in a relaxed straight posture and only come apart when movement comes into play.
Closed, the jacket seems a bit tight at the top.
That would be my preference as well.
 

blobsterroll

One of the Regulars
Messages
279
Damn. Good that I am knowing this now while I can still deliberate about returning it. I thought I maybe in the clear since I dont dress in heritage/vintage style and generally have slimmer fitting shirts, low-mid rise jeans, etc.

Just want a nice quality jacket
 

blobsterroll

One of the Regulars
Messages
279
Fit looks good to me! Th AB is not pulling out at all with your arms down, or at least it doesn't appear to be in the photos.
Yeah I will take a pic with my arms up later. I still have AB material to spare in those pics. I think part of the problem is that it does not have an elastic unlike schott
 
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Yeah I will take a pic with my arms up later. I still have AB material to spare in those pics. I think part of the problem is that it does not have an elastic unlike schott
Oh for sure that's an issue. The elastic is essential for keeping them pulled in tight. Always a pet peeve of mine when the elastic blows out on a vintage piece. It's a relatively easy fix though.
 

blobsterroll

One of the Regulars
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279
Oh for sure that's an issue. The elastic is essential for keeping them pulled in tight. Always a pet peeve of mine when the elastic blows out on a vintage piece. It's a relatively easy fix though.

There is one, but I think its not as elasticy thats why the action back pops out permanently.

Here it is in all range of motions.
 

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blobsterroll

One of the Regulars
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279
This Sears Oakbrook also came through. Steerhide (I dont see it being horsehide)

Was owned by a Japanese woman, still smells like her perfume. Very hard to to zip up because the belly area is too tight. BUt the action back here is stretched to capacity.
 

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blobsterroll

One of the Regulars
Messages
279
BUMP

Any critique on the fit is appreciated. Maybe I need to size up or something, and get it tailored. At least there will be more room in the chest and the shoulder area.
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
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if you mainly wear your jacket open or half zipped I think your fit is good. perhaps roomier jacket is more functional etc, but if in reality you wear it like a blazer then looking good worn open is more important imo
 

blobsterroll

One of the Regulars
Messages
279
if you mainly wear your jacket open or half zipped I think your fit is good. perhaps roomier jacket is more functional etc, but if in reality you wear it like a blazer then looking good worn open is more important imo

That is what I do, with a shirt on most of the time
 

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