Leather Trucker Levi's / Lee / Type-whatever jackets!

[Tomwiththeweather]

Back in the 90s, this was exactly how the type III was worn: droopy shoulders, long body, relaxed fit.

I certainly take your point, but that's why I'm so confused about the fit discrepancy between the M and the L. The M is cut much more boxy and short; if I was a size smaller it would fit much more like a classic type 3 than like a droopy 90s one. But the L is, as you say, cut in that droopy 90s way, and if I were a size (or two) larger it would fit me decently well in that sense. There is a huge difference in shoulder, arm and front length between the two, but a relatively small difference in p2p, waist and back length. Makes me wonder if they didn't change the pattern from 1999 to 2000.

 

[LuddGang]

I certainly take your point, but that's why I'm so confused about the fit discrepancy between the M and the L. The M is cut much more boxy and short; if I was a size smaller it would fit much more like a classic type 3 than like a droopy 90s one. But the L is, as you say, cut in that droopy 90s way, and if I were a size (or two) larger it would fit me decently well in that sense. There is a huge difference in shoulder, arm and front length between the two, but a relatively small difference in p2p, waist and back length. Makes me wonder if they didn't change the pattern from 1999 to 2000.

Would you be able to let me know the p2p and length on the large? I took a punt on an XL recently and it was a great example but really too big, I had to move it on straight away. I've been on the lookout for an L but if the jumps between sizes are so extreme I wonder whether it would actually work.

 

[Tomwiththeweather]

Would you be able to let me know the p2p and length on the large? I took a punt on an XL recently and it was a great example but really too big, I had to move it on straight away. I've been on the lookout for an L but if the jumps between sizes are so extreme I wonder whether it would actually work.

Sure thing… mine measures:

Shoulder: 55cm
Pit to pit: 59cm
Sleeve: 63cm
Length: 63cm, with a 7cm front drop
Waist: 55cm

 

[LuddGang]

Sure thing… mine measures:

Shoulder: 55cm
Pit to pit: 59cm
Sleeve: 63cm
Length: 63cm, with a 7cm front drop
Waist: 55cm

Thanks! Slightly short on the sleeves but I could wear that. I'll keep an eye out.

 

[technovox]

Is the fit the same as regular denim levi's type 3s or smaller? I'm usually a medium in those, but the measurements on this large were 21.5 across the chest, which should work for me. I'm a bit worried the person mismeasured and this will be big on me.

How did the Large Levi LVC suede Type 3 work out with fit? And how does it fit compared to your Real McCoy's version?

 

[TacoBael]

I recently got this Freenote Cloth High Low in 1.4 mm Concierga Opera tobacco suede and the quality of this is absolutely blowing mind. The weight and texture is like nothing I have ever felt and the unlined interior with gorgeous taping and finishing (and a couple of sneaky pockets that perfectly fit a phone) really make this feel special.

The fit is perfect for my body type and far superior on me than the LVC and The Real Mccoy type 3s. I would even say the finishing exceeds TRM with all the beautiful interior seam taping. Anything that can match or beat TMC is really saying something. I would say the hide quality exceeds TRM too.

Bonus: Please enjoy me breaking in my new Clinch engineers in workout shorts.

 

[technovox]

I recently got this Freenote Cloth High Low in 1.4 mm Concierga Opera tobacco suede and the quality of this is absolutely blowing mind. The weight and texture is like nothing I have ever felt and the unlined interior with gorgeous taping and finishing (and a couple of sneaky pockets that perfectly fit a phone) really make this feel special.

The fit is perfect for my body type and far superior on me than the LVC and The Real Mccoy type 3s. I would even say the finishing exceeds TRM with all the beautiful interior seam taping. Anything that can match or beat TMC is really saying something. I would say the hide quality exceeds TMC too.

Bonus: Please enjoy me breaking in my new Clinch engineers in workout shorts.

View attachment 776425

Love those corduroy cuffs! Looks absolutely awesome!!

 

[barnabus]

So, wary of what happened to @Tomwiththeweather when he tried out another size in the good Gap trucker, I've now picked up a second one too - in another size.

The one I already had, that I worked on, washed and waxed, was a Medium. This one;

And you might have seen from another thread that I've picked up another, and the new one is a Small.

The seller's measurements suggested it might be too small, but from their photos I felt they might have mis-measured. It arrived today and it is a perfect t-shirt fit.

Literally perfect.

However there's work to do on this one too, as I also sussed from the seller's pictures that there was a grease or oil stain on the front of the jacket. Thus;

But it somehow doesn't look anything like as obvious in the flesh as it does in this picture.

And not to worry anyway because it's going in the wash in a few days when the forecast suggests sunshine and I can dry it outside.

Also, this new one was so embarrassingly cheap that if it doesn't clean up sufficiently I can just throw it away.

So. A real rollercoaster, I think you'll agree. I'll take some new fit pics later, when I have a few minutes.

 

[Tomwiththeweather]

So, wary of what happened to @Tomwiththeweather when he tried out another size in the good Gap trucker, I've now picked up a second one too - in another size.

The one I already had, that I worked on, washed and waxed, was a Medium. This one;

View attachment 777493

And you might have seen from another thread that I've picked up another, and the new one is a Small.

The seller's measurements suggested it might be too small, but from their photos I felt they might have mis-measured. It arrived today and it is a perfect t-shirt fit.

Literally perfect.

However there's work to do on this one too, as I also sussed from the seller's pictures that there was a grease or oil stain on the front of the jacket. Thus;

View attachment 777494

But it somehow doesn't look anything like as obvious in the flesh as it does in this picture.

And not to worry anyway because it's going in the wash in a few days when the forecast suggests sunshine and I can dry it outside.

Also, this new one was so embarrassingly cheap that if it doesn't clean up sufficiently I can just throw it away.

So. A real rollercoaster, I think you'll agree. I'll take some new fit pics later, when I have a few minutes.

Will be interesting to compare the fit between M and S in these.

 

[barnabus]

Will be interesting to compare the fit between M and S in these.

Here's a couple of terrible quick pictures to show the fit. I'll do better when I've got more time, and I'll also take some measurements to compare the sizes of the Small and Medium.

 

[Tomwiththeweather]

Here's a couple of terrible quick pictures to show the fit. I'll do better when I've got more time, and I'll also take some measurements to compare the sizes of the Small and Medium.

View attachment 777538

View attachment 777539

Looks like a perfect fit to me! Good luck with the cleaning process.

 

[omega1848]

Looks good for me as welll, fit is good, isn't it?

 

[barnabus]

Here's where I am with the "new", Small Gap jacket. Please note; I'm well aware that what I'm doing is terrible and I shouldn't, but I've done it before and I'll do it again.

So.

As a reminder, here's the seller's pictures that show where we started.

Quite a visible, large grease stain on the lower front of the jacket. I saw this in the listing pictures, and although the seller didn't mention anything about it, the jacket was inexpensive enough to take a chance on.

Once it arrived I first checked the fit of course, taking a couple of terrible low-quality photos just to see.

I already have this jacket in a Medium, which fits very nicely over a sweater or hoodie, but the nagging question remained - how would the smaller size fit?

And IMO it fits excellently, exactly what I was hoping for as a t-shirt fit.

So, what to do about the grease stain? Well I sought advice here in another thread, where helpful members cautioned to take things slowly and gently.

I have not.

I put the jacket in the washing machine, with ordinary laundry detergent at 30 degrees.

I am aware of the risks of this and I'm not bothered. As I said, if it's all a disaster I'll just throw the jacket away.

So I washed it this morning and I've put it outside to dry. I can do this with the assistance of Manuel, my mannequin. I covered Manuel with a plastic bag to ensure no water soaked into him, and then posed the jacket on him in a dashing, as-worn situation. This allows me to train the collar shape as meticulously as I want. I also stuffed the sleeves with towels, which ensures they dry "in the round".

The weather is perfect this morning - bright sunshine and a stiff breeze, but not actually very warm.

Here's Manuel doing his duty.

So, that's the jacket utterly soaking, and positioned how I want it. As I said, the weather is perfect, so within an hour the jacket has started to dry out noticeably.

It looks promising across the front where the grease stain was initially visible, and I'm hopeful that when it's fully dried out that will have gone.

Once the jacket is fully dried, experience tells me that it will be stiff and rigid, and very dry to the touch. As well as visually much lighter in appearance as the wash removes oils from the hide. So at that stage I will wear it around the house a bit until it relaxes and starts to be mobile again. Then it will be time to condition the leather and wax it.

You may be aghast at my behaviour, and I understand that. I probably wouldn't do this with a new jacket*, or anything remotely valuable.

So don't try this at home.

I'll update this thread over time as I carry on.

*I've just remembered, I have done this with a new jacket.

 

[barnabus]

Sure thing… mine measures:

Shoulder: 55cm
Pit to pit: 59cm
Sleeve: 63cm
Length: 63cm, with a 7cm front drop
Waist: 55cm

Another thing I need to do is add the measurements for the Small and Medium sizes. As people have noted, these jackets seem to be all over the place, and measurements might be helpful.

 

[Tomwiththeweather]

I put the jacket in the washing machine, with ordinary laundry detergent at 30 degrees.

I did the exact same with my size M. When I received it, it absolutely reeked of ashtray. A normal wash cycle (front loading machine) got rid of 90% of the smell, and the post-wash conditioning got rid of the rest. Problem solved, jacket in great condition.

 

[barnabus]

The weather turned. From perfect jacket-drying conditions, I had to bring Manuel in to rescue him from a hailstorm. And after a brief snow flurry, he's back outside again.

In the sunshine, and much drier now, it appears as though the wash didn't get rid of all the grease.

Not to worry though. I've got some neatsfoot oil to treat the whole jacket with, which I think might blend the darker stain away. Then I'll wax it and polish it over the top of that.

 

[barnabus]

Sure thing… mine measures:

Shoulder: 55cm
Pit to pit: 59cm
Sleeve: 63cm
Length: 63cm, with a 7cm front drop
Waist: 55cm

For reference: this ^ is @Tomwiththeweather 's Large.

And these are the measurements of my Medium;

Shoulder: 52cm / 20.5"
Pit to pit: 56cm / 22"
Sleeve: 60cm / 23"
Length: 59cm / 23.25", with 5cm / 2" front drop
Waist: 51cm / 20"

 

[barnabus]

I'll get some numbers off the Small once it's fully dried out.

 

[barnabus]

It's dried out fully now. Next step, neatsfoot oil.

 

[barnabus]

Ready for some neatsfoot oil.

Which I tested somewhere first. It looks like it will initially darken the leather quite a bit, but I expect that to reduce as the oil sinks in over night.